Forums: Climbing Information: General:
Cut Rope
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for General

Premier Sponsor:

 


passusa


Jun 11, 2007, 8:58 AM
Post #1 of 18 (1050 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 11, 2007
Posts: 10

Cut Rope
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I currently go to climb at a place where there are 35 to 40 feet climbs. I was thinking on buy a new 30 meter rope since it should be enough. I could also cut my current 60 meter rope in half. I want to do this so I can setup several routes instead of just one.

I wanted to see some opinions on this matter...

Thanks


Partner angry


Jun 11, 2007, 9:06 AM
Post #2 of 18 (1036 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 21, 2003
Posts: 8405

Re: [passusa] Cut Rope [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Don't do it, unless you either have a new other rope that you'll use everywhere else or you don't plan on climbing anywhere else for the life of your rope, 2-4 years.


dingus


Jun 11, 2007, 9:06 AM
Post #3 of 18 (1032 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398

Re: [passusa] Cut Rope [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

My opinion - if you cut your rope in half you will have exactly two shorter ropes of equal length.

Its just an opinion mind you. Who but the Shadow really knows???

DMT


king_rat


Jun 11, 2007, 9:08 AM
Post #4 of 18 (1025 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 20, 2005
Posts: 365

Re: [passusa] Cut Rope [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I donít see any problem if thatís what you want to do. Iíve got a rope that got damaged, so I ended up cutting it down to 30m and I now use it for the gym, which its perfect for.

Though cutting a perfectly good rope in half seems a bit of a waste, with a 60m rope you can climb anywhere, with a 30m rope you're limiting your climbing activities to a particular places.

Guess what Iím saying is if your only going to be climbing at this one venue then fine, but if you want to climb else where then you are going to have to buy another full length rope.


passusa


Jun 11, 2007, 9:10 AM
Post #5 of 18 (1018 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 11, 2007
Posts: 10

Re: [king_rat] Cut Rope [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Well I was thinking on buying a new 60 meter rope anyways. So I was going to cut my current one in half...

Please reply...


fulton


Jun 11, 2007, 9:27 AM
Post #6 of 18 (980 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 26, 2004
Posts: 210

Re: [passusa] Cut Rope [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I think the idea of having a shorter rope for shorter climbs is a perfectly logical idea.

I have a shorty rope, about 28 meters, and reguarly use it for short routes, indoor climbing, and occasionally coping with a top-rope anchor dilemmas.

Cutting your rope is a bad idea, the fact of the matter is that every climber worth his or her salt should own at least one 60 meter rope.

Instead, I'd recommend buying a short rope. You can find "remnants" (just like carpet remnants) left over from larger (wholesale) spools of rope at some local climbing shops and definately the online retailers.
Another good bet is going to a climbing gym--they usually have large spools of rope and may sell you a length at the retail price.

I bet it will cost you $70 bucks or so for a 30 meters of good 10mm dynamic - but its worth it.

But when climbing on a shorty, especially when leading short routes, make sure you belayer's end has a knot tied in it, because of the increased risks of human error.


overlord


Jun 11, 2007, 9:28 AM
Post #7 of 18 (976 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120

Re: [passusa] Cut Rope [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

passusa wrote:
Well I was thinking on buying a new 60 meter rope anyways. So I was going to cut my current one in half...

Please reply...

if youre buying a new rope AND need two 30m ropes for whatever, sure go ahead and cut it. preferably with a heated knife. and make sure you tape the ends.

but otherwise, one 60m rope is much better than 2 30m ones 99% of the time. 30m is just too short for being the only rope in your inventory (but since you are getting a new one, this is moot).


bent_gate


Jun 11, 2007, 9:37 AM
Post #8 of 18 (956 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 1, 2004
Posts: 2620

Re: [dingus] Cut Rope [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

dingus wrote:
My opinion - if you cut your rope in half you will have exactly two shorter ropes of equal length.

Its just an opinion mind you. Who but the Shadow really knows???

DMT

And another opinion, I prefer a Transverse Cut:



vs. a Longitudinal Cut:




(This post was edited by bent_gate on Jun 12, 2007, 8:03 AM)
Attachments: transverse_cut.png (6.52 KB)
  Longitudinal_cut.png (3.67 KB)


climbinwv


Jun 11, 2007, 9:41 AM
Post #9 of 18 (945 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 18, 2007
Posts: 140

Re: [passusa] Cut Rope [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I am in basically the same situation as you. My local crag (coopers rock, wv) is mostly 30-40 footers with some higer stuff. I cut an older 70m rope in half to 1. cut weight on my pack 2. allow multiple setups without having to break out one of my newer ropes. It's not a bad idea...as long as you have other ropes. Additionally, i needed a dynamic with alpine butterfly's to back-up my solo toproping, which this is perfect for. The only thing that is scary is how fast a good knife cuts through a rope.


markc


Jun 11, 2007, 9:56 AM
Post #10 of 18 (918 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 21, 2003
Posts: 2481

Re: [fulton] Cut Rope [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

fulton wrote:
I bet it will cost you $70 bucks or so for a 30 meters of good 10mm dynamic - but its worth it.

But when climbing on a shorty, especially when leading short routes, make sure you belayer's end has a knot tied in it, because of the increased risks of human error.

Good advice, and it looks like you can get a 91' line for $55 from Gear Express. Their short ropes are around 60Ę per foot. Unless you have a more compelling reason to chop your old line, buy a shorty and use both.

Every now and then I see a couple guys that use one 60m rope to rig two routes right next to each other. They basically form a capital 'M' with their rope, with climbers climbing on each end. On the routes I'm thinking of, there is sufficient slack for a good sized pile in between the routes. You don't want to do that unless you're absolutely certain you won't impact the other belayer and climber. (It's rare that I'd want to rig two ropes right next to each other, and I have more than enough ropes. YMMV.)


blueeyedclimber


Jun 11, 2007, 11:45 AM
Post #11 of 18 (857 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602

Re: [dingus] Cut Rope [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

dingus wrote:
My opinion - if you cut your rope in half you will have exactly two shorter ropes of equal length.

Its just an opinion mind you. Who but the Shadow really knows???

DMT

This is just semantics, really, but that's not an opinion, that's fact. If you cut something in half, you have two equals. Yes, we know that. So, what's your opinion?

Josh


donald949


Jun 11, 2007, 2:40 PM
Post #12 of 18 (784 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 24, 2007
Posts: 11455

Re: [blueeyedclimber] Cut Rope [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

After I got my second 50m rope, and my brother had a third rope, I cut my first rope in two. Different lengths for different uses. It was being retired from leading.
I took it down to REI and had them cut it on their hot knife. They did it for free, I just went in and asked them nicely first.
Don


stymingersfink


Jun 11, 2007, 3:06 PM
Post #13 of 18 (770 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250

Re: [blueeyedclimber] Cut Rope [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

blueeyedclimber wrote:
dingus wrote:
My opinion - if you cut your rope in half you will have exactly two shorter ropes of equal length.

Its just an opinion mind you. Who but the Shadow really knows???

DMT

This is just semantics, really, but that's not an opinion, that's fact. If you cut something in half, you have two equals. Yes, we know that. So, what's your opinion?

Josh
upon closer inspection, you may find that dingus has in fact stated an opinion, depending on the precision of the measuring and cutting devices. Probability is high for having two two separate ropes, probability is very low that they would indeed be exactly the same length. This is not taking into account the previous posters opinion that it would provide more utility to cut transversely vs. longitudinally.

IMO, I would resist the temptation to re-section the rope into smaller units, even after the additional chronologically superior product has been secured to the GWIT's* posession. Cool



*Gear Whore In Training


pylonhead


Jun 11, 2007, 3:12 PM
Post #14 of 18 (762 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 9, 2004
Posts: 283

Re: [blueeyedclimber] Cut Rope [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

blueeyedclimber wrote:
dingus wrote:
My opinion - if you cut your rope in half you will have exactly two shorter ropes of equal length.

Its just an opinion mind you. Who but the Shadow really knows???

DMT

This is just semantics, really, but that's not an opinion, that's fact. If you cut something in half, you have two equals. Yes, we know that. So, what's your opinion?

Josh

In my opinion, some people lack a sense of humor.

Wait, maybe that's a fact too? This is harder than I thought.


gunkiemike


Jun 11, 2007, 3:23 PM
Post #15 of 18 (748 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 1, 2002
Posts: 2266

Re: [markc] Cut Rope [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

markc wrote:
Every now and then I see a couple guys that use one 60m rope to rig two routes right next to each other. They basically form a capital 'M' with their rope, with climbers climbing on each end.

Yup...I do this quite a bit. Two TR anchors, one rope, double the pleasure.


blueeyedclimber


Jun 12, 2007, 6:49 AM
Post #16 of 18 (634 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602

Re: [pylonhead] Cut Rope [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

pylonhead wrote:
blueeyedclimber wrote:
dingus wrote:
My opinion - if you cut your rope in half you will have exactly two shorter ropes of equal length.

Its just an opinion mind you. Who but the Shadow really knows???

DMT

This is just semantics, really, but that's not an opinion, that's fact. If you cut something in half, you have two equals. Yes, we know that. So, what's your opinion?

Josh

In my opinion, some people lack a sense of humor.

Wait, maybe that's a fact too? This is harder than I thought.

That's a fact too. You, see, EVERYONE thinks they have a good sense of humor, but it is an impossibility for everyone to HAVE a good sense of humor. If EVERYONE HAD a good sense of humor, then there would be no one for US to make fun of. Unless I don't have a good sense of humor. Wait a second...what are you implying? Mad


king_rat


Jun 12, 2007, 7:45 AM
Post #17 of 18 (582 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 20, 2005
Posts: 365

Re: [passusa] Cut Rope [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

passusa wrote:
Well I was thinking on buying a new 60 meter rope anyways. So I was going to cut my current one in half...

Please reply...

In that case it seems a good use of an old rope,Wink


zionvier


Jun 12, 2007, 1:20 PM
Post #18 of 18 (503 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 17, 2003
Posts: 125

Re: [king_rat] Cut Rope [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Just something to think about. Since we don't know what condition your old rope is in, be sure to inspect your "old rope" well. If you're thinking of getting a new 60m rope, then I'd personally assume that the old rope is around the time to get retired. Granted you're intended use is top roping, so it'll have a little more life in it for that, but even those short routes must have some leading going on and that "old rope" might get used for that purpose on occasion too?

1) If you've used it for a lot of top roping already, then realize that the middle of the rope has taken a lot of abusing getting pulled down with all the weight of the rope on it. So if you cut it in half, those are now the ends.... possibly the end you're going to tie in with. So do the math, warn sheathing + figure 8. Under strength tests a brand new rope will typically fail where there is a knot in it, if that point is already a weaker area of the rope = splat

2) If it was mainly a leading rope and not top rope previously, then did you tend to use one side of the rope to tie into? Did you mainly only climb <30m routes like that? Is there one half of that 60m rope that has been stretched and abused more than the other half because of falling?

I'm sure there must be other things to think of perhaps some other people could chime in, but I should get back to doing work... otherwise I can't afford a new rope either when I need one. :)

oh, and by the way... This is all assuming you're cutting it horizontally.

-Pete


Forums : Climbing Information : General

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook