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uzibear
Jun 11, 2007, 9:41 PM
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sadly, i'm not joking
she got the rack, i got my MRI, CT, and ECO cardiogram paid for for my lyme disease; sweet, eh?
anyway, i've been climbing for awhile, mostly trad in yosemite, joshua tree, needles etc. moderate up to 5.10 or so
i used BD cams and metolius tcu's and stoppers; never really warmed to hex's though i used them sometimes
so...... i need a new rack, and i'd like it if i could keep things affordable; i liked the range of the bd's but they are heavy, and i might rather carry more pieces than fewer at more range
so, i need a rack, and the cams are really the big question, unless there's some new tech in stoppers i don't know about :) i bet not
i seem to remember reading about trango cams being affordable? anyway, i just want a good rack; when i bought my bd cams i had a company discount but no longer
suggestions? i'm starting from scratch again; i just got my harness, shoes and my truck out of the divorce........................ok now you can laugh :) peace
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el_layclimber
Jun 11, 2007, 9:46 PM
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Well, that's pretty sad, but then again you have a good excuse to buy a whole new rack. When you run into her at the crag, you can laugh at her with her old ratty gear, while you will have new shiny gear.
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j_ung
Jun 11, 2007, 9:47 PM
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Will we soon see a post from someone saying, "My marriage is over, but I scored the rack"? 
Okay, now that's done... I'm a pretty big Metolius user. TCUs and Power Cams form the backbone of my rack. They might be right up your alley -- inexpensive, bomber, tough as nails and VERY light. Ultra light, even.
(This post was edited by j_ung on Jun 11, 2007, 9:48 PM)
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hosh
Jun 11, 2007, 9:49 PM
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Are you looking to buy used gear or for opinions on good gear at good prices? Honestly, if you're concerned about weight and price, Forged Friends are sweet.
hosh.
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uzibear
Jun 11, 2007, 9:52 PM
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yes, i like the metolious as well, have used them several times; the camming action seems very secure if you follow me, i believe they advertise that as well, about having more holding power?
it would be good to only have, say two different types of cams, so as not to get too confused
with metolious i could even just get metolious cams and tcu's, or perhaps some aliens, never used aliens but have wanted to try them
i've been out of climbing for awhile; is there anything new and interesting in the gear world?
i figure i'll just get some cams, small/tcu cams, and stoppers
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uzibear
Jun 11, 2007, 9:55 PM
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hosh wrote: Are you looking to buy used gear or for opinions on good gear at good prices? Honestly, if you're concerned about weight and price, Forged Friends are sweet. hosh.
definite NO on the forged; don't like them in horizontal cracks or tricky situations
i don't buy used gear; i would only buy it from a friend who knows the exact history of each piece, so no used gear
ps: this forum design is kinda frustrating; not the best webdesign for posting, ackward
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ja1484
Jun 11, 2007, 10:08 PM
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uzibear wrote: hosh wrote: Are you looking to buy used gear or for opinions on good gear at good prices? Honestly, if you're concerned about weight and price, Forged Friends are sweet. hosh. definite NO on the forged; don't like them in horizontal cracks or tricky situations
Tapers don't work to well in parallel cracks either, y'know.
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billcoe_
Jun 11, 2007, 10:19 PM
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The best revenge is to get a young girlfriend that has a GREAT rack.
Should shut the ex up.
Good luck.
Bill
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snowjunkie
Jun 11, 2007, 10:37 PM
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uzibear wrote: yes, i like the metolious as well, have used them several times...
I'd put in another vote for the Metolius cams. I build my whole rack on them... 1-8 UL PowerCams and 00,0 TCU's and absolutely love them. Besides the weight (everyone who uses/sees my rack is jealous that it's so light weight) they are pretty reasonably priced and certainly cheaper then camalots or aliens. They place well and I've never had any problems with them walking.
(This post was edited by snowjunkie on Jun 11, 2007, 10:39 PM)
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fulton
Jun 11, 2007, 11:35 PM
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Lets look at the substance of this post:
uzibear wrote: i've been climbing for awhile, mostly trad in yosemite, joshua tree, needles etc. moderate up to 5.10 or so
uzibear wrote: i used BD cams and metolius tcu's and stoppers;
uzibear wrote: so...... i need a new rack, and
uzibear wrote: suggestions? i'm starting from scratch again;
How is it that someone who climb's 5.10 trad doesn't know what kind of gear he likes? This doesn't make any sense to me.
Answer to your question: there have been no qunatum leaps in climbing technology, most of us still climb on TCUs and Camalots and...
Oh! but we stopped buying Aliens!
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uzibear
Jun 11, 2007, 11:47 PM
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ja1484 wrote: uzibear wrote: hosh wrote: Are you looking to buy used gear or for opinions on good gear at good prices? Honestly, if you're concerned about weight and price, Forged Friends are sweet. hosh. definite NO on the forged; don't like them in horizontal cracks or tricky situations Tapers don't work to well in parallel cracks either, y'know.
of course not; you are not making any sense
i don't like forged cams because without a flexible stem placements are limited; i have used forged friends before once or twice with my friends rack
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uzibear
Jun 11, 2007, 11:49 PM
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fulton wrote: Lets look at the substance of this post: uzibear wrote: i've been climbing for awhile, mostly trad in yosemite, joshua tree, needles etc. moderate up to 5.10 or souzibear wrote: i used BD cams and metolius tcu's and stoppers; uzibear wrote: so...... i need a new rack, and uzibear wrote: suggestions? i'm starting from scratch again; How is it that someone who climb's 5.10 trad doesn't know what kind of gear he likes? This doesn't make any sense to me. Answer to your question: there have been no qunatum leaps in climbing technology, most of us still climb on TCUs and Camalots and... Oh! but we stopped buying Aliens!
ah yes, that would be confusing; i haven't climbed in years; i've been seriously ill for awhile now; haven't climbed since.........let's see... about 2002; should have mentioned that i'm basically "starting over" all over again; i have climbing experience, but it was long ago and i will have to re-learn some things
hence i've been out of the loop and don't know much about new gear
in yosemite i've climbed serenity crack, mr.natural, waverly wafer (man that was hard), katchy, and some other moderates, mostly follwing
in needles: thin ice, magic dragon, white punks on dope
jtree: bird of fire, bunch of random stuff i forget
and lots of bouldering, moderates, sport etc. in socal; so i'm not pulling your leg, but i really have been out of it for about 5 years and thus unknowledgable about recent tech advances (though it seems there aren't any : ) Yeah ) and of course i'll be starting again at the 5-minus's : )
(This post was edited by uzibear on Jun 11, 2007, 11:56 PM)
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uzibear
Jun 11, 2007, 11:52 PM
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and why no aliens? do they no longer make them?
here's a better direct question: can i get deals on a large set of cams? a pack deal of some sort? any suggestions where to buy? perhaps online? it would help if i can save some cash
i'll be needing a rope, cams, stoppers, assorted biners and webbing, runners etc.
all i have from the old days are a harness, shoes, and a little bit of webbing; perhaps an atc somewhere : )
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rockguide
Jun 12, 2007, 12:21 AM
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fulton wrote: Lets look at the substance of this post: uzibear wrote: i've been climbing for awhile, mostly trad in yosemite, joshua tree, needles etc. moderate up to 5.10 or souzibear wrote: i used BD cams and metolius tcu's and stoppers; uzibear wrote: so...... i need a new rack, and uzibear wrote: suggestions? i'm starting from scratch again; How is it that someone who climb's 5.10 trad doesn't know what kind of gear he likes? This doesn't make any sense to me. Answer to your question: there have been no qunatum leaps in climbing technology, most of us still climb on TCUs and Camalots and... Oh! but we stopped buying Aliens!
I was curious too ... don't guys coming out of relationships usually solo? No need for a rack there.
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ja1484
Jun 12, 2007, 12:37 AM
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uzibear wrote: ja1484 wrote: uzibear wrote: hosh wrote: Are you looking to buy used gear or for opinions on good gear at good prices? Honestly, if you're concerned about weight and price, Forged Friends are sweet. hosh. definite NO on the forged; don't like them in horizontal cracks or tricky situations Tapers don't work to well in parallel cracks either, y'know. of course not; you are not making any sense i don't like forged cams because without a flexible stem placements are limited; i have used forged friends before once or twice with my friends rack
Sigh...the point I was making was that forged friends don't work in horizontal cracks because they aren't made to, just like tapers in parallel cracks.
The point is, this doesn't make them bad. They have many advantages actually, and with a gunks tie off, horizontals really aren't much of a problem, especially with the new generation.
All I'm saying: Fair enough if you don't want 'em on your rack, but don't let the fact that they're not flexible stem do it. A lot of things don't work in a lot of situations (except Tri-Cams, which seem to f*cking fit anywhere  ), but in other circumstances...
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zeke_sf
Jun 12, 2007, 12:39 AM
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Do you really need the rack? One of this site's good features is the "partners" button located above. That way you could check out a bunch of different equipment (with different partners) and, who knows, maybe even the partner with the perfect "rack" others were alluding to. Although you probably shouldn't be creepy before honing your skills again. Then it's allright.
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cintune
Jun 12, 2007, 12:46 AM
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Yep, try tricams. Good way to "start over" if you haven't used them before.
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catskillshiker
Jun 12, 2007, 2:16 AM
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uzibear wrote: and why no aliens? do they no longer make them? here's a better direct question: can i get deals on a large set of cams? a pack deal of some sort? any suggestions where to buy? perhaps online? it would help if i can save some cash i'll be needing a rope, cams, stoppers, assorted biners and webbing, runners etc. all i have from the old days are a harness, shoes, and a little bit of webbing; perhaps an atc somewhere : )
Aliens started blowing up. Do a search for alien failure and you will see.
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petsfed
Jun 12, 2007, 2:41 AM
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uzibear wrote: i used BD cams and metolius tcu's and stoppers; never really warmed to hex's though i used them sometimes so...... i need a new rack, and i'd like it if i could keep things affordable; i liked the range of the bd's but they are heavy, and i might rather carry more pieces than fewer at more range
You have been out of the loop. The new Camalots aren't too much heavier than the average metolius cam of similar size. Much pricier though. If you liked them, go with them again. The weight savings from the old camalots is substantial.
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tallsailor
Jun 12, 2007, 3:22 AM
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I have forged friends and the larger sizes are great. the red, i think #2, hand size and up are the ticket. I wouldn't buy the small half of the set again. I also have a few metolius TCUs and I love them. very light and very bomber, and I like the triggers.
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uzibear
Jun 12, 2007, 4:22 AM
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ja1484 wrote: uzibear wrote: ja1484 wrote: uzibear wrote: hosh wrote: Are you looking to buy used gear or for opinions on good gear at good prices? Honestly, if you're concerned about weight and price, Forged Friends are sweet. hosh. definite NO on the forged; don't like them in horizontal cracks or tricky situations Tapers don't work to well in parallel cracks either, y'know. of course not; you are not making any sense i don't like forged cams because without a flexible stem placements are limited; i have used forged friends before once or twice with my friends rack Sigh...the point I was making was that forged friends don't work in horizontal cracks because they aren't made to, just like tapers in parallel cracks. The point is, this doesn't make them bad. They have many advantages actually, and with a gunks tie off, horizontals really aren't much of a problem, especially with the new generation. All I'm saying: Fair enough if you don't want 'em on your rack, but don't let the fact that they're not flexible stem do it. A lot of things don't work in a lot of situations (except Tri-Cams, which seem to f*cking fit anywhere ), but in other circumstances...
ah, ok; my mistake; it's not just horizontal placements i've had problems with forged friends but also in shallow cracks or in pods where when they get weighted down they like to twist out if you follow me; anyway, i'll think about it, i just don't think that i'll be buying them now; 20 years ago and things would be different 
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uzibear
Jun 12, 2007, 4:26 AM
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cintune wrote: Yep, try tricams. Good way to "start over" if you haven't used them before.
i have actually; not on lead, but for setting a fixed line for a mountaineering course; yes, they are versatile, but (unless i'm mistaken) it usually takes two hands to place them and i would like to avoid gear that requires two hands
and to the above poster: no i don't need a rack RIGHT NOW, but i'd like to look for deals and i'd like to have an idea of what i want so that i don't have a bunch of mixed gear and colors; my experience has been that usually my rack is needed, either partners don't have enough gear, or none at all; maybe you have better luck with partners than i 
LOL @ the solo climbing; haven't done much of that and what i have scarred me a bit too much; thanks for helping the post-marriage depression though; have a brew on me : )
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uzibear
Jun 12, 2007, 4:31 AM
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generally, i've found that i prefer stoppers above all else; for some reason a good stopper placement feels more encouraging to me than even the best cam; i've fallen on a stopper once (on the first pitch of lazy day-i think it's called, or lazy dog or something, in yosemite next to jamcrack, no lazy day is something in jtree, i can't remember) but i never got that stopper out : ) with all the banging on it even
stoppers are cheap so that's nice  but certainly i'll be wanting to start building a cam set again and want to want to choose on company/color code to stick to if possible
i think my main question would be: are there other brands that i might not know about to consider? i seem to recall a climbing issue that had good things to say about trango
i do like the color coding on the metolious; that's very sharp
(This post was edited by uzibear on Jun 12, 2007, 4:34 AM)
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uzibear
Jun 12, 2007, 4:53 AM
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i think the metolious power cams and tcu's are for me, with a few tricams for good measure, perhaps a metolious supercam
what about stoppers? everybody seems to have a different design with different curves and whatnot. suggestions?
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