|
8flood8
Jun 14, 2007, 7:59 PM
Post #1 of 14
(8321 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 1436
|
Make sure you pull straight down. if you pull out... often times once solid crimps will shear off.
|
|
|
|
|
mikebarter387
Jun 14, 2007, 9:59 PM
Post #2 of 14
(8281 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 21, 2007
Posts: 237
|
This is the guy that had the stuff clipped to the outside of his pack and got the fancy coffee
Sixth time on the net
|
|
|
|
|
overlord
Jun 15, 2007, 10:12 AM
Post #3 of 14
(8217 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
|
you must climb some strange limestone. here it is solid after rain, but slippery like, well, you know what
|
|
|
|
|
granite_grrl
Jun 15, 2007, 12:04 PM
Post #4 of 14
(8206 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
|
Actually, the only hold that had ever broken on me (that I know of) was on granite....go figure.
But when pulling on thin little flakes it can't hurt to repeat the "pull down, not out" mantra to yourself.
|
|
|
|
|
binrat
Jun 15, 2007, 2:10 PM
Post #5 of 14
(8163 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 27, 2006
Posts: 1155
|
Limestone + rain = slimestone
|
|
|
|
|
lena_chita
Moderator
Jun 15, 2007, 2:24 PM
Post #6 of 14
(8152 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
|
8flood8 wrote: Make sure you pull straight down. if you pull out... often times once solid crimps will shear off.
"often times"? Could you be more specific? Do you mean to say that it just recently happened to you once?
I am guessing that if it's time for a hold to break off, it will break off, and sometimes it would be when you are "pulling out", while other times it would be when you are "pulling down".
By the way, I'm trying to envision a "crimp" that you would be able to pull out on and failing. I can't pull out on something unless my fingers are behind it, and if my fingers can get behind it, it can't possibly be small enough to be called a crimp, can it? More like a flake...
|
|
|
|
|
granite_grrl
Jun 15, 2007, 2:25 PM
Post #7 of 14
(8152 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 15084
|
binrat wrote: Limestone + rain = slimestone
lol! You don't need rain to have slimestone.
Limestone + overclimbing + humidity = slimestone.
Common, you're from Ontario, you should know that.
|
|
|
|
|
lena_chita
Moderator
Jun 15, 2007, 2:39 PM
Post #8 of 14
(8140 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
|
granite_grrl wrote: lol! You don't need rain to have slimestone. Limestone + overclimbing + humidity = slimestone.
And especially if you add the chalk from previous climbers to the mix! Yuck! I hate the chalk slime.
|
|
|
|
|
8flood8
Jun 15, 2007, 6:43 PM
Post #10 of 14
(8089 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 1436
|
i've seen it around here in austin as well as the limestone in el potrero chico. After the rain, the rock is somehow more brittle, before it is completely dried. It doesnt matter what kind of hold it is, if you pull out on it, it can break.
that is all i was trying to say. And yes, several many times on climbs from 5.8 to .12d
be careful after the rain!
|
|
|
|
|
binrat
Jun 15, 2007, 6:54 PM
Post #11 of 14
(8081 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 27, 2006
Posts: 1155
|
granite_grrl wrote: binrat wrote: Limestone + rain = slimestone lol! You don't need rain to have slimestone. Limestone + overclimbing + humidity = slimestone. Common, you're from Ontario, you should know that.
Damn right, I know that all too well.
|
|
|
|
|
lena_chita
Moderator
Jun 15, 2007, 8:12 PM
Post #12 of 14
(8069 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
|
Thanks for clarification. If you are seing the holds breaking often, maybe places like that shouldn't be climbed when they are wet? I know that some sandstone areas have warnings in guidebooks about not climbing when the rock is wet b/c it gets brittle...
To say "yeah, I've seen holds break when wet many times, so be careful" doesn't make much sense. If you only seen holds breaking when wet, and not when dry, and you've seen it multiple times, then why are you still climbing on wet rock?
You just like making different routes that way?
|
|
|
|
|
8flood8
Jun 15, 2007, 8:41 PM
Post #13 of 14
(8056 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 1436
|
it rains alot here, often only for 5-10 minutes. It is more a question of climbing "after" the rain. You can't always tell what is completely dry.
|
|
|
|
|
the_climber
Jun 15, 2007, 9:00 PM
Post #14 of 14
(8049 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 9, 2003
Posts: 6142
|
granite_grrl wrote: binrat wrote: Limestone + rain = slimestone lol! You don't need rain to have slimestone. Limestone + overclimbing + humidity = slimestone. Common, you're from Ontario, you should know that.
Limestone the wonderfull rock... the more you climb it the more you slop.
There is only one thing around here more slippery than pollished limestone.... even more slippery than pollished wet limestone.... that would be wet quartzite slopers!
Holy mother of @#$% that stuff is slick!
(This post was edited by the_climber on Jun 15, 2007, 9:01 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
|
