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paulmadry
Jun 18, 2007, 9:11 AM
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Registered: Oct 15, 2002
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If you could compare the grades in RMNP ( without concern to altitude), is the grading harder or easier than Yosemities ? Or if you could to compare it to Gunks , NY.
Route in question is " casual route " on diamond.
Thanks
Paul
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maldaly
Jun 18, 2007, 9:31 AM
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The crux on the Casual Route would be rated 5.9 if it was in Eldo, 5.8+ in the Gunks. Because it's at 14,000 feet at the end of a 6 mile hike with 4,500' elevation gain and 6 or more pitches of climbing, for most people, it feels like 5.11.
Mal
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bluesky
Jun 18, 2007, 9:35 AM
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Paul,
Here's my 2 cents. I feel that without altitude, the grade of the climbing on the line is pretty close to standard for a grade IV 10a across the west. Also beware the crowds. The Casual is also known as the Cattle route.
I think the impact of altitude and logistics (getting to the base of the line at the best time - one day blitz or bivy) are often underestimated by many parties who head to the area.
Have you ever done any other alpine climbing, particularly alpine rock, at similar altitude? If not I'd highly recommend a "warm up". Try another alpine line in RMNP before heading to the Diamond, just my humble opinion.
A great candidate is 'Directissima' 5.10a on Chasm View wall. Same grade, same cirque, 1/4 of the commitment.
Good Luck,
Jesse
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maldaly
Jun 18, 2007, 9:49 AM
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Perfect advice Jessie. Flying Buttress on Meeker is a great "test" ride, too.
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flamer
Jun 19, 2007, 7:17 AM
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bluesky wrote: If not I'd highly recommend a "warm up". Try another alpine line in RMNP before heading to the Diamond, just my humble opinion.
Defiantly.
You might also look at doing a line on Hallets, first. The approach is very casual, there are some very good routes, and you get some altitude.
Have fun!
josh
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paulmadry
Jun 21, 2007, 5:53 AM
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Registered: Oct 15, 2002
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Thanks for advice. I have my warm up covered. I'd very welcome any more opinions about grade comparision with yosemities or east coast climbs. Different people ,different opinions but at least i'll have a clue.
thanks again
Paul
(This post was edited by paulmadry on Jun 21, 2007, 6:54 AM)
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jsj42
Jun 21, 2007, 6:40 AM
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Having climbed in the Gunks, Yosemite, and RMNP extensively, I'd say that the Casual Route will feel significantly easier than typical "long route" 5.10a in the Valley. Taking altitude and approach into account, it may feel roughly similiar in effort to typical valley 10a, but I think you'll find the climbing itself to be easier.
Comparing to the Gunks, however, is very difficult. I'd say most of the 5.10a Gunks routes I've done have moves that are far harder than anything on the Casual Route; however the climbing styles are nothing alike. Not to mention there is no comparison between the carriage road and the Long's Peak trail.
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paulmadry
Jul 23, 2007, 7:40 PM
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Registered: Oct 15, 2002
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hi
thanks for the 5.8+ encouragement ( when you said what the 5.10 casual route's crux compares to) . it did feel harder though.
It was aaaaaaaaaaaaaawsome route.
I decided to move to colorado next year. I'm really serious.
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