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Owen Spalding / Weather / Route Finding ?
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thedewguy17


Jun 18, 2007, 9:28 AM
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Owen Spalding / Weather / Route Finding ?  (North_America: United_States: Wyoming: Western_Wy_: Grand_Teton_NP)
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hey guys, I've read through most of the previous discussions about the Tetons and the OS route, I'm thinking about doing it in early august. I'm a solid 5.6-5.7 trad lead, been shifting to the trad scene over the last year from sport. I did mt. rainier last summer with a guide but was looking for a fairly easy beginner route to lead myself. I was lightheaded at the top of rainier as well, so I may take an extra day on the Tetons to help that. I've heard minimal on the cams, mostly passive? Any other suggestions? And how is the weather? I've read mixed reviews but was curious about what type of clothing to take. (i.e. on rainier it got bloody cold and I'd prefer to avoid that) also, hows the ice/snow on the OS route? any good comments about route finding cause I heard thats the hardest part of the route, might follow a guide? but I don't want to be all up on their ass either. i'd love some input from somebody who touched it recently or heard. Just looking for some general pointers, if you guys would recommend another route or mountain within about 6 hours of bozeman, montana I'm totally open for suggestions, just an ole tennessee boy looking to do a little climbing, thanks Smile


brianinslc


Jun 26, 2007, 8:42 AM
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Re: [thedewguy17] Owen Spalding / Weather / Route Finding ? [In reply to]
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thedewguy17 wrote:
I've heard minimal on the cams, mostly passive?

I've done it with 5 stoppers, but, felt comfy soloing it too, so... I'd highly recommend a small set of cams, though, if you're a fledgling trad leader. The belay past the double chimney takes medium size cams a whole bunch easier than nuts, to be sure.

In reply to:
And how is the weather?

Its fine now, thanks for asking...(ha ha).

Can snow any month. My personal recommendation is to not proceed if the forecast is for more than a 40% chance of afternoon t-showers. And, if you do risk a possible t-shower day ascent, be sure to top out before 10 a.m. Seriously.

In reply to:
I've read mixed reviews but was curious about what type of clothing to take.


You'll see folks jog up the O.S. in a day from the parking lot in a light shirt and running shorts. Really, you won't need super warm clothing if you don't get stuck on the peak in bad weather. To have some margin, though, you'd want all synthetic clothing, probably a light rain jacket, and a light insulating layer and a warm insulating layer (light and heavy capilene or the like) and a pair of schoeller or the like pants that shed the rain, but, breath and are stretchy and durable for rock climbing. Warm hat. That time of year (early August) I wouldn't bother with any gloves, but, some folks toss in a light pair for the early morning cool.

In reply to:
hows the ice/snow on the OS route?

This season, early August there shouldn't be any snow or ice on the O.S. Might be a teeny bit back in the chimney, but, it won't be consequental to climbing. Given also that it doesn't snow during your trip...

In reply to:
any good comments about route finding cause I heard thats the hardest part of the route, might follow a guide?

Its not too hard to follow if you're saavy with guidebook directions. The big loss of time will be trying to find the eye of the needle on the approach hike, so, I'd recommend dialing that rig in the daylight prior to your summit send. You might schedule in enough time to figure out most of the approach to the upper saddle, but, at least to the eye as folks loose a bunch of time in the dark trying to figure out where to go in that area.

In reply to:
but I don't want to be all up on their ass either.

It's not guided near as much as the Exum, so, you probably won't see a guide on the route. They leave super early and have the approach totally dialed. You'll most likely just see headlights way up there by the time you leave the lower saddle.

For the actual route, when you leave the upper saddle, remember that although its seriously exposed (you curl around toward the west face and over the black ice coulior), its never "hard". Its fairly well trodden and some of the holds will feel a tad smooth. Go further to the left than you think past the belly crawl. The correct chimney is easy, secure stemming with not much pro. If that ain't the case, then you're in the wrong spot. Take care traversing over on the catwalk (past the double chimney). Its kinda slippery and smooth, low angle but without big features to hold onto. Remember to traverse over to the right a bit further than you might think, and connect in with the down climb to the standard rappel anchor. Up from there is easier than the other recommended alternatives, I'd think. Up and then slightly left into Sargeants Chimney, then back and forth on easy ground until the top. You'll reverse this section back down to the standard rappel.

Anyhoo, now I've blown your onsite...har har...

Have fun,

-Brian in SLC


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