Forums: Climbing Information: In Memory Of:
Rob Slater
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captainkody


Jun 25, 2007, 4:28 AM
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Rob Slater
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I never knew or met Rob Slater. I wish I did. His life is so worthy of special attention.


captainkody


Jun 25, 2007, 5:04 AM
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Re: [captainkody] Rob Slater [In reply to]
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OK, Here is one reason why...
Slater may be the first person to take a leash-protected fall on a highline slackline[5]. In 1983 he set up a short 22' line under a freeway overpass in Pasadena with Scott Balcom and others. The line was 80' above the ground. Even though Slater only had 15 minutes of slacklining practice at the gound level, he was the first in the group to attempt to walk the line


captainkody


Jun 26, 2007, 1:22 AM
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Re: [captainkody] Rob Slater [In reply to]
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Rob Slater (1960-1995) was an American mountaineer known for his first ascent of the big wall route Wyoming Sheep Ranch on El Capitan. A tireless outdoor recreationalist, Slater built up an impressive climbing resume during his college years and later as he worked as a trader on the Chicago Mercantile Exchange. He died on August 13, 1995 while descending from the summit of K2.

Rob started climbing early, summiting the Grand Teton at age 13 with mountaineering pioneer Paul Petzoldt[1]. He attended high school in Cheyenne, Wyoming and college at the University of Colorado at Boulder, an institution he chose for its beautiful location beneath the Flatirons and, according to fellow climber John Sherman, its beautiful coeds[2]. Slater soon demonstrated his nerve in nearby Eldorado Canyon by dispatching the testpiece route Wild Country (11a R), still difficult today even though the availability of sticky rubber climbing shoes and micronuts has reduced the challenge.

While in college, Slater began making summer trips to Yosemite Valley, where he climbed his first big wall route Zodiac with Tom Cosgriff. During his junior year Slater met Randy Leavitt, who taught Slater how to BASE jump. Attempting a risky jump with Leavitt in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Slater was forced to make a downwind landing on the wrong side of the river, twisting his foot and scrubbing their plans to exit the canyon by climbing one of the walls.

Slater was one of the top aid climbers of his day. In 1982 he made the first solo ascent of the Pacific Ocean Wall, at the time one of the hardest routes on El Capitan. Slater naturally capped his ascent with a BASE jump. In 1984 Slater put up Wyoming Sheep Ranch (A5) with John Barbella[3]. Caught by nightfall in the middle of a difficult and overhung pitch, Slater lowered off 40' on hooks, and Barbella had to pull him in 20' to the belay. Wyoming Sheep Ranch held title for many years as the most difficult and dangerous aid climb on El Cap, but the inevitable widening of placements and appearance of fixed gear has subsequently reduced the grade to A4[4].

As a specialist in climbs with poor protection, Slater was drawn to the Fisher Towers near Moab, Utah, famous for their soft, crumbly rock. Slater was the first and as of 1995 the only climber to summit all of the towers[2].

Slater may be the first person to take a leash-protected fall on a highline slackline[5]. In 1983 he set up a short 22' line under a freeway overpass in Pasadena with Scott Balcom and others. The line was 80' above the ground. Even though Slater only had 15 minutes of slacklining practice at the gound level, he was the first in the group to attempt to walk the line.

Slater excelled at all types of climbing, having ascended the 3000' ice route Slipstream in the Canadian Rockies as well as K2 without bottled oxygen. Slater perished in a storm on the descent from K2 along with 5 other climbers, including his team member, noted female climber Alison Hargreaves.

Bibliography[reply]


captainkody


Jun 26, 2007, 1:36 AM
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Re: [captainkody] Rob Slater [In reply to]
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I want to write about Rob's life. It deserves to be written. I was wondering if anyone out there knew him?

Cpt Kody
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captainkody


Jun 26, 2007, 1:49 AM
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Re: [captainkody] Rob Slater [In reply to]
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This man's life deserves to be written now. I want to know if there are any out there that knew him? i want to write about him if there are no complaints?
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microbarn


Jun 26, 2007, 3:28 AM
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Re: [captainkody] Rob Slater [In reply to]
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are you going to give credit to your source for the article?


captainkody


Jun 26, 2007, 9:16 AM
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Re: [microbarn] Rob Slater [In reply to]
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Your right. The earlier thread was copied and pasted from an internet search... I apologize for not citing the source.
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captainkody


Nov 19, 2007, 5:53 PM
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Re: [captainkody] Rob Slater [In reply to]
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I've been out o' country for a while. I want to honor Rob. I will accept no money or gifts or anything for writing about him. Please email me. I will explain.


maldaly


Nov 19, 2007, 6:48 PM
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Re: [captainkody] Rob Slater [In reply to]
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I know Rob. Went to his memorial.


curt


Nov 19, 2007, 10:46 PM
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Re: [maldaly] Rob Slater [In reply to]
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I only met Rob once--on a bouldering trip to Moab in the fall of 1994. I was also saddened by the news of his death on K2.

Curt


bender


Jun 19, 2008, 9:26 PM
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Re: [curt] Rob Slater [In reply to]
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back before climbing gyms heed fire codes i once got packed into that boulder rock club within earshot of rob

someone had let derek hersey mc the finals and by the late hour he was nearly incoherent

fortunately our corner of the place had rob to translate, despite dereks being so funny that rob was laughing to hard to breath alot of the time

alan lester might remember that


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