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captainkody
Jun 26, 2007, 2:37 AM
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Registered: Jun 5, 2004
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any rope solo tips from folks that do it?
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joeforte
Jun 26, 2007, 2:46 AM
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Back yourself up at all times. If you don't know how, then don't rope solo.
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forkliftdaddy
Jun 26, 2007, 2:49 AM
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I use a Soloist. I don't have a job right now, and so I've been using it a good bit lately. It is important that you know what you're doing. Once you figure out the basics (such as how to thread the device), there remain a lot of details to figure out. Here's my beta:
BACKUP KNOTS
For a while I didn't clip my backup knots. I'd just tie them and let them hang. This leaves your harness cleaner but causes A LOT more rope drag. Now I clip two lockers to my tie in points. Specifically, I use Petzl William Spinball lockers and clip these with the gate facing out and the big basket on the bottom. I find these relatively quick and easy to operate due to their size, keylock gate and locking mechanism. (Too bad they were discontinued.) Then I clip my first knot to one and ignore the other for a while. When it is time to untie my first knot, I I first tie and clip a second knot. I could probably use clove hitches on these biners, but I haven't got that worked out yet (with one hand). I just tie overhand knots.
PRUSIKS
On lead, I find I that occasionally need to reduce the amount the rope pulls slack through the Soloist. So every now -- more often on steeper ground -- I clip a loop of cord to a piece of my gear and tie a klemhiest, autoblock or similar knot around the rope to keep it from sliding back toward the ground.
CHEST HARNESS
I prefer a hand-tied sling for my chest harness. It is lightweight and, because I made it, the perfect length. Plus, I can use it for something else in a bind, like a rap anchor.
CHEST LOCKER
I was freaked out by how the locker on my cest harness would get cross loaded. So I bought a Petzl Omni screwgate locker. It is heavy, but super beefy and gives me a warm fuzzy feeling as it is made to be loaded in three directions, even across the gate.
RAPPELLING
I tried using the Soloist as a rap device, but it sucked. I now carry my belay device with me. I don't carry it on a locker. I just use one of the lockers I use to clip my back up knots. Instead, I just carry it on a leaver biner. It is important to not leave your rappel device on the ground when you go up, or else you'll have to rig something.
That's what I know. Good luck!
(This post was edited by forkliftdaddy on Jun 26, 2007, 3:06 AM)
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captainkody
Jun 26, 2007, 4:22 AM
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Ive been climbing since 85 and still alive What I was wanting to know is about stuff I guess. I love climbing by myself. But, I wonder how other folks do it? |
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112
Jun 26, 2007, 4:38 AM
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captainkody wrote: What I was wanting to know is about stuff I guess. I love climbing by myself. But, I wonder how other folks do it? I do my solo stuff by myself. 
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moose_droppings
Jun 26, 2007, 6:34 AM
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1000's of ways to do this.
Use back-up knots. Have your system dialed before getting to far of the ground. Know its limitations and how to get yourself out of trouble.
I also use a soloist (go ahead, chastise me) in conjunction with a gear/chest harness on a steel locking biner. I also choose to flake my rope in a pack and let it pay out from the bottom of the pitch. Bottom anchor is redundant for upper pull, always be considerate of the direction of the pull on the 1st piece. The rest of the belays I try to have 3 pieces for an upward pull and 3 for downward pull. I use weak old shoestrings to keep the rope tight. Keeps your wits about you, be methodical, enjoy the solitude, and know when to back off. Bailing is a tool sometimes.
(This post was edited by moose_droppings on Jun 26, 2007, 6:41 AM)
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captainkody
Jun 26, 2007, 7:43 AM
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I like the shoe string idea. I think using a Soloist is good. No need to apologize for that. Backing off is everything rope solo. We are escape artists sometimes.
Backing off early is always the best prevention that we never want to consider. I am a whimp. and I am alive.
I usually climb rope solo WAY below my ability (V5 moves on a good day). I love this form more than any other. Just don't get much input from others. So, I am greatfull for all the tid bits here...
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forkliftdaddy
Jun 26, 2007, 12:46 PM
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Yeah, shoe strings are a nice idea., I like it. I'll have to some out of my closet.
(This post was edited by forkliftdaddy on Jun 26, 2007, 12:47 PM)
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climbinwv
Jun 26, 2007, 1:16 PM
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http://www.climbing.com/print/techtips/ttsport253/
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rock2tree2rock
Aug 6, 2012, 2:28 AM
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I've just completed my first rope solo toprope climbs, out of necessity mind you (climbing partners bailed out) and it was great!
My system is to set up the top rope as per usual, then to clove hitch both descending strands to the anchor biners. this effectively creates two independent lines coming from the anchor. I then rap down on an atc. At the bottom, I tie an alpine butterfly on the strand I'm climbing and attach it to my backpack for weight. I have 2 slings girth hitched to my harness with a locking biner on each. I attach my petzl micro traxion to this strand and back it up with a valdotian tresse prusik above the micro traxion.
weight both lines independently to make sure they're secure and ready to start climbing.
as I ascend, the rope feeds smoothly through the microtraxion and the vt. when I reach points in the climb where I would place pro or clip to a bolt, I make a on-handed slip knot in the second line and clip a sling to it, at the next " clip-in" I make another slip knot, clip in my second sling and detach my first.
repeat as needed.
at the top (only doing single pitches) either walk off or rap down.
both the VT and the one-handed slip know are tools of tree climbing that I use every day in my working hours.
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herites
Aug 6, 2012, 3:24 PM
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Tie knots, not clove hitches, they can jam badly if weighted hard. Bowline on a bight in the middle of the rope works well (easy to tie, doesn't jam). You could rap on a single strand and tie knots in the other while rapping instead knotting on the go. The prussik seems to be an overkill.
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rock2tree2rock
Aug 6, 2012, 4:10 PM
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herites wrote: Tie knots, not clove hitches, they can jam badly if weighted hard. Bowline on a bight in the middle of the rope works well (easy to tie, doesn't jam). You could rap on a single strand and tie knots in the other while rapping instead knotting on the go. The prussik seems to be an overkill.
I like the vt as a backup, it's superlight advances flawlessly with the micro traxion and if I'm hanging at all, I prefer to put my weight on it rather than the micro to avoid teeth sinking into my rope.
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willwill
Aug 13, 2012, 10:21 PM
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You put the micro traxion on a sling coming off your harness? Is it trailing below you? This sounds like it could be dangerous near the top of a climb. If you clip the micro traxion to a 2' runner then you will fall 4' before weighting the micro traxion (assuming this catches before your prussic). As you reach the top of the route there will be less rope between you and the anchor that can stretch to absorb energy in the fall (think fall factor). I know petzl warns against shock loading an ascender near the top of a pitch because it can damage the rope's sheath. They might mention it here http://www.petzl.com/...bing/introduction-us. Because of this I would eliminate the sling between you and the micro traxon so that any shock loading will be less extreme.
Just my thoughts
-Will
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rock2tree2rock
Aug 27, 2012, 1:40 AM
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willwill wrote: You put the micro traxion on a sling coming off your harness?
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oldrnotboldr
Aug 27, 2012, 2:05 AM
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I use a method almost identical to forkliftdaddy. And also use a soloist. And yes, it sucks for rappelling. And just to add more redundancy, one cannot stress the importance of backups, backing off when things just don't "feel" right, and bailing when needed. Better to walk away and try again later.
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potreroed
Aug 27, 2012, 3:43 AM
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I also use the Soloist with chest harness and locking steel 'biner. I mostly use it for aid climbing while bolting new routes on lead.
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wallwombat
Aug 27, 2012, 12:28 PM
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As with every thread on this topic, you really need to specify if you mean top-rope rope solo or lead rope solo.
There is a bit of a dfference.
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