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fng


Jun 27, 2007, 9:01 PM
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Always have a knife
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I have always kept a flash light, knife, 10' of 5mm rope on a biner on the back of my harness. I never have had to use any of it luckily. Last weekend I was climbing with a buddy at Con Dome near Shaver Lake above Fresno. Got to the anchors on a 5.9ish climb and clipped the locking biner attached to my daisey chain, from my belay loop, to one of the anchor bolts. At some point during the the set up for my rap, that biner got so tight I could not unscrew the gate.

I don't know if it twisted or what but I could not get that sucker unlocked. It was stuck. The only possible way to have freed myself was to take off my harness which I could have done but would rather not. Luckily I had a knife and used a sling to protect my self then cut the rope.

My buddy couldn't get that thing unstuck either. So a nice locking biner(BOOTY!!!!!) for the next person up that route with some pliers. Far right side of Con Dome where you start with an easy mantle move to the ledge then start the crack. If some one gets it, PM me. I would like to know who else knows about and climbs Con Dome. Don't worry I won't ask for the biner back.


coastal_climber


Jun 27, 2007, 9:03 PM
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Re: [fng] Always have a knife [In reply to]
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Yeah, my dad put one in my pack and said I might need it, and there's an example there. You're lucky you had it.

>Cam


jakedatc


Jun 27, 2007, 9:51 PM
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wacking the gate sleeve with another biner or a hex or something might have loosened it up


anykineclimb


Jun 27, 2007, 10:06 PM
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did you try unscrewing it while weighing and unweighing it? that sometimes helps


el_layclimber


Jun 27, 2007, 10:09 PM
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You never know when you're going to have to cut the rope. Just watch any climbing movie, Vertical Limit, Cliffhanger: cutting ropes saves lives.


phillygoat


Jun 27, 2007, 10:51 PM
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lefty-loosey, righty-tighty.


bent_gate


Jun 27, 2007, 10:52 PM
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And I have had friends who had their rope sheath cut by a falling rock or unplanned edge. They were happy to have a pocket knife so they could cut off the ruined portion and get back down.

I suppose all you need is at least the smallest blade you can find.

I thought I recalled a story where they had to cut the bad portion or they would never have gotten down, but I don't remember the details. Maybe if the rope got stuck. (make up your own story...) Wink


Brett1234


Jun 27, 2007, 11:19 PM
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Here's the knife I just ordered to keep on my harness. The Trango Piranha; physically can not open when clipped on a biner.
Attachments: trango piranha.jpg (32.3 KB)


overlord


Jun 28, 2007, 1:44 AM
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well, im just guessing here, but if you tightened it while it was weighted and then tried to unscrew it unweighted... it happens sometimes.


ryanb


Jun 28, 2007, 2:13 AM
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Yeah don't tighten them while weighted or they'll do that. In a pinch you can cut through the rope with a small length of skinny cord using friction but i generally have one of those tiny little key chain knives in my chalk bag. Doubles as a bottle opener which is great because the chalk bag doubles as a bottle holder.


Partner xtrmecat


Jun 28, 2007, 5:11 AM
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  I cannot see any cause to cut the rope here, unless you just wanted to. What is wrong with anchoring any of the other 30 ways and simply untying the rope from you and the beaner and just leaving said stuck beaner and take your rope whole?
Bob


reg


Jun 28, 2007, 5:16 AM
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fng wrote:
... Got to the anchors on a 5.9ish climb and clipped the locking biner attached to my daisey chain, from my belay loop, to one of the anchor bolts. At some point during the the set up for my rap, that biner got so tight I could not unscrew the gate.

.

ummmm - didn't you cut your daisey?


calfcramp


Jun 28, 2007, 5:28 AM
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well there's a nice looking one for sale here:

www.steepandcheap.com


markc


Jun 28, 2007, 5:35 AM
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You've demonstrated a good reason not to over-tighten locking biners, as well. Some models are more prone seizing up than others. So long as the gate can't freely open, it's locked enough.

As others have said, this can frequently happen when you lock the biner while it's loaded. Try loading it again, and try a couple cycles. (I'd do that before any bashing, but bashing may be a good next step.) While I haven't tried it, I've heard wrapping just the locking sleeve in tape to give you a bit more to grasp on to. If you have it, it can't hurt.

I also make a practice of carrying a knife on multipitch climbs, and having one in the pack for cragging.


jman


Jun 28, 2007, 5:43 AM
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I nowadays carry the "Buck Metro Knife". It is small, compact, and about the size of a half dollar coin. Also works as a good bottle openner.


Partner j_ung


Jun 28, 2007, 5:51 AM
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Re: [Brett1234] Always have a knife [In reply to]
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Brett1234 wrote:
Here's the knife I just ordered to keep on my harness. The Trango Piranha; physically can not open when clipped on a biner.

That thing is worth its weight in gold.


tradmanclimbs


Jun 28, 2007, 6:01 AM
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can't believe none of you pussy spurt climbers don't know how to open beers with a biner?? just put the cap inside the biner, squeeze the gate untill the knotch in the gate actches the edge of the cap, the spine rests on top of the cap just like a real bottle opener. works as efortlessly as a real bottle opener. A mini knife is good for lots of stuff like cleaning old tat from rap stations and cutting jammed ropes but it aint for opening beers especially when you have at least a dozen bottle openers hanging on your person (wire gates don't work) last winter I couldn't get a frozen locker unscrewed even after the usual light taps with the hammer. It was getting late so i just smashed the gate open with my ice hammer. I am sure a rock would do the trick in a pinch.

(This post was edited by tradmanclimbs on Jun 28, 2007, 7:47 AM)


dynoho


Jun 28, 2007, 6:18 AM
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reg wrote:
fng wrote:
... Got to the anchors on a 5.9ish climb and clipped the locking biner attached to my daisey chain, from my belay loop, to one of the anchor bolts.

ummmm - didn't you cut your daisey?

Nah, he should have cut the belay loop.....


climbinwv


Jun 28, 2007, 6:21 AM
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My weapon of choice is the Gerber paraframe mini -serrated. It is uber light @ 1.4 oz and is only $12-$13. Gotta love that Trango knife that clips to a biner. What will Trango think of next?


Partner kimgraves


Jun 28, 2007, 7:10 AM
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Aluminum stretches when loaded. This can keep you from being able to unscrew the locker. THE ANSWER: screw down the locker, then back off 1/8 of an rotation when you initially lock the biner. Just make it a habit. Autolockers are another option.

I too carry a Trango Piranha. But realize that cutting something should be a LAST resort and can lead to all sorts of problems. Just because you carry a cool little knife doesn't mean you should use it at the first opportunity.


(approximately actual size)

Best, Kim


gunkiemike


Jun 28, 2007, 7:13 AM
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xtrmecat wrote:
I cannot see any cause to cut the rope here, unless you just wanted to. What is wrong with anchoring any of the other 30 ways and simply untying the rope from you and the beaner and just leaving said stuck beaner and take your rope whole?
Bob

My thought exactly.

If you were daisy'ed in, then OK, maybe you might have to cut one pocket of the DC. But I can't even think of a scenario where you needed to cut the ROPE.

Oh well, I hope you learned something in retrospect. (And it's not to whip out a knife)


freezorburn


Jun 28, 2007, 7:15 AM
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Re: [anykineclimb] Always have a knife [In reply to]
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anykineclimb wrote:
did you try unscrewing it while weighing and unweighing it? that sometimes helps

This method works. but somtimes you realy need to bounce on it hard and that scares the crap outta me.


Partner j_ung


Jun 28, 2007, 7:39 AM
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I used my Piranha to ward off an attacking pterodactyl once. Thanks, Trango!


Partner kimgraves


Jun 28, 2007, 7:51 AM
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j_ung wrote:
I used my Piranha to ward off an attacking pterodactyl once. Thanks, Trango!

Damn good j_ung. Not only did you ward of the attaching pterodactyl, but you know how to spell it too. I had a hard enought (sic) time speling (sic) Piranha.Wink

Best, Kim


(This post was edited by kimgraves on Jun 28, 2007, 7:53 AM)


ja1484


Jun 28, 2007, 7:53 AM
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j_ung wrote:
I used my Piranha to ward off an attacking pterodactyl once. Thanks, Trango!


Had to use mine to ward off an attacking Majid Sabet once. Damn thing was threatening to rearrange my entire belay while the climber was on the line! Luckily, its broken english was no match for my pointy sharpness.


(This post was edited by ja1484 on Jun 28, 2007, 7:54 AM)

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