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gimpster93101
Jul 3, 2007, 7:06 PM
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Registered: Dec 24, 2006
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Hi all,
My girlfriend and I are moving to NZ indefinitely (min 3 months) from California at the end of August.
We plan to fly into Auckland and buy a backpacker car for initial touring use. We'll probably check out the North Island first, then head to the South Island after a few weeks and look for a place to settle down and work part time while climbing as much as possible.
First, we're looking for beta on where to go sport, trad, multipitch, bouldering, etc. (particularly the must-see spots with climbing in the 5.7-5.11c / 14-24 / V0-V4 range)
Second, we're looking for advice on which South Island towns would be good to settle down in for a few months starting in late september/early october where we could work part-time or seasonal jobs and climb as much as possible.
Any info, advice, ideas would be hugely appreciated!
-Jeff
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sbaclimber
Jul 3, 2007, 9:32 PM
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Registered: Jan 22, 2004
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I haven't been to the NI yet, but after I go in 2 weeks I will hopefully have a better idea of what is there....
As for the SI, Christchurch is probably the best town to be in for what you want to do.
1) it is the 2nd largest city in NZ, so there are seasonal job opportunities (not sure exactly what though)
2) Castle Hill is 1hr away, so that takes care of bouldering (it is one of those "must see" spots too)
3) the Port Hills are just out of town (<20min), with a couple dozen crags, and tons of both trad and sport in your grade range
4) the Banks Peninsula is close by as well (<1hr), with another dozen or so crags with as good to even better trad and sport
5) Another half dozen whole areas are within 2-5hrs driving (and/or walking), including Dunedin, Mt Somers, Paynes Ford and Charleston.
Basically the only major area that is more than a "short" road trip away, are the Darrans. That one would probably require at least a week to make it worth it, but from what I hear it is definitely worth it! (never been myself)
(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Jul 3, 2007, 9:36 PM)
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Myxomatosis
Jul 4, 2007, 11:48 PM
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Registered: Jun 12, 2007
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Hey dude... I'm in Auckland at the moment. There is a couple of gym's here but not much outdoors in the Auckland region. I think Ti Point is the closest one, but I have not been there (couple of hours drive north of AKL). There is the Auckland Quarry too but thats an afternoon trip (small crag but fun)
I have how ever been to Frogatte Edge just below Hamilton (2.5 hours drive from Auckland South) and its great for Sport Climbing. If you guys are quite new to climbing then this the place... most cilmbs are 18-24 grade (NZ Standards)...
But the best place I have been was Whanganui Bay. Its on the shores of Lake Taupo (3hours from AKL). You have to camp there (might be cold in winter time) but the place is magic... really peace full with some fun climbing (mainly sport again but some trad stuff there too) There are three main face's, plus more around in other bays (bit of a hike tho). There is quite a few other crags in the same area as well (Kinlock and two others but can't remember).
Both of these place's aren't very high (50m) but its got some great routes for having fun :)
I've also been up to some of the crag's around CHCH (Christchurch) and some of the stuff on the port hill's looks real fun. (I think I was at Castle Rock? different from Castle Hill). But if you are looking for a place to stay for a couple of months... CHCH 100%... not only has it got good climbing close but it also has plently of other outdoor stuff close by (Ski Feilds, Mounting biking etc).. but then again there is plently of seasonal work around Nelson (lots of wine/apple/grape farms)
I climb every Monday and Wednesday at Extreme Edge Gym in Auckland... if your keen to check it out, just give me a message when you get here. I also have a guide book for Whanganui Bay... but I found myslf trying to understand the book than climbing :P But it did help. I could maybe give you a copy if you are interested in climbing there.
If you want more details on crags... www.mojozone.co.nz .... I hear Paynes Ford is a must (on top of the South Island)
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lewismonkey
Jul 15, 2008, 12:12 AM
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Registered: Jun 12, 2008
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The best places to climb at on your way down through the North Island:
Froggat and surrounding crags for excellent user friendly sport climbing. Froggat and Waipapa are probably the best crags .You can stay at Bryces if you want nice accomodation or you can camp at the school there(Wharepap South) Free guides available from www.freeclimb.co.nz
Mangaokewa might be worth a visit (especially if it is raining everywhere) as it is a new crag with lots of sport routes and good camping. (Again see Freeclimb or Mojozone)
Whanganui Bay is a must visit place, on the shore of Lake Taupo. Heaps of routes of all sorts, just make sure you get a decent car as the road in there is a bit dodgy in winter.
At the time of year when you visit, those would probably the best crags to visit on your way through the north island. There are heaps of other smaller crags around, have a look on mojozone or freeclimb.
Christchurch is probably the best place to live for a while, just make sure you go to Paynes ford in golden bay at the top of the south island on your down there. This spot is sport climbers paradise, many a tourist has arrived here and never left!
Good luck for your trip.
(This post was edited by lewismonkey on Jul 15, 2008, 12:19 AM)
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kiwiprincess
Jul 15, 2008, 1:41 AM
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Registered: Oct 26, 2007
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Best places for climbing
North Island
Stay at Bryces and visit
Whanganui bay- be nice to locals you may get a good cultural experience as well
Waipapa-
i've never been to Taranaki but the Pictures look awesome
MUST DO Tongariro crossing. It's not climbing but it is not to be missed.
South island-
PaynesFord- for limestone cragging In native bush. Nice artsy hippy town nearby and a climbers camp so good to meet people
Castle hill area- scenic and awesome bouldering. also do cave stream cave! see Big Game DVD to check it out. Chch is probably 3rd biggest town.
Mt somers is nice trad, all grades
Queenstown and wanaka have good sports climbing on Shist. Wanaka is more easily accesible(roadside) Queenstown is more scenic- same rock. queenstownclimbing.hautetfort.com (some new multi pitch area's in Queenstown )
Other good places to live are wanaka, queenstown for climbing.
Tourist towns so employment is easy if you have a visa.
Q town is closer to the Darran mountains(do the cruise at Milford) The Darrans have crags and mountain routes. Multi pitch trad and alpine type scrambles,occasional bolted route.Granite!
Wanaka is closer to the Cook region and trips up Canterbury.
check out Mojozone.co.nz for sports stuff mostly north island though. some OK links to guides etc too.
(This post was edited by kiwiprincess on Jul 15, 2008, 2:31 AM)
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AlexCV
Aug 19, 2008, 1:47 PM
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Registered: Jan 25, 2008
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My gf and I will be heading to the south island (initially around queenstown) for 3 weeks and while we've got the South Island Rock guide book, I'd like to get some idea about what will be worthwhile in the early to mid november timeframe. Also, since gear appears to be so expensive down there, I'm quite comfortable in trading gear at cost or even gear outright if someone wants to spend a day or two showing us around... especially if we can save on a few days' car rental.
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sbaclimber
Aug 19, 2008, 2:17 PM
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Registered: Jan 22, 2004
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Early to mid November should be perfect just about anywhere.
(...although, this year it might still be a bit damp... )
Definitely head to Wye Creek, a lot has been done since SIR was published!
It might be hard to find someone to partner up with down there via the 'net, but try posting up on Mojozone. I believe there are a couple active users from down that way.
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AlexCV
Aug 19, 2008, 4:42 PM
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Registered: Jan 25, 2008
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I registered on mojozone a while ago and I have yet to be approved to post...
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