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climbaddic
Jul 5, 2007, 8:30 AM
Post #1 of 4
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Registered: Dec 3, 2003
Posts: 107
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Hi. I am trying to see if anyone have good aid route suggestion in Yosemite Valley. What I am looking for is following.
1) Something in C0-C2 range.
2) ~6 pitches. I am trying to do them in a day without port-a-ledge, poop tube, and etc. It doesn't have to top out, but that would be nice.
3) Some pitches can be free line, as long as it stays below 5.10 range.
4) short hike.
5) Something that is easily bailable.
6) finally, something FUN!!!
Let me know if you have hands on experiences on some aid line in Yosemite. I have 3 guide books for the Yosemite Valley, but was looking for some personal favorites.
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shimanilami
Jul 5, 2007, 8:45 AM
Post #2 of 4
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Registered: Jul 24, 2006
Posts: 1458
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There are a number of Grade V routes where you could go as far as possible in a day, and then just rap down. The Nose comes to mind, although it will be either crowded or hot at this time of year. Washington Column has a number of moderate routes, although the hike isn't exactly "short".
McNamara's Supertopo Guide to Yosemite Big Walls would be an excellent resource for you. It has a lot of useful information such as approach times, retreat/descent information, gear suggestions, pitch grades, etc. If you're heading our way for big walls, I'd strongly recommend it.
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summerprophet
Jul 5, 2007, 9:14 AM
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Registered: Jan 16, 2004
Posts: 611
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The West face of leaning tower can be done in one long day.
Assuming you are comfortable and moderatly fast, every pitch can be linked (under the roof requires about 25' of backcleaning).
5 pitches, the first one being a bolt ladder.
Be very careful on the decent. I would consider camping on the summit rather than coming down in the dark.
Other areas I would recomend would be Washinton Column, (prow, south face) or ribbon falls (gold wall et al)
If you are leading hard cracks free, than that opens up a lot of other possibilities, including half dome, and stuff on Yosemite Falls wall.
By perusing through the guidebook, you aren't going to find a lot of single day aid climbs, so you are looking at linking pitches and moving fast on grade V's or aiding shorter, more obscure free routes and aid through the hard sections. (Some of the less popular routes on Cathedral Spires for example)
Supertopo.com's forum is a great resource for Valley stuff.
<EDIT: just remembered Lost Arrow Spire..... Perfect for what you are looking for.>
(This post was edited by summerprophet on Jul 5, 2007, 9:17 AM)
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karlbaba
Jul 5, 2007, 4:07 PM
Post #4 of 4
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Registered: Jul 10, 2002
Posts: 1158
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Leaning Tower is NOT doable in a day by folks who aren't experienced aid climbers and it's a reasonable bet that the OP is in the mode of getting experience, not already being experienced.
I'd also seriously recommend against starting up some already congested trade route unless you are climbing seriously off-season (Now probably qualifies in the valley, it's dang hot on the captain and column)
starting up the Dihedral or PO probably won't get in anyone's way and there are other examples like that. The direct on Rixon's pinnacle used to be the perfect example of what you are looking for but rockfall concerns have chased most people from this climb.
It's a tough question though. You'd think Yosemite was perfect for it but it's not. Supertopo does have some suggestions. Sorry I have to keep my secret places hush for not.
Peace
Karl
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