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bbirtle
Jul 9, 2007, 1:04 PM
Post #1 of 1
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Registered: Jan 28, 2007
Posts: 102
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http://birtle.com/...limbingtheMirror.htm
.....after a half hour steep march I found myself chosen to lead the first pitch. Now maybe I'm just out of the groove of crack climbing, maybe it was the wet holds from the last night's rain, maybe it was my hands numb in the morning cold, but I found this so called 6a pitch very hard. "Adventure bolting" is how Mat described it, and how true - a bolt every four meters was about the norm.
Pete thankfully led up the next pitch as Matias and I caught up on the latest happenings in Chamonix and Geneva. Calls of "watch me" and "take" interruped our chat and upon following up we saw why. I still don't see how Pete managed to clip the last bolt - a dicey traverse on tiny holds. They say 6a with some aid but I'd give it a 6b even with the aid.
Next the crux pitch (if not freeing the last pitch, which we did not), and I was up. The first few bolts were not too hard, but very bold moves with bolts spaced far, far apart. Then a serious of much harder moves with the same exposure level. Quite sustained. I just felt like throwing up in sections - at one point I found myself two meters above the last bolt, both hands on small crimps, dancing around with my feet on sloping dishes. .... (More: http://birtle.com/...limbingtheMirror.htm)
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