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ithaca_ice
Jul 11, 2007, 1:59 PM
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Registered: Feb 9, 2006
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Seems like lines are getting bolted all the time up there why hasn't anyone fixed "the black arrete". can it even be climbed with gear? dosen't seem like there should be any ethics issues since someone bolted handles to get up to the tier of fear.
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michaeld16
Jul 11, 2007, 2:14 PM
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you should fix it if gear cant be placed and or get the fa if it hasnt been done.
dont over bolt, that is so ugly and annoying
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sbaclimber
Jul 11, 2007, 2:44 PM
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ithaca_ice wrote: dosen't seem like there should be any ethics issues since someone bolted handles to get up to the tier of fear.
The Black Arrete was done on toprope years ago, and graded (unfortunately, I can't quite read it, either 5.10 or 5.12), and probably just left at that, like many of the routes on Moss Island (where bolting is most certainly a no-no).
I have heard about the other bolting that has been going on though...
I am not saying one way or the other, but I could image that if you are good enough to climb the Black Arrete, and willing to put in the time and money to bolt it properly (now the trees are gone, camouflaging the hangers would be a good idea), your bolts *probably* wouldn't get chopped 
(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Jul 11, 2007, 2:45 PM)
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boku
Jul 11, 2007, 3:18 PM
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j_ung wrote: If you do decide to bolt it, you might try to build consensus among the local community first. Involve a lot of people and there's less chance your work will be erased.
Hmmm...
Bolting=politics="the art of the possible"
or maybe !=, just a thought.
Bob "BoKu" K.
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gthomann
Jul 25, 2007, 12:15 PM
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When we were doing the bolting at the Dihedrals 3 or 4 years ago (mainly top rope anchors above some of the climbs) we meant to bolt the Black Arete (rating 5.12). We installed clip-in anchors at the top (you can see them now), then climbed the route and marked all the bolt locations with chalk. But, before we got the bolting done it rained a few times and washed off the chalk, then the train wreck happened, ...
As for the Tier of Fear, we put the two handholds in this spring. The T of F is such a nice area, but always has been a bit tricky to get up to. We put in the handholds so climbers can get up there easier. The handholds have Nothing to do with any of the routes, I hope nobody removes them.
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wgriffith
Jul 30, 2007, 3:22 AM
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Registered: Jul 25, 2007
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We were going to bolt the Black Arrete. The anchors were put in at the top to facilitate it when the train wreck happened. Since then I am not interested in bolting it because of the exposure, but mostly because it is a really hard climb, 12.b/c, and not too many people, if any, will bother to lead it. It is a lot of work and money to bolt a climb and to put in so much effort for a climb that doesn't get done is not worth it. If you feel up to it, please go ahead and bolt. It is a beautiful route and worth doing.
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Adk
Aug 6, 2007, 3:01 PM
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Registered: Dec 2, 2006
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I know there is a bolt smasher in the area. It might not be worth it.
Last I knew he got caught a few years ago and sorta has been chased off.
The Diheidras are a nice area to climb
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ithaca_ice
Aug 6, 2007, 9:33 PM
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Registered: Feb 9, 2006
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too bad he didnt chop the old ones one trick bag, just to clean it up a bit.
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