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betsys


Jul 13, 2007, 11:18 AM
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Rumney sport climbing  (North_America: United_States: New_Hampshire: Grafton_County: Rumney)
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We will be driving from Maine to Vermont in a couple weeks, and I've read that Rumney has a lot of good sport climbing. We will have our 11 year-old daughter with us. She's a good climber, but we will want to find some easier stuff - 8s and 9s. Any recommendations for good walls? Also, any good places to stay near there? We could do motel, b&b, whatever. Thanks!
Betsy from Austin


gosharks


Jul 13, 2007, 11:37 AM
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Re: [betsys] Rumney sport climbing [In reply to]
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Look into Jimmy Cliffs.


olderic


Jul 13, 2007, 11:59 AM
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Re: [betsys] Rumney sport climbing [In reply to]
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The Parking Lot wall is the knee jerk answer. Lots of easy to moderate climbs. Short approach (shortest at Rumney). Crowded with lots on new climbers - could be good or bad.

You can find some generic motels in Plymouth and if you want to stay at Rumney for more then a day I guess you should. But if you are just passing through I'd keep heading toward VT and find someplace more interesting to stay. For example in Hanover if you are heading that way.


mr_rogers


Jul 13, 2007, 12:39 PM
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Re: [olderic] Rumney sport climbing [In reply to]
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Re: Places to stay

Check out Dartmouth's Moosilauke Ravine Lodge

http://www.dartmouth.edu/~doc/moosilauke/ravinelodge/

It's a big ol' lodge w/ bunkhouses at the base of Mt. Moosilauke. It's got a nice rustic charm and is staffed by generally chipper undergrads.

It's not the closest thing to Rumney, but it is a pretty cool place to stay.


tradmanclimbs


Jul 13, 2007, 1:02 PM
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Re: [mr_rogers] Rumney sport climbing [In reply to]
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depending on where you are in VT check out www.deersleapvt.com


coppertone


Jul 15, 2007, 4:44 PM
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Re: [betsys] Rumney sport climbing [In reply to]
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If you have any control over when you would be there I would highly reccomend a weekday as weeks can be a zoo. As already said parking lot wall is a good place for moderates. 5.8 crag would also do with a very short approach. Depending on how you are coming down from Maine if you were going through the Kankamankus pass you may want to stay the night in Lincoln which is about 20 miles north of Plymouth(the Rumney exit on route 93) Lincoln is also a few minutes from Franconia Notch which as many great things to bring kids to including the Flume Gorge and the Basin as well as great vies of Cannon. Lincoln has a ton of good hotels and restaruants.
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mrksprague


Jul 23, 2007, 6:53 PM
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Re: [betsys] Rumney sport climbing [In reply to]
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I would recommend the Main Cliff. The left side, around Armed and Dangerous, has some new routes around 5.7-9 and Metamorphosis 5.8 has been retroed. Most of the info is in this site's route data base. If you walk a couple hundred feet to the left, there are some nice easy routes just before you get to the Venus wall, up in a gully. They are named Wimpy Gilman and Dirtigo (don't let the name scare you). The base of the area around Armed and Dangerous is protected from the sun so will be good when the main part of the cliff (the Iron Man Area) is getting blasted. The tallest part of the Main cliff will be good early in the day before it heats up and later in the afternoon when it goes into the shade. Gold Digger is a nice 5.8 there and there are some short easier lines at the base of the cliff below the Iron Man Ledge as well as a few moderate multipitch bolted routes to the right. I think the best way to approach the Main Cliff is to walk a short way up the road (upstream) from the small parking lot keeping a sharp eye out for a trail heading up hill. This is maybe a few hundred yards past the parking and before the road starts to bend away from the river. This trail will take you into the woods and a short but steep hump will drop you off right at Armed and Dangerous. Walking right and up will then take you to the Iron Man wall. Left a short hop will take you towards Dirtigo and the Venus wall.

The Meadows/parking lot wall have lots of easier routes close to the parking but gets pretty crowded, so hit it during the week if possible. Some of the routes there are kind of nasty sharp slabs IMO, but others are quite good. Take a walk along the base and see what you like.


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