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Darkforrest
Jul 17, 2007, 5:59 PM
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I have been climbing for 2 months now in a gym (still need to buy shoes). I know that there is real rock out there for every lvl, but i had this goal in my head to be able to do 5.10s before i leave the gym.
I am currently climbing 5.8s with a big hold 5.9 here and there. I know that as soon as i do get shoes i will be doing real rock.
What is the estimated average ability and how many hour a week should i climb hard vrs doing the routes i know.
Is the 5.10 idea a good one?
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summerprophet
Jul 17, 2007, 6:18 PM
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Welcome to the climbing world. I remember when I started climbing, I had similar aspirations, althuogh I wanted to climb 5.10 before I stopped using a tied webbing harness.
For most anyone, 5.10 is a very attainable goal. For myself (and for the majority of the masses) 5.10 is the level in which the comfort level is tested. Slightly more sustained climbing, awkward or non-existent or a few quite technical moves.
Outside may take a little getting used too. You might find that some skills need to be adapted or new skills learned before the ratings equate from the gym to the crag. Don't feel bad about this, it is a learning process, and it will come with time.
There is no required number of hours put into climbing to get a specific return. Some people will climb 5.11 their first day out, while others will happilly spend their lives climbing 5.7. It is all a matter of motivation, mental conditioning and physical ability (More or less in that order)
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suzie_cuzie
Jul 17, 2007, 6:20 PM
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Darkforrest wrote: I have been climbing for 2 months now in a gym (still need to buy shoes). I know that there is real rock out there for every lvl, but i had this goal in my head to be able to do 5.10s before i leave the gym. I am currently climbing 5.8s with a big hold 5.9 here and there. I know that as soon as i do get shoes i will be doing real rock. What is the estimated average ability and how many hour a week should i climb hard vrs doing the routes i know. Is the 5.10 idea a good one?
I know a guy who is climbing 5.10 solidly after 3 months. He climbs about 5 days a week, a couple of hours per session.
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majid_sabet
Jul 17, 2007, 6:21 PM
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In reply to: before i leave the gym
Where are you planning to go after gym ?
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coastal_climber
Jul 17, 2007, 6:26 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: In reply to: before i leave the gym Where are you planning to go after gym ?
Outside, learn to read.
>Cam
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Darkforrest
Jul 17, 2007, 6:30 PM
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Motivation and mental conditioning are not really a problem as all i want to do is rock climb and i climb towers for a living but i am about 50 lb's over weight.
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stymingersfink
Jul 17, 2007, 6:32 PM
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what kind of towers?
why?
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majid_sabet
Jul 17, 2007, 6:36 PM
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stymingersfink wrote: what kind of towers? why?
Outside cell phone or electric towers , learn to read.
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Darkforrest
Jul 17, 2007, 6:41 PM
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Yes Cell phone towers which 9/10 is just climbing a 200-300 ft ladder 
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bigfatrock
Jul 17, 2007, 6:41 PM
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It will differ for everybody. I know a guy who climbed a 5.10 his first time climbing (almost had a TR style onsight, but fell once).
It will differ for everybody. I have been climbing regularly since about October of last year. I get to the gym about 2-3 times a week for at least two hours each session. I am just now breaking into the 5.10 grade.
One thing that has helped me the most is reading a book called The Self Coached Climber, do a forum search for it, tons of posts will come up. It really teaches you things like footwork, technique and how to train. Best of luck to you, climbing is addictive.
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stymingersfink
Jul 17, 2007, 6:46 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: stymingersfink wrote: what kind of towers? why? Outside cell phone or electric towers , learn to read.
Oh, and BTW majidiot, learn to write.
In English.
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shrug7
Jul 17, 2007, 6:53 PM
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Darkforrest wrote: Motivation and mental conditioning are not really a problem as all i want to do is rock climb and i climb towers for a living but i am about 50 lb's over weight.
Keep going...I have dropped close to 100lbs thanks to this crazy sport. Well... and I run (alot).
It's been a year I'm just now getting to 10d's and attempting 11a's
The ratings scale is all subjective. Indoor vs. Outdoor (even indoor vs indoor and outdoor vs outdoor) are usually always different depending on where you climb.
Hell, I was tricked in to doing my first 10a. Because I told the person i don't think i'll ever climb a 10.
Find some folks that know what they are doing and get outside.
(This post was edited by shrug7 on Jul 17, 2007, 6:55 PM)
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fulton
Jul 17, 2007, 6:58 PM
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Darkforrest, you have to understand that alot of people will want to drag you into a semantic debate about what it means to "climb 5.10"
Generally you have the right idea - climbing is more fun when the climber is strong, so keep at it.
Don't get too hung up on grades though, I am sure you are strong enough right now to go climbing outside and have a good time.
The best climber is the one having the most fun - don't let grades (i.e. pride) get in the way of that
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medicus
Jul 17, 2007, 7:15 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: stymingersfink wrote: what kind of towers? why? Outside cell phone or electric towers , learn to read.
Stym didn't say that to you, coastal did.
Honestly, the more I pay attention to your posts, the more annoyed I have started to get. You seem to have gone off the wall lately with absolutely no rationality behind anything you say.
I to have fallen into the category of wondering what purpose you are supposed to serve rc.com.
Maybe he climbs water towers for a living... learn not to make assumptions.
I think most people's issues with "learning to read" is that they actually read what you write, instead of what you think you are saying.
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calfcramp
Jul 17, 2007, 7:20 PM
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I agree with Fulton. The most important is the fun factor.
I've been climbing kind of off and on for a few years now, and thanks to knowing some pretty kickass climbers, I've managed to get outside on some great cliffs.
As far as grades go, the harder you climb, more and more terrain becomes available. I'm sort of at the 5.10 limit myself too. I'll attempt them out of necessity (lack of 5.8s available), or after sufficient goading from my smartass partners. It's just a matter of being careful and not doing anything stupid if possible.
The gym I go to suggests that you become a solid 5.9 climber before you learn to lead. I guess that's a reasonable suggestion, but it all comes down to what you want to do. Besides, what's a 5.9? I bet a 5.9 at my gym is different than a 5.9 at yours.
blah blah blah. Have fun and getting good will take care of itself.
Later,
-C
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stymingersfink
Jul 17, 2007, 7:23 PM
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medicus wrote: majid_sabet wrote: stymingersfink wrote: what kind of towers? why? Outside cell phone or electric towers , learn to read. Stym didn't say that to you, coastal did. Honestly, the more I pay attention to your posts, the more annoyed I have started to get. You seem to have gone off the wall lately with absolutely no rationality behind anything you say. I to have fallen into the category of wondering what purpose you are supposed to serve rc.com. Maybe he climbs water towers for a living... learn not to make assumptions. I think most people's issues with "learning to read" is that they actually read what you write, instead of what you think you are saying.
Majid is just enough of a stalker to do so, i guess. Perhaps it's just because he's thorough if not exactly clear (though historically the substance of his posts might cause one to wonder otherwise, his images would remove all doubt).
I do appreciate his mastery of the short sentence utilizing as few single-syllable words as possible. For the most part in his case, brevity certainly is an under-developed quality.
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medicus
Jul 17, 2007, 7:51 PM
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Yeah... I didn't notice that until you mentioned it. I rarely check into people's profiles. Oh well. I still really wonder what basis he uses to say the stuff he does.
Oh well, I just am having a hard time here lately understand what he tries to accomplish.
He had that post recently that was about a girl climbing out of her window on an unknown rope to go be with her boyfriend... it's just random crap like that that doesn't pertain that I can't figure out what he is trying to accomplish. Someone else also was talking about wanting to go climb the half dome eventually, and majid merely gave a story about a guy recently that fell ... and provided the OP with nothing except a horror story. I'm just trying to figure out what he is trying to do here.
Anyways, back on topic to the OP, sorry for the thread drift.
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Darkforrest
Jul 17, 2007, 7:57 PM
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medicus wrote: He had that post recently that was about a girl climbing out of her window on an unknown rope to go be with her boyfriend...
I had asked him what was his point on that one also
thanks for the info i got what i was asking about which 5.10 is above moderate status for a lot of climbers.
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Dianna
Jul 17, 2007, 8:26 PM
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I had been climbing (though not intensively--I'm a once-a-week gym climber for the most part) for over a year before I even stumbled across this grading system. And I definitely went out on to real outdoor rock (toproping) before I'd gotten to what most would consider a 5.10 climbing level. And some "5.10" gym climbs I can do, no problem (depending on what factors make it a 5.10 climb) and some I fall off of. A lot. So don't sweat it. Outdoors is different, and in some ways harder, but you can find plenty of easy and fun climbs. And plenty that're crazy tough. As long as the friends you're climbing with are aware of and comfortable with your level, it's all good. Don't wait to go outdoors. It's gorgeous right now.
(This post was edited by Dianna on Jul 17, 2007, 8:27 PM)
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majid_sabet
Jul 17, 2007, 8:56 PM
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Darkforrest
Jul 17, 2007, 9:00 PM
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I like how she became a he. The guy asking about 1/2 dome earlier was asking how long and what kind of shape he had to be in
Why would you assume i'm going to try and climb Half Dome. I know my limits, doesn't mean i don't push my self but i know i will not be doing anything that level for quite awhile. Maybe you should learn yours and stop posting like you are the one and only climbing guru.
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lena_chita
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Jul 17, 2007, 9:11 PM
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Darkforrest wrote: I have been climbing for 2 months now in a gym (still need to buy shoes). I know that there is real rock out there for every lvl, but i had this goal in my head to be able to do 5.10s before i leave the gym. I am currently climbing 5.8s with a big hold 5.9 here and there. I know that as soon as i do get shoes i will be doing real rock. What is the estimated average ability and how many hour a week should i climb hard vrs doing the routes i know. Is the 5.10 idea a good one?
Climbing 5.8-5.9 at the gym after couple months of climbing is pretty average.
Don't wait for any specific number before going outside, especially if you can find better climbers to go with.
As to how long it is going to take you to climb 5.10-- it depends, of course.
A guy I introduced to climbing this winter has been climbing once a week with me, and has gotten his first 5.10a lead outside (hangdog) couple of weeks ago-- so 6 months from starting to climb in a gym to first 5.10a lead outside? Seems pretty average for many guys.
Not that he can lead ANY given 5.10 yet-- just some that don't require much technique and suit his style...
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majid_sabet
Jul 17, 2007, 9:17 PM
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Darkforrest wrote: I like how she became a he. The guy asking about 1/2 dome earlier was asking how long and what kind of shape he had to be in Why would you assume i'm going to try and climb Half Dome. I know my limits, doesn't mean i don't push my self but i know i will not be doing anything that level for quite awhile. Maybe you should learn yours and stop posting like you are the one and only climbing guru.
I want you and every one else to climb ,even Half Dome but before you do it, make sure you take your time( does not matter how long) and go thru the whole process. Put some time and learn every thing you need to know and build your skills and then hit it and put your flag on top.
Do not go out there and try to get on a big elephant ,fall and then get yourself hurt.
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medicus
Jul 17, 2007, 9:23 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: Darkforrest wrote: I like how she became a he. The guy asking about 1/2 dome earlier was asking how long and what kind of shape he had to be in Why would you assume i'm going to try and climb Half Dome. I know my limits, doesn't mean i don't push my self but i know i will not be doing anything that level for quite awhile. Maybe you should learn yours and stop posting like you are the one and only climbing guru. I want you and every one else to climb ,even Half Dome but before you do it, make sure you take your time( does not matter how long) and go thru the whole process. Put some time and learn every thing you need to know and build your skills and then hit it and put your flag on top. Do not go out there and try to get on a big elephant ,fall and then get yourself hurt.
That's where I was confused majid. At times, it seemed like you just wanted to discourage people from climbing. If that's not your intention, fine. I still think your opinion is very skewed toward thinking that all climbers do stupid unsafe things on an everyday basis, which in my experiences is not the typical climber.
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Darkforrest
Jul 17, 2007, 9:34 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: I want you and every one else to climb ,even Half Dome but before you do it, make sure you take your time( does not matter how long) and go thru the whole process. Put some time and learn every thing you need to know and build your skills and then hit it and put your flag on top. Do not go out there and try to get on a big elephant ,fall and then get yourself hurt.
Did you even read my OP it said i climb in a gym and had planed on climbing in a gym where it is "safe" till i could do 5.10s but as i learned how they are rated started to think that although i still plan on climbing 5.10 + s i dont think i need to stay in a gym to get to that skill level.
I work at heights duing a job that is on the top 10 most dangerus jobs in the US. I don't do foolish things that would risk my life at my job why would i when Rock climbing
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