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Gothics Mountain Beta
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jmeizis


Jul 29, 2007, 8:30 AM
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Registered: Apr 25, 2006
Posts: 630

Gothics Mountain Beta  (North_America: United_States: New_York: Adirondack_park: Adirondack_High_Peaks: Gothics)
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So I'm reading the guidebook description and comparing it with internet descriptions and pictures and I'm still confused. I'm wanting a long climb and according to the guidebook the North Face (not True North) is about 10-12 pitches of runout 5.7 slab. I've seen everything from 5-14 pitches of 5.5-5.10 so I'm hoping someone has some beta to give me a more accurate idea of what to expect before I head out there. I'm thinking of going early September but the colors may be better later in the month, I don't know. All information is helpful. I've been in the 'Dacks for a little while but haven't gotten out to Gothics yet.


onceahardman


Aug 3, 2007, 4:19 PM
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Registered: Aug 3, 2007
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Re: [jmeizis] Gothics Mountain Beta [In reply to]
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hi jmeizis...this is my first post here. the north face of gothics is pretty adventurous. i climbed it maybe 20 years ago in winter. the next winter, my buddy went to climb it, broke his leg and needed helicopter rescue. not to scare you, but just be prepared to make 150 foot runouts on 5.7 friction, with dicey belays, depending on choice of route. judgement and routefinding skill are more valuable than beta. you might find it 5.5, and you might find it 5.9, but be a good friction climber, and don't pass up little trees for running belays. in winter, the crux (to me) was probably 180-200 feet of 1/4 inch ice covering rock that would have been 5.7 friction. we simul-climbed, using 1 inch trees as pro. trust your partner! still the scariest ice lead i've ever done. good luck! have fun! go for it!


rocknice2


Aug 4, 2007, 4:46 AM
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Registered: Jul 13, 2006
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Re: [onceahardman] Gothics Mountain Beta [In reply to]
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I've done it in the winter as well.
I found the crux was finding the wall.

To OP: There are a few walls there separated by trees. The longest of which is about 2000 ft. long

It's a pure backcountry adventure type place. You must rely on your own skills of route judging. Your basicly climbing the same as the first ascentionists did.


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