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Oliver Perry-Smith: American Grand Master of Rock Climbing
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jgill


Aug 1, 2007, 5:05 PM
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Oliver Perry-Smith: American Grand Master of Rock Climbing
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I bring up Perry-Smith's name occasionally in order to acquaint younger climbers with the first truly outstanding American rock climber. I've added a little new material about OPS to my website, including some additional photos and recollections of his youngest son, Crosby.

Oliver Perry-Smith was making 5.9, possibly 5.10 moves far above the ground and with scant protection over 100 years ago.

Perry-Smith in the Elbsandsteingebirge


skinner


Aug 2, 2007, 11:24 AM
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Re: [jgill] Oliver Perry-Smith: American Grand Master of Rock Climbing [In reply to]
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Very interesting stuff,
Thank You for posting this!


quiteatingmysteak


Aug 2, 2007, 12:59 PM
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Re: [skinner] Oliver Perry-Smith: American Grand Master of Rock Climbing [In reply to]
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I know the French and British had their stints in the late 19th/early 20th, I think those on our end of the atlantic were a bit more secluded :D Anyone who has done the downclimb 4th class on Cathedral can garner a bit more respect from John Muir doing it just a bit after the civil war was over...


skinner


Aug 2, 2007, 9:14 PM
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Now that's a frikken partner,
(especially if the leader is sporting hobnails)
and a determined team!




Galen


Aug 6, 2007, 6:54 PM
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Unbelievable shots. Great site; thanks for sharing.


sargentrock


Oct 15, 2007, 8:18 PM
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John:
Thank you for all the time and work you put into this history of early rock climbing. This is very interesting and inspiring stuff. What great climbers they were, and what wonderful adventures they had!
I hope younger climbers take the time to read the stories and study the pictures and appreciate the beginnings of the sport of climbing rocks.
Phil


healyje


Oct 15, 2007, 8:43 PM
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Don't forget the other early American master of technical climbing. Harold Lloyd.




trundlebum


Nov 11, 2007, 10:52 PM
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Re: [jgill] Oliver Perry-Smith: American Grand Master of Rock Climbing [In reply to]
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I am wow'd out!

Having had grown up back east, I've always been aware of early Eastern notables such as Robert and Miriam Underhill, John Turner and of course Fritz Wiessner. As a teenager learning to climb, Weissner routes were alway daunting, as They were often very committing in their grade.

An early mentor of mine named Kurt Winkler (I wonder, related to Georg Winkler?)...
Once hauled me up a Weissner route during a February thaw in New Hampshire.
We did it in double boots because it was convenient and as well, to 'get a taste' of the day when..
The experience gave me a respect for Weissner.
So I looked back and found he was active in the area in the 30's.

Your thread/info/archives have made me realize that my historical knowledge of rock climbing, basically ends in the 30's.

I poured through most of this info...
Fascinating.
JG, you obviously have taken time and trouble to make it available online.
Thank you very much indeed!
JR


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