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Crampons in Bugaboos?
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SECRET


Aug 2, 2007, 4:17 PM
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Registered: Apr 15, 2007
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Crampons in Bugaboos?  (North_America: Canada: British_Columbia: The_Bugaboos)
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What's the word out there...if I'm climbing in the Bugs late August and not traveling farther than Bugaboo Spire, Crescent or Snowpatch, do I really need to pack crampons? Isn't there a freeway to the routes by then in softer snow? Does anyone that has been there have recommendations on this?


slavetogravity


Aug 2, 2007, 4:26 PM
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Re: [SECRET] Crampons in Bugaboos? [In reply to]
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Most people will tell you to bring them but I have personally climbed all over the bugaboos without them. Mind you, I've usually been up there early in the season when the snow is still soft and you can still get away with such things. If your approach or decent of any route involves climbing up the Bugaboo/Snow patch Col. You're going to need them for sure, given the time of year that your going to be there you'd be crazy not to. read (vertical ice rink/ shooting gallery.) Mind you, no crecent tower I've done the climb, decent, and glacier traverse in my climbing shoes. Good luck.

PS. you're also going to need an ice axe.


jer99


Aug 2, 2007, 4:27 PM
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Re: [SECRET] Crampons in Bugaboos? [In reply to]
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Was there last August, definitely did not need any crampons for Crescent, I don't think you would need any for Bugaboo either. I was very happy to have them for approaching Sunshine Crack on Snowpatch however, as it starts a ways up the col. If you don't plan on going near the col though, you should be fine without them.


brianri


Aug 2, 2007, 4:28 PM
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Re: [SECRET] Crampons in Bugaboos? [In reply to]
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That is the same dilemma I had. I was just in the Bugs last week and didn't take or need crampons or axe. Glacier was hard and slippery in the morning and soft and mushy in the afternoon but neither presented a problem. If you are not going beyond the Crescent Glacier then you only have to worrry about coming down the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col, for example from the Kain route. The Bergscrund was not showing last week but with the warm weather that probably won't be true for long. Someone with some experience up there in August can probaly provide better beta. You can also check current conditions on the ACMG web site. http://www.acmg.ca/mcr/
Brian


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