Forums: Climbing Information: Regional Discussions:
FYI - belay bolt missing at Kiss of the Spider Woman
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Regional Discussions

Premier Sponsor:

 


granite_grrl


Aug 8, 2007, 6:15 AM
Post #1 of 5 (1524 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 14800

FYI - belay bolt missing at Kiss of the Spider Woman  (North_America: Canada: Ontario: Central_Ontario: Lions_Head)
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

We rapped down to do this climb this weekend, only to find that there was only one bolt left at the belay. Needless to say we wern't going to hang our asses off a single rusty bolt, and simply TRed the route instead.

Not sure if anyone ever deals with anchor replacement there (its questionable after looking at the rest of the rusty bolts on the climb). But if so it would be good to contact them.

To everyone out there looking to get on this climb: be careful that you rappel right past the belay stance looking for a set of two bolts.

I also don't recomend leading the route in the first place. Two people hanging off a single rusty bolt just seems like an accidnet waiting to happen.


surgeon1


Aug 20, 2007, 12:33 PM
Post #2 of 5 (1457 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 25, 2006
Posts: 13

Re: [granite_grrl] FYI - belay bolt missing at Kiss of the Spider Woman [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Hello

Are you sure you were at the proper belay station, ie the one with the ledge? We led that route on the long weekend in Aug of this year and there definitly were two bolts at the belay station. There is a hole at the belay station where an old bolt used to be but if you look off to the right there is another bolt which can be easily missed.


granite_grrl


Aug 21, 2007, 5:55 AM
Post #3 of 5 (1424 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 14800

Re: [surgeon1] FYI - belay bolt missing at Kiss of the Spider Woman [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Now you have me doubting myself. My partner went down, and he was down for a little while, couldn't find a second bolt (at the small foot ledge, and there was an empty bolt hole below the one belay bolt we could find).

I will admit that when I went down I wasn't looking as hard. Perhaps we just both saw the bolt hole and missed the belay bolt? Why would you have the second belay bolt so far to the right? Can you still stand on the ledge?

If I am wrong thank you for correcting me. The bolting out there can be pretty screwy sometimes so it is possible that we just didn't see the second one.


surgeon1


Aug 21, 2007, 6:18 AM
Post #4 of 5 (1410 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 25, 2006
Posts: 13

Re: [granite_grrl] FYI - belay bolt missing at Kiss of the Spider Woman [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I agree there certainly is some manky bolting at Lion's Head, but at least when we did the climb, which was on Sunday Aug 5, there were two bolts at the belay station, the one to the right is above the small foot ledge but is quite a ways to the right , you can clip both bolts and stand on the ledge but you need longer slings then usual for a "hanging" belay. I wouldn't normally make a fuss but this is a great lead!

By the way, somebody replaced the fixed threads on Lioness near Headspace making it a safe lead, it is another great 5.9 at Lion's Head.


granite_grrl


Aug 21, 2007, 6:52 AM
Post #5 of 5 (1396 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 25, 2002
Posts: 14800

Re: [surgeon1] FYI - belay bolt missing at Kiss of the Spider Woman [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Aug 5th, that was the same day we were there....so chances are that we just missed it. I've lead KOSW before, but I'm kinda glad I wasn't stuck doing it this time. I really noticed how rusty and manky the bolts looked!

There are some climbs there where the bolts have been replaced, I should have made better note of which ones we got on that had good bolts/bolted well.

We went to the ground on Maneline, it is possible to start it from there. Very nice to be able to belay from the ground. I understand this isn't really possible on some routes, but I think it is on many.


Forums : Climbing Information : Regional Discussions

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?
$7.65 (10% off)
$62.06 (10% off)
$53.96 (10% off)



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook