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recovering cleaner biner
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Partner coldclimb


Oct 4, 2002, 4:28 PM
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recovering cleaner biner
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I was just reading the post on placing quicklinks and got an idea. What do you guys think about this:

Suppose you have a designated cleaner biner, one that you would not use for pro because it gets beat up a lot. You climb a route, get to the chains, and clip to them with a QD to rest while setting this up. Without untying, stick a loop of rope through the lowering link in the chain, and clip your cleaner biner to the rope on the other side of the link, so it can't be pulled back through. Stick the back of the biner against the chain and weight the rope so it is stuck in that position, then lower off. When you get to the bottom, you pull your rope and both the rope and the biner fall to the base, so you can use the biner again in the same situation.

An alternate method could be tying thin, light rope to the biner to pull both ends of the rope from the middle, thus saving the biner from a long fall

Do you think that would work? Or would you be leery of using a cleaner biner like that? Has anyone heard of or tried this method before?


Partner rrrADAM


Oct 4, 2002, 5:26 PM
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recovering cleaner biner [In reply to]
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1. It would act like an ATC, and sinch down tight, locking off the rope.

2. The biner could move to the gate and release the rope. This would be bad.

3. You're lowering off one piece, bad.

4. Lowering through the chains wears it out quickly, and is bad practice.



Stay with what's tried and true, as if you try something inventive without sufficient experience, you will not pass on your genes.



[ This Message was edited by: rrradam on 2002-10-04 17:29 ]


alpinerocket


Oct 4, 2002, 5:28 PM
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I have never heard of this before. I am not sure if you could get a bight of rope through the chains. Also what you are suggesting if I understand it right would create alot of friction so it would be hard to be lowered off because you actually created 2 belaying points. One is your partner and the other on the chains (quasi-carabiener brake) John


Partner coldclimb


Oct 4, 2002, 5:51 PM
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Those are points I thought of too. I guess something like this would have to be revised and new types of gear used to make it work safely and efficiently. Thanks for the input guys.


apollodorus


Oct 4, 2002, 7:02 PM
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That sounds pretty spooky to me, too. The biner could move to the gate and come off.

You'd be better off buying some of those 3/8" quicklinks for chain that screw shut. They're rated for something like 6000 lbs. Lowering off through a couple of those allows them to be replaced when they get worn. And you can attach to them without untying. The downside is the few bux you invest in your local climbing area when you leave them at the top.


jt512


Oct 4, 2002, 9:51 PM
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There is a better way to lower if the chain links or shuts are large enough to pass a bight of rope through:

1. Clip in to the anchors with draws, as usual.

2. Call for slack and pass a bight of rope thru the chains, shuts, or whatever forms the anchor.

3. Tie a figure-8 or overhand knot on the bight, and clip it into your belay loop with a locking biner.

4. Untie your original tie-in not.

5. Lower.

-Jay

[ This Message was edited by: jt512 on 2002-10-04 22:18 ]


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