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johnson6102002
Aug 13, 2007, 6:50 PM
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Registered: Aug 23, 2004
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Hi I am looking for some route suggestions for climbing in the traps later this week. I am looking for something with a rating of 5.4 g or pg or under, as well as it being no more than 2 pitches. Exposure is not too much of an issue. Over the past 2 weeks I have lead easy overhang, Betty, Jackie, and squiggles, along with top roping kens crack. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Climbs that have easy belay setups are a plus.
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saxfiend
Aug 13, 2007, 8:56 PM
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Registered: Dec 31, 2004
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Not sure why you're limiting yourself to two pitches, but if you're willing to drop that requirement, you should head over to the Nears and lead Gelsa. Protection is plentiful, belay anchors are easy and the climbing is great. It's phenomenal!
JL
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gblauer
Moderator
Aug 17, 2007, 11:36 AM
Post #3 of 6
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Registered: Oct 4, 2002
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Minty, Three pines, belly roll, dennis (a little harder, one move at the very beginning. Not harder than Jackie), bunny, horseman (a little harder at the traverse, not harder than Jacckie), rusty trifle (alternative start), tipsy trees, simple celings, RMC.
First pitch of hawk.
To name a few
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burrito
Aug 17, 2007, 1:53 PM
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Registered: Jul 5, 2006
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Definitely what people have said so far, plus Andrew and Sixish. And if you're in the Nears at all, Yum Yum Yab Yum. Those are all three pitches, though...
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gblauer
Moderator
Aug 17, 2007, 1:56 PM
Post #5 of 6
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Registered: Oct 4, 2002
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Disagree with Yum Yum Yab Yum. P2 is unprotected for a good 20 feet, potential fall to a lege. (unless I was off route).
P4 is scary for a new leader, very exposed traverse.
I did not like my version of P2.
(This post was edited by gblauer on Aug 17, 2007, 2:21 PM)
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burrito
Aug 17, 2007, 2:04 PM
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Registered: Jul 5, 2006
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I don't remember a 20-foot runout at all, so it sounds possible you were indeed off route! I sure know that feeling.  And yes, it's true that the traverse is a little freaky, but that's what made it fun, IMO.
I guess the thing about all Gunks climbs is that they're totally subjective in terms of difficulty. A lot depends upon one's strengths and weaknesses as a leader, and one's state of mind on a particular day (e.g., getting sketched out by exposure and feeling the route is harder as a result).
I'd say to just stick with any of the 2-3 star classics and you'll probably have a good experience...
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