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angry
Aug 21, 2007, 4:04 PM
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I'm going to continue editing and changing this thread for all my little questions. It seems like a better idea than starting a million threads.
So the campus board is built and about ready to be installed.
Look at the photo. There is more reinforcement than shown, but you get the idea. What I need though is to find something solid, as in fucking truck, to attach the two pieces of angle iron on the roof to.
Of course studs are the answer. Now how do I find them through 2 layers of shingles. The inside of the woodshop has a finished ceiling, basically it has been sheetrocked and painted. There is no attic to crawl into. It's a problem because I'd rather put bolts through the studs instead of screws.
1. I believe that from the lip of the roof, the studs are 12" apart going perpendicular to the ridge in the roof. Does this sound correct.
2. Do you think big screws will be enough to anchor?
2a. If not, I could drill either side of the stud and
anchor around it. Would this hold up?
3. The entire apparatus wieghs probably 100-120 lbs.
Ideas? Answers? Anyone in Golden wanna come over and help?
(This post was edited by angry on Aug 23, 2007, 5:02 PM)
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reg
Aug 21, 2007, 4:14 PM
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i think it's cedar u want - i'll chk google
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ryan906
Aug 21, 2007, 4:28 PM
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The best suggestion is getting artificial wood decking (like Trex Decking). It come in 1-1/4" or 2" thickness which can be cut down to the size you desire. It does come in textured pattern to simulate the look of real decking. Or if you want to use real wood teak is a great outdoor wood. It is commonly used for marine applications. Both have cost but they hold up to the weather very well.
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angry
Aug 21, 2007, 4:39 PM
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The cedar was a great idea.
Trex is too. I am familiar with that stuff a little. It's great decking material. I would think it would have the advantage of not splitting if I get too aggressive with my drill (I love my drill) when attaching the fastening screws.
Do you think I should put a few more screw holes in it because it is undoubtably more flexible than wood?
What about sanding? Does it sand nice and smooth like wood or does it just continually expose more plastic fibers?
I have heard wood is better because of sweat absorbtion. That is probably true. The board will get most of it's use Sept-May in CO, so it might not be as much of an issue.
Trex or Cedar? Hmmm.
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reg
Aug 21, 2007, 5:50 PM
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trex - ala plastic? wood surley would be slippery when wet - good thinking - u could apply some texture - clear coat with ah little fine sand maybe- it does sand well - ur choice
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angry
Aug 21, 2007, 5:54 PM
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No, the wood is less slippery because it absorbs sweat. It's not like I would be out there in the rain.
I think I've heard that any coating on the rungs is bad.
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fitzontherocks
Aug 21, 2007, 6:21 PM
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I get outdoor wood anytime I climb. But it may just be the way my harness fits me.
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angry
Aug 21, 2007, 6:26 PM
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I predicted that would be the first response, not the seventh. I'm so dissappointed in you.
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reg
Aug 21, 2007, 6:41 PM
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reg wrote: trex - ala plastic? would not "wood" surley be slippery when wet - good thinking - u could apply some texture - clear coat with ah little fine sand maybe- it does sand well - ur choice
quopting myself - what's that?
can't even talk - look away i'm hidious
(This post was edited by reg on Aug 21, 2007, 7:54 PM)
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angry
Aug 23, 2007, 5:03 PM
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And Bump
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socalbolter
Sep 11, 2007, 3:48 PM
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I think you're going to find that Cedar is too soft of a wood for campus rungs. You will want to go with a harder wood. The wood you select depends on the texture of the surface you will want to grab.
Maple is a very fine-grained wood that will provide a nice, smooth texture, but will still absorb sweat.
Oak is going to have a coarser grain to it and will provide a little rougher surface texture.
Either one will hold up fine in the elements.
As for finding the rafters to connect to: Use a stud finder on the underside drywall ceiling and you should be able to find where the rafters are, the size of the rafters, and the spacing between them.
Connect from above with lag bolts (basically oversized screws). Predrill holes to 1/2 the diameter of the lag bolts you use and it might not be a bad idea to put some caulking or roofing tar into the holes before installing the lags to (somewhat) preserve the integrity of the roof's weatherproofing.
Good luck.
(This post was edited by socalbolter on Sep 11, 2007, 3:50 PM)
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jimo
Sep 11, 2007, 7:06 PM
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angry, as a carpenter I'd suggest not attaching through the roof shingles. Here's an idea- attach the angle to a 2x8 that is attached to the underside of the eave. First you get a chunk of 2x8 (which is 7 1/2" wide) or something larger 2x10, 2x12, attach that solidly to the rafter tails under the eaves, on the flat. Your 2x should be longer than the width of your campus board. let's say the campus board spans 3 rafters, you will want the 2x? at least spanning an extra rafter on each side of the campus baord, effectivly spanning 5 rafters to distribute the load. Screw through the 2x into the rafters (studs as you refer to them) with exterior grade screws at least 3" in length. Then lag the angle to the newly installed ledger under the eave, catching the rafters if you can.
As far as the rungs, look for mohogany or spanish cedar. they don't require treatment and actually have some texture to them. Your local cabinet making or mill shop can hook you up with their scrap I'm sure.
Too bad your not in the Boulder area, I have friends there that could help. If I confused you, sorry but I hope this helps.
Jim
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angry
Sep 11, 2007, 7:13 PM
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Thanks.
A few points to add.
The board is up, and has been for 2 weeks. It is attached to the shop via steel L brackets and lag screws. It is braced at the bottom using a platform that is secured into the ground with 12" long spikes. The front of the board has sharpened 2x6's that direct most of the downward force into the ground. The lag screws should only have to hold some outward force.
There is little flex to the system at all, I trust it very much. I'll seal it before winter too.
And I am about 15 miles from Boulder, but the board is already up.
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gunkiemike
Oct 24, 2007, 11:41 PM
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reg wrote: trex - ala plastic? wood surley would be slippery when wet - good thinking - u could apply some texture - clear coat with ah little fine sand maybe- it does sand well - ur choice
We just had our deck redone in Trex. It makes for a beautiful deck, but I would not use it for campus rails. It's basically wood fibers in a plastic matrix. Texture-wise it feels like plastic i.e. much slicker than wood, wet or dry. Sanding doesn't make it much better. Go with wood (I have coarsely sanded red oak rails on my wall and I like them)
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sweetchuck
Oct 25, 2007, 12:02 AM
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I must say, please don't use mahogany. It's a rainforest wood, and most are protected I believe.
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