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jt512


Aug 22, 2007, 11:04 PM
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Re: [coastal_climber] Can I climb 5.12? [In reply to]
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coastal_climber wrote:
cracklover wrote:
...What do you think those profile numbers should represent?...


The average, a grade you can do ground up, solid.

cracklover wrote:
...I don't get it. Why do you think my endurance is poor, if my hardest boulder problem is about the same as my hardest sport lead? I'm not saying you're wrong, I just don't get it?...

What does bouldering have to do with this? Bouldering is technique, climbing is technique and endurance/strength. (There was a thread about this earlier).

If you have enough stamina, you should be able to smoothly go through a route, working the moves, and taking advantages of rests & such. We've all seen it done.

>Cam

Well, the 5.8 dude with the profile pic of him climbing a 3rd class "route" has a lot to say on this subject.

Jay


curt


Aug 22, 2007, 11:20 PM
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Re: [jt512] Can I climb 5.12? [In reply to]
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jt512 wrote:
coastal_climber wrote:
cracklover wrote:
...What do you think those profile numbers should represent?...


The average, a grade you can do ground up, solid.

cracklover wrote:
...I don't get it. Why do you think my endurance is poor, if my hardest boulder problem is about the same as my hardest sport lead? I'm not saying you're wrong, I just don't get it?...

What does bouldering have to do with this? Bouldering is technique, climbing is technique and endurance/strength. (There was a thread about this earlier).

If you have enough stamina, you should be able to smoothly go through a route, working the moves, and taking advantages of rests & such. We've all seen it done.

>Cam

Well, the 5.8 dude with the profile pic of him climbing a 3rd class "route" has a lot to say on this subject.

Jay

Well, good thing bouldering is just technique. There's some hope for me yet.

Curt


Partner cracklover


Aug 23, 2007, 6:45 AM
Post #28 of 37 (1716 views)
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Re: [coastal_climber] Can I climb 5.12? [In reply to]
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Thanks, Mark and Jay. I very much appreciate your thoughts. Not only do I look forward to spending some quality time at Rumney now this fall, but It'll be interesting to me to see how this new strength, assuming it arrives, will help with my trad climbing. But that's fodder for another thread.

Now on to the thread drift:

coastal_climber wrote:
cracklover wrote:
...What do you think those profile numbers should represent?...


The average, a grade you can do ground up, solid.

Hmm, that seems appropriate for trad climbing, where that is the ethic. And that is exactly what my trad numbers are based on. But for sport, I don't think that's the ethic at all. Nor would that be a very useful set of numbers to look at for a potential partner, unless someone were interested in doing long bolted routes in Europe or something. Rather, if I were looking for a sport climbing partner, I assume that under "lead" I'd want to know what level the person is working redpoint attempts. And under "second", I'd want to see what they can clean reasonably efficiently, with only a few hangs.

In reply to:
cracklover wrote:
...I don't get it. Why do you think my endurance is poor, if my hardest boulder problem is about the same as my hardest sport lead? I'm not saying you're wrong, I just don't get it?...

What does bouldering have to do with this?

What does bouldering have to do with this? Are you daft? Bouldering tests your ability on very short routes, where endurance is the one and only factor that doesn't play in as much as other issues. So the fact that I get shut down hard, every time, on V5, and can't get off the ground on a number of V2s, but have onsighted trad 5.11 and redpointed sport 5.12- should tell you that my endurance is unlikely to be my limiting factor.

In reply to:
Bouldering is technique, climbing is technique and endurance/strength. (There was a thread about this earlier).

If you have enough stamina, you should be able to smoothly go through a route, working the moves, and taking advantages of rests & such. We've all seen it done.

>Cam

Seen it done? Um, I do it all the time! I trad climb, remember? All I'm really good at is finding rests, and making moves as easy as possible! And bouldering just requires technique? Hmm... seems to me that for anything even remotely hard, you need some power. But then again, Curt can boulder pretty hard, so I may have to rethink that.

GWink


Nicola615


Nov 15, 2007, 8:25 AM
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Re: [cracklover] Can I climb 5.12? [In reply to]
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If you have done Social Outcast, I would suggest getting on Capitan Hook, a beautiful 12a at Orange Crush. It was my first 12 outside. Only a few tough moves, with a wonderful rest in the middle.


Partner cracklover


Nov 15, 2007, 7:37 PM
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Re: [jt512] Can I climb 5.12? [In reply to]
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Wow, wild to see this thread resurrected!

First of all, let me offer a sincere thank you to everyone who contributed. I tried to take a lot of the excellent advice offered.

Nicola615 wrote:
If you have done Social Outcast, I would suggest getting on Capitan Hook, a beautiful 12a at Orange Crush. It was my first 12 outside. Only a few tough moves, with a wonderful rest in the middle.

Funny you mention that route! As it happens, I decided to make that my next project. I found it very difficult. A few bolts up, there is a sequence that I thought would stump me. But I did eventually find a sequence that worked for me pretty well. It took me three visits to Rumney, and probably close to 10 tries, but I redpointed it (now my second 5.12) just a few weeks ago.

On the next trip to Rumney, I had planned to fill in one of those 11ds - Peanut Man is a sweet line - but it was being gang-roped. So I went over to try The Vaporizer. Cool climb! I feel like I might be able to send it pretty quickly. Well, I could, if I had time to climb there and good weather. If not, it'll be a great project to start on next year. I like having something hard to shoot for.

And I'm really hoping that some of this redpointing ability will translate to onsighting ability trad climbing.

Anyway, thanks again for the encouragement and good suggestions, all!

Cheers!

GO


camhead


Nov 15, 2007, 8:04 PM
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Re: [cracklover] Can I climb 5.12? [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
And I'm really hoping that some of this redpointing ability will translate to onsighting ability trad climbing.

For me at least, concentrating on numerous sport onsights is way better for trad onsighting than any project climbing.

But I am a terrible project climber.


curt


Nov 15, 2007, 8:09 PM
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Re: [cracklover] Can I climb 5.12? [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
...Bouldering tests your ability on very short routes, where endurance is the one and only factor that doesn't play in as much as other issues. So the fact that I get shut down hard, every time, on V5, and can't get off the ground on a number of V2s...

and...

cracklover wrote:
...And bouldering just requires technique? Hmm... seems to me that for anything even remotely hard, you need some power. But then again, Curt can boulder pretty hard, so I may have to rethink that.

GWink

You may want to--since I still often warm up on problems harder than V5. Cool

Curt


iamthewallress


Nov 15, 2007, 8:17 PM
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Re: [curt] Can I climb 5.12? [In reply to]
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Congrats on reaching your goal, Gabe. Cool


Partner cracklover


Nov 16, 2007, 8:32 AM
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Re: [curt] Can I climb 5.12? [In reply to]
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curt wrote:
cracklover wrote:
...Bouldering tests your ability on very short routes, where endurance is the one and only factor that doesn't play in as much as other issues. So the fact that I get shut down hard, every time, on V5, and can't get off the ground on a number of V2s...

and...

cracklover wrote:
...And bouldering just requires technique? Hmm... seems to me that for anything even remotely hard, you need some power. But then again, Curt can boulder pretty hard, so I may have to rethink that.

GWink

You may want to--since I still often warm up on problems harder than V5. Cool

Curt

What, you're saying you're powerless?

Wallress - thanks! My real goal is to use sport as training for harder trad climbing. Whether this will work or not is still an open question.

GO


organic


Nov 16, 2007, 8:47 AM
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Re: [cracklover] Can I climb 5.12? [In reply to]
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cracklover wrote:
Hi folks,

I'm not much of a sport climber, but I do enjoy it, and I'd like to get stronger. I'm curious to learn a bit about "projecting" from those of you who do sport climb more seriously.

At the area I frequent (Rumney), the hardest climbs I usually get on are 5.11c. I can typically redpoint any of them in one to three tries. So does this mean that I ought to be able to start projecting 12s?

So far, I've tried three twelves there, all in the 12a/b range. One, called Flesh For Lulu I've tried for about three or four years now, usually giving it a couple burns a year. At my best, I've one-hung it once or twice. Another, called Orangahang I was only on once, and I hang-dogged my way up it. A third, called Social Outcast I one-hung on my second try, and redpointed on my third try. That's the only 12 I've ever redpointed, and who knows, it's probably soft for the grade.

So, what do you think. If I seriously projected 12s, should I be able to start nailing them, one after another, or am I still too weak, and will just destroy my tendons if I try?

Oh, if it matters, the hardest I've bouldered is V4.

GO

NO, Go away.


alwaysclimbing07


Nov 16, 2007, 9:28 AM
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Re: [cracklover] Can I climb 5.12? [In reply to]
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climb hard stuff all the time. You won't get stronger by trying stuff at your level, only better endurance. If you pull v4 then you should be constantly getting on 12b or 12c. Even if you hang dog, as long as your getting worked then your set, but if you start to get on stuff that is just so hard that you can't get a good work out then tone it down a bit.


Partner cracklover


Nov 16, 2007, 11:26 AM
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Re: [organic] Can I climb 5.12? [In reply to]
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organic wrote:
organic wrote:
GO

NO, Go away.

Huh? What the fuck is that for?

GO

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