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Beta for Monkey Face - West Face Variation
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poomasta


Aug 28, 2007, 7:17 AM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 176

Beta for Monkey Face - West Face Variation  (North_America: United_States: Oregon: Smith_Rock: 10__Monkey_Face_Area)
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I'm heading to Smith for the first time this week, and we plan on doing the West Face Variation up Monkey Face. Thing is, this is prob the only route i'll be doing that requires gear, and I'd rather not bring any more gear than i have to since we're flying across the country to get there and space is at a premium. Can someone provide advice on the minimum rack needed to safely lead this route?

Also, I haven't done any aid climbing before (tho we did practice jugging the tree in the back yard!). Per the bolt ladder, I was planning on bringing a set of aiders to lead with and some ascenders and appropriate length slings for my second to jug with. How long is the bolt ladder (number of bolts, total length of aid section) and does it start right off the Bohn Street ledge and go all the way to the east cave?

Thanks for any beta you can share.
Mike


herbaltee


Aug 28, 2007, 8:49 PM
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Registered: Jan 16, 2006
Posts: 185

Re: [poomasta] Beta for Monkey Face - West Face Variation [In reply to]
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You probably won't need more than a standard rack of nuts and a set of cams.
For the aid ladder, bringing a set of aiders is really helpful. The bolt ladder is 15-20m. It starts pretty much at Bohn Street. Having the second jug up is a pain since there is so much tension on the rope. The bolt line curves into the monkey's mouth. Sort of like a J that has been turned 180 degrees. Having him second while aidding up is my preferred method.

Its a great climb, have fun and do the 5.7 traverse out of the monkey's mouth. Its a lot of fun and super airy.


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