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Beta on "West Window" on Monkeyface?
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Sep 7, 2007, 11:10 PM
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Registered: Feb 8, 2007
Posts: 403

Beta on "West Window" on Monkeyface?  (North_America: United_States: Oregon: Smith_Rock: 10__Monkey_Face_Area)
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Hi all,

I'm looking at soloing West Window this fall, and I'm wondering if anyone can help me out with a couple questions.

1.) The route description I've got for the first pitch says in one sentence "aid past 5 bolts and then aid on smaller pro" and then says in another sentence, "can be aided on small wires".

No mention is made of the range of sizes........Anyone know exactly what they're talking about? I've got a set of micronuts, 1.5 sets of Wild Country nuts, with the overlap being in the smaller sizes, and a set of smileys. I've also got a set of the forged friends, which have a couple small sizes. I'm wondering if I need more micros........OR....I also have all of Ed's camming hooks....will the crack accept camming hooks?

2.) I know that there are bolts missing on the upper pitches. A stick-clip is recommended to skip over the missing bolts, but I don't have one. I do have hooks though. Has anyone successfully hooked the bolt or rivet holes instead of using the stick-clip? Did they bite the rock OK, or were they in real danger of tearing out?

3.) What's the angle of the pitches? Is retreat mid-route a possibility?

Thanks in advance!

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