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Partner angry


Sep 11, 2007, 9:56 AM
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Many many times I've come out against tick marks. Everyone says that it's fine as long as they get brushed off.

Not a bad arguement except that no-one ever brushes them off. In my life, I've never seen a tick mark brushed off by someone who placed one.

My latest example, Pervertical Sanctuary 10c, Longs Peak. It's got more ticks than the Black Canyon in the spring. Not a chalky hold mind you, a big thick tick on every single nub or edge. Ticked like a gym climb.

This is on a 10c (possibly up to 11a depending on who you ask) that doesn't have a hidden or devious move anywhere on it. I'm relatively certain that these ticks were put there by a big name climber who soloed the route last week. Fine, tick the route to keep your career alive (god knows your husband's is in the toilet) but rap the fucking thing and clean up your mess. You are a pro climber, you've got nothing but time. It's not like you don't have the extra half day to tidy up.

If it's not you, sorry. Doesn't change my point, don't tick a route you can't or won't clean.


drjghl


Sep 11, 2007, 10:32 AM
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Why do climber's place chalk on features to locate them? This mindset is kind of odd to me. Kind of transforms a climb into a gym route and who wants that.

Working a route, going up and down, searching for holds, resting and firing a sequence is one of the great pleasures of climbing. Putting pieces of tape on features (oh I mean ticking features) seems to be a mindset that hopefully does not continue to grow and eventually fades away into oblivion.


Partner angry


Sep 11, 2007, 10:34 AM
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drjghl wrote:
Putting pieces of tape on features (oh I mean ticking features) seems to be a mindset that hopefully does not continue to grow and eventually fades away into oblivion.

It's getting more prevalent and the climbers doing it are not cleaning up after themselves.


jt512


Sep 11, 2007, 10:35 AM
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drjghl wrote:
Why do climber's place chalk on features to locate them?

Why do climber's place chalk on features? To locate them.

Jay


Partner cracklover


Sep 11, 2007, 10:42 AM
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Oh, but how will my clients ever find their way without tic marks? I guess I'll have to just yell more and louder to help them out on every move.

GO


Partner angry


Sep 11, 2007, 11:09 AM
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jt512 wrote:
drjghl wrote:
Why do climber's place chalk on features to locate them?

Why do climber's place chalk on features? To locate them.

Jay


How would one locate the hold in order to tick it in the first place then? There must be a way to see a hold without a tickmark on it.


bent_gate


Sep 11, 2007, 11:54 AM
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Chalk is an eyesore. Even without tick marks, there is still way too much chalk that is left behind by climbers and not brushed off. People seem to think that leave no trace doesn't apply to this.

The only chalk marks that should be left behind are "x"s on deathblocks. And that is a safety issue.

What percent of climbers give a crap about this? Probably about 20%


CinnamonJohnson


Sep 11, 2007, 11:59 AM
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Who is the big name climber?


knieveltech


Sep 11, 2007, 12:02 PM
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CinnamonJohnson wrote:
Who is the big name climber?

No doubt. Inquiring minds (read bored at work) want to know! Name drop! Name drop! Name drop!


Partner angry


Sep 11, 2007, 12:08 PM
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Read my original post nice and slowly, it's no mystery.


dingus


Sep 11, 2007, 12:09 PM
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You should be able to work it out with the not-so-subtle hints Angry sprinkled over his post, hehe.

DMT


wonderwoman


Sep 11, 2007, 12:10 PM
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knieveltech wrote:
CinnamonJohnson wrote:
Who is the big name climber?

No doubt. Inquiring minds (read bored at work) want to know! Name drop! Name drop! Name drop!

Here's a hint:
angry wrote:
Fine, tick the route to keep your career alive (god knows your husband's is in the toilet)


(This post was edited by wonderwoman on Sep 11, 2007, 12:12 PM)


knieveltech


Sep 11, 2007, 12:16 PM
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angry wrote:
Read my original post nice and slowly, it's no mystery.

Yeah I figured as much. Sadly I'm not up to speed on elite climber circles and was hoping you'd just toss it out there for the cheap seats. I suppose I could get off my ass and figure it out myself though.

Edited to add:

Gotcha. Nothing a quick google session couldn't put to rights.


(This post was edited by knieveltech on Sep 11, 2007, 12:19 PM)


Partner j_ung


Sep 11, 2007, 12:19 PM
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Steph Davis

(Not that I'm accusing her of anything. I'm just saying that's who angry's referring to.)


Partner angry


Sep 11, 2007, 12:19 PM
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I can't help you then. Maybe it wasn't her, the coincidence though makes me think that things are "not all roses".


knieveltech


Sep 11, 2007, 12:20 PM
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j_ung wrote:
Steph Davis

(Not that I'm accusing her of anything. I'm just saying that's who angry's referring to.)

Roger that. Looks like googling "dean potter's wife" was the correct guess on my part.


campo


Sep 11, 2007, 12:25 PM
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Dean Potter's career is in the toilet? Did I miss something in the last ten years? Laugh


Partner angry


Sep 11, 2007, 12:29 PM
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Start here

http://www.soundclick.com/...9&q=lo&ref=2

Then go here

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...tter%20odub;#1577558

And finish here

http://www.soundclick.com/...9&q=hi&ref=2

Enjoy


camhead


Sep 11, 2007, 12:38 PM
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well, shit.

the r&i photo of Dean Potter's new testpiece at Indian Creek contained more than a dozen tick marks within eight feet of climbing.

if you want to use chalk or tick in the desert, fine. just clean up your damn mess. it's really quite simple.



*more pro-climbers should start going chalkless when crack climbing, just to set an example.


Partner cracklover


Sep 11, 2007, 12:51 PM
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camhead wrote:
well, shit.

the r&i photo of Dean Potter's new testpiece at Indian Creek contained more than a dozen tick marks within eight feet of climbing.

if you want to use chalk or tick in the desert, fine. just clean up your damn mess. it's really quite simple.

I understand how he'd be ticking the route. It's a testpiece. He's hanging on it a lot.

But I don't get why Angry would assume that Steph would be making tic marks on a free solo. I've not done a lot of soloing, but when I have, I don't spend a lot of time hanging out, marking holds. Not saying she did or didn't, or making any judgment about either - just not clear on why a free-soloist would be a likely candidate to point the finger at? Seems like a free soloist would be the least likely, no?

GO


Partner cracklover


Sep 11, 2007, 12:54 PM
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And now that I think of it, camhead, what makes you think he didn't clean it up afterward? If the photo was of Dean working the route, it makes sense he might be ticking it with the intent of cleaning it after, no?

GO


zeke_sf


Sep 11, 2007, 1:03 PM
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Dammit, Angry! You almost made me listen to Odub. Fortunately, my work computer's volume is down.


Partner angry


Sep 11, 2007, 1:10 PM
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I assume it was her because of the route itself.

Most people don't just hang out and get 10c (or 11a) ruthlessly wired at 13,000+ feet. They get on the route and climb on. If they fall or take, no biggie, keep moving cause the lightning could come any time. I highly doubt that the average climber (and this is an average climbers route) would lower off a pitch, tick it up, and try to resend it. This is alpine.

Now imagine you want to solo this route and have all the time in the world. Go up there one day with a partner and rehearse the moves, not because it's hard but because it's for a solo and you don't want to screw up. Pro's are chalk fucking crazy and even worse with ticks, so bam the route get ticked up. She comes back the next day with the solo.

Your logic follows if it were an onsight free solo or an impromtu thing. That may have been the case and I may be pointing at the wrong person, given the situation, I bet I'm not.


sed


Sep 11, 2007, 1:27 PM
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i agreed tix suck. there's so much talk about how unsightley bolts are and yet tick marks and chalk are rarely questioned, accepted as part of the sport. I don't know why poeple use so much of it, seems like most climbers just chalk up so they have something to focus on when they are freaking out. It's not magic dust and for the average 5.10 climber is rarely necessary.
S


camhead


Sep 11, 2007, 1:45 PM
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cracklover wrote:
And now that I think of it, camhead, what makes you think he didn't clean it up afterward? If the photo was of Dean working the route, it makes sense he might be ticking it with the intent of cleaning it after, no?

GO

you're right, Gabe.

tell you what, I'll hike up to hong Kong Phooey next week with a pair of binocs and let you know whether he cleaned the ticks or not.

care to make any predictions?

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