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the_climber
Sep 14, 2007, 7:52 PM
Post #101 of 2012
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Registered: Oct 9, 2003
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Molly Malones next thurday it is then.... only I will be a few thousand km away and won't be able to make it... though chances are very high that I will be drunker than the rest of you... gotta love weddings and the drunkeness!
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winter
Sep 14, 2007, 7:56 PM
Post #102 of 2012
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Registered: Apr 9, 2003
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Damn it JR, I would love to get out on Sunday but I am taking the baby horse to a show. So did you guys have fun last night or what?
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dan2see
Sep 16, 2007, 6:04 AM
Post #103 of 2012
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Registered: Mar 29, 2006
Posts: 1497
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skinner wrote: ... And last weekend, while you guys were all out climbing, *I* made a door stop.
...
*You* think that's a door stop.
*I* think that's a portable rap station.
Just take it with you, and you always have a way down.
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skinner
Sep 16, 2007, 10:45 PM
Post #104 of 2012
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Registered: Nov 1, 2004
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I know it looks like *overkill* for a door stop, but.. you cannot drill a smaller rock and tighten an expansion bolt in it, or like on my first (3) attempts, you end up with a pile of spilt rocks!
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jumpingrock
Sep 17, 2007, 12:42 PM
Post #105 of 2012
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
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Another great day in the ghost yesterday! Led my first (soft) 10b on a 4 pitch 10a,10b,10b,9 on phenomenal rock!
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rockguide
Sep 17, 2007, 2:03 PM
Post #106 of 2012
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Registered: Nov 8, 2004
Posts: 1359
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jumpingrock wrote: Another great day in the ghost yesterday! Led my first (soft) 10b on a 4 pitch 10a,10b,10b,9 on phenomenal rock!
Heidis with Hiltis?
Just missed you - I was in the South Ghost.
B
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jumpingrock
Sep 17, 2007, 2:22 PM
Post #107 of 2012
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
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rockguide wrote: jumpingrock wrote: Another great day in the ghost yesterday! Led my first (soft) 10b on a 4 pitch 10a,10b,10b,9 on phenomenal rock! Heidis with Hiltis? Just missed you - I was in the South Ghost. B
I never know the names of the climbs I do, that's probably it though.
You didn't miss us. We were hiding from you. ;-)
How was Wraith?
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the_climber
Sep 17, 2007, 4:19 PM
Post #108 of 2012
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Registered: Oct 9, 2003
Posts: 6142
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Finally got into Uper Kan Lakes to climb Joy yesterday... Read every bit of the description except the "Not Recomended on Windy Days" Part
Actually the wind didn't pic up till about the half way point... BOOTY GEAR EVERYWHERE! I just added a few pieces to my rack! Woot Woot!
Stellar route, but remember to pack your extra calves cause your first set will burn out fast . I think we climbed it in 6 pitches including the ridge section, we would have done the slabs in 4, but our ropes got stuck in the corner crack and we had to set up another belay to free them. Grrrr. Fucking stuck ropes! Good times though. *hours car to car with a stuck rope, taking a long lunch (at the ONLY ledge one pitch from the top of the slab) and over all taking our time especially on the aproach and decent. It would be very easy to shove at least 2 hours off that time... or more.... especially if you ditched any gear above a #2.5 friend and doubled or trippled up your TCU's to #2 Friend, and a single 2.5 Friend + a half set of nuts... Do that and bring about 20 or so slings and the route will go in 2 pitches... simu of course.
I'll upload a pic or two laterz
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the_climber
Sep 17, 2007, 5:21 PM
Post #109 of 2012
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Registered: Oct 9, 2003
Posts: 6142
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To Claim the first official posting of Drinking and Extreme 5.4 Climbing by an Extreme 5.4 Climber of this thread...
I Give you Photo Proof.....
Of both the Climbing:
And the Drinking after:
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Attachments:
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Joy.JPG
(100 KB)
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Joy-R.JPG
(120 KB)
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AfterClimbDrinking.JPG
(103 KB)
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binrat
Sep 17, 2007, 5:26 PM
Post #110 of 2012
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Registered: Jul 27, 2006
Posts: 1155
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At least you are drinking a good beer
Binrat
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jumpingrock
Sep 17, 2007, 5:40 PM
Post #112 of 2012
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 5692
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Nice photos! What does Joy go at?
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the_climber
Sep 17, 2007, 6:01 PM
Post #113 of 2012
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Registered: Oct 9, 2003
Posts: 6142
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What does Joy go at you ask....
Why, 5.4 of course.
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rockguide
Sep 17, 2007, 7:25 PM
Post #114 of 2012
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Registered: Nov 8, 2004
Posts: 1359
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the_climber wrote: What does Joy go at you ask.... Why, 5.4 of course.
Thanks for the inspiring pic!
I will try that beer.
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rockguide
Sep 17, 2007, 7:28 PM
Post #115 of 2012
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Registered: Nov 8, 2004
Posts: 1359
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jumpingrock wrote: rockguide wrote: jumpingrock wrote: Another great day in the ghost yesterday! Led my first (soft) 10b on a 4 pitch 10a,10b,10b,9 on phenomenal rock! Heidis with Hiltis? Just missed you - I was in the South Ghost. B I never know the names of the climbs I do, that's probably it though. You didn't miss us. We were hiding from you. ;-) How was Wraith?
Good idea hiding from me. I would have tried to steal your beer .... later, later
Wraith was excellent - Continous 5.4 climbing, run out 40 inches between bolts and we had a beer afterwards.
I was satisfied with my ghost climbing experience. It was all I wanted it to be.
B
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skinner
Sep 17, 2007, 8:04 PM
Post #116 of 2012
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Registered: Nov 1, 2004
Posts: 1747
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the_climber wrote: To Claim the first official posting of Drinking and Extreme 5.4 Climbing by an Extreme 5.4 Climber of this thread... I Give you Photo Proof..... Of both the Climbing: And the Drinking after:
rockguide wrote: Continous 5.4 climbing, run out 40 inches between bolts and we had a beer afterwards.
You boys have done the Bow Valley Drinking & Extreme 5.4 Climbing fraternity proud,.. Very proud indeed! I'll buy ya a beer of your choice on Thursday 
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skinner
Sep 17, 2007, 9:04 PM
Post #118 of 2012
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Registered: Nov 1, 2004
Posts: 1747
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We all know that 5.4 on Rockies Limestone is about 5.10 on that eastern granite stuff, so you can share the *real* grade with us when you get back
Remeber now, you are representing us there, we expect nothing less then full on-your-face drunkeness. And I'll buy ya that beer as soon as you get back,
Have Fun!
PS: I think you should name your FA there, "Invasion of the Bow Valley Extreme 5.4 Climbers"
(This post was edited by skinner on Sep 18, 2007, 12:46 PM)
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jumpingrock
Sep 18, 2007, 2:35 PM
Post #119 of 2012
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 5692
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Oooo my head...
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rockguide
Sep 18, 2007, 3:15 PM
Post #120 of 2012
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Registered: Nov 8, 2004
Posts: 1359
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jumpingrock wrote: Oooo my head...
A little bottle flu?
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jumpingrock
Sep 18, 2007, 3:32 PM
Post #121 of 2012
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 5692
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rockguide wrote: jumpingrock wrote: Oooo my head... A little bottle flu?
Mostly can flu actually... My head was a splitting mess at 4am and 8:30 when I actually got up but now it seems to have found a equilibrium between hurting and pounding.
Great Party though! Super laid back and relaxed, my favorite kind.
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the_climber
Sep 18, 2007, 5:18 PM
Post #122 of 2012
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Registered: Oct 9, 2003
Posts: 6142
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jumpingrock wrote: rockguide wrote: jumpingrock wrote: Oooo my head... A little bottle flu? Mostly can flu actually... My head was a splitting mess at 4am and 8:30 when I actually got up but now it seems to have found a equilibrium between hurting and pounding. Great Party though! Super laid back and relaxed, my favorite kind.
Hey sorry we didn't make it to the party Dave. Man, it is CRAZY trying to get everything don't before leaving on a trip! It doesn't help that I"ve been procrastinating on SO many things for the past few weeks too.
My B-day is on the 1st (it's on a Monday  ) of next month, but we will either be celebrating the Saturday before or after... anyone willing to pitch in for a pony keg and have a BBQ and bonfire in my back yard for my B-day?
Could be fun.
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the_climber
Sep 18, 2007, 10:24 PM
Post #123 of 2012
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Registered: Oct 9, 2003
Posts: 6142
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I'm off the Grid till Thurs of next week. Make sure you somebody drinks a Guinness in my name on Thus at MM's.
Laterz,
B
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skinner
Sep 20, 2007, 4:34 AM
Post #125 of 2012
(12440 views)
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Registered: Nov 1, 2004
Posts: 1747
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So.. who's going?
Thursday September 20/07
Molly Malone's in Kensington
8:00'ish
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