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lucander
Sep 21, 2007, 12:21 PM
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What are your favorite routes of the grade at Rumney?
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rock_fencer
Sep 21, 2007, 1:26 PM
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Peer Pressure 10d
Lonesome Dove 10b
Waimea 10d
Would round up my top 3
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dominic7
Sep 21, 2007, 2:41 PM
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I was on Millenium Falcon last weekend which was very nice.
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wonderwoman
Sep 21, 2007, 2:56 PM
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Waimea, 10d - just plain beautiful and fun
Idiot's Deluxe, 10c? - very interesting huecos and roof jugs at the top. I just love this climb!
Oh, and Lonesome Dove! I even named my jewelry website after it! (Yes, this is shameless self promotion - please see my website!)
(This post was edited by wonderwoman on Sep 21, 2007, 3:02 PM)
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cracklover
Sep 21, 2007, 3:50 PM
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Hey Dave!
Here're my top 10:
1 - Millenium Falcon. Uses every trick in the book. (Main Cliff)
2 - Under Dog. Just pure fun. (Main Cliff)
3 - Waimea. Intricate climbing on vertical ridges. (Main Cliff)
4 - Centerpiece. Great route. Full value! The most pumped you'll ever get on a 10 at Rumney. This route will work you over!
5 - Jolt/Dolt. I dunno - one of 'em is supposed to be a 10. Do 'em both and decide for yourself.
6 - Armed and Dangerous and Off my Medication.
7 - Lonesome Dove. I can't think of a better way to describe it than "pretty climbing".
8 - Cannery Row. It's rated 5.11b, but is definitely a 5.10. Probably around 10a/b. Anyway, long and varied climbing through several different strata of rock. The style of climbing switches radically as you go.
9 - Debbie Does CPR is short but sweet, and would be 5.10 at the Gunks.
Okay, I only got to 8, but that should keep you busy a while.
And best cliff for 5.10 climbing: Main Cliff. I could easily list off 10 superb 5.10 routes just in the Main Cliff area.
Cheers!
GO
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olderic
Sep 21, 2007, 4:00 PM
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cracklover wrote: Hey Dave! Here're my top 10: 1 - Millenium Falcon. Uses every trick in the book. (Main Cliff) 2 - Under Dog. Just pure fun. (Main Cliff) 3 - Waimea. Intricate climbing on vertical ridges. (Main Cliff) 4 - Centerpiece. Great route. Full value! The most pumped you'll ever get on a 10 at Rumney. This route will work you over! 5 - Jolt/Dolt. I dunno - one of 'em is supposed to be a 10. Do 'em both and decide for yourself. 6 - Armed and Dangerous and Off my Medication. 7 - Lonesome Dove. I can't think of a better way to describe it than "pretty climbing". 8 - Cannery Row. It's rated 5.11b, but is definitely a 5.10. Probably around 10a/b. Anyway, long and varied climbing through several different strata of rock. The style of climbing switches radically as you go. 9 - Debbie Does CPR is short but sweet, and would be 5.10 at the Gunks. Okay, I only got to 8, but that should keep you busy a while. And best cliff for 5.10 climbing: Main Cliff. I could easily list off 10 superb 5.10 routes just in the Main Cliff area. Cheers! GO
You were doing well until you gave the location for #3. But after that you stopped giving locations at all - maybe the location finder was on the fritz? Main Cliff is good for 10;s, so is Bonsai.
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ant_zacchino
Sep 21, 2007, 4:17 PM
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I can't believe no one mentioned Romancing the Stone 10c @ the 5.8 crag.
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wonderwoman
Sep 21, 2007, 4:33 PM
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ant_zacchino wrote: I can't believe no one mentioned Romancing the Stone 10c @ the 5.8 crag.
That's a good one! I hear the 'stone' fell out, though. How sad!
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cracklover
Sep 21, 2007, 4:50 PM
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Oops, thanks for the catch, Eric! Let me try again:
1 - Millenium Falcon. Uses every trick in the book. (Main Cliff)
2 - Under Dog. Just pure fun. (Main Cliff)
3 - Waimea. Intricate climbing on vertical ridges. (Waimea)
4 - Centerpiece. Great route. Full value! The most pumped you'll ever get on a 10 at Rumney. This route will work you over!(Bonsai)
5 - Jolt/Dolt. I dunno - one of 'em is supposed to be a 10. Do 'em both and decide for yourself.(Hinterlands)
6 - Armed and Dangerous and Off my Medication.(Main)
7 - Lonesome Dove. I can't think of a better way to describe it than "pretty climbing".(Jimmy Cliff)
8 - Cannery Row. It's rated 5.11b, but is definitely a 5.10. Probably around 10a/b. Anyway, long and varied climbing through several different strata of rock. The style of climbing switches radically as you go.(Yellowknife Buttress)
9 - Debbie Does CPR is short but sweet, and would be 5.10 at the Gunks.(New Wave)
GO
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tradmanclimbs
Sep 21, 2007, 4:56 PM
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Under Dog, Armed and Dangerous, Lonsome Dove.......
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rock_fencer
Sep 22, 2007, 1:08 AM
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Ive led romancing 5 times, twice by headlamp and for the life of me cant get it clean.
Ofcourse now im in IL so who knows when ill get back on it again.
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bent_gate
Sep 22, 2007, 2:04 AM
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wonderwoman wrote: ant_zacchino wrote: I can't believe no one mentioned Romancing the Stone 10c @ the 5.8 crag. That's a good one! I hear the 'stone' fell out, though. How sad!
I really liked that climb as well. I need to get back to Rumney.
(I gotta say though, I don't remember there being a specific "Stone" in Romancing the Stone. I must not have been paying attention  )
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blankflag
Sep 23, 2007, 4:27 PM
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It was that wobbly chockstone up by the 3rd (?) bolt -- on first thought nice to hold onto after the stout opening moves, but then, on second thought... too bad if it has fallen out. The route is ultra-classic, though -- technical, traversy, and pumpy in turn. Gets my vote.
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jakedatc
Sep 24, 2007, 3:19 AM
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Luckily the Stone has made a new home with one of the main members of the Rumney Climbers Association.. so it will not be completely lost.
Peer Pressure... first sport route at rumney.. classic rumney.. fun moves on big holds
Med Dose Madness 10b line just right of Bonehead Roof.. . good crimpy vertical climbing to a funky gap through the finish roof. Super sharp so soft skinned folks need not apply.
(This post was edited by jakedatc on Sep 24, 2007, 3:25 AM)
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