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granite_grrl
Sep 24, 2007, 6:23 PM
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What is the max/min # of moves I should be looking for when working anaerobic enduance. Does it really matter as long as you're burned out after 4-6 runs with timed rests?
I have a home bouldering wall with a long traverse set up on the 20 degree wall of about 35 moves, then a smaller traverse of about 12 moves on the 60 degree wall. I could set more problems, but that takes time (time which I could use for training).
Also, how many days rest do you want before you go away on a trip. I'm looking to head to the Red in a couple of weeks, I don't want to be burned out when I get there. I only started trying to work anaerobic endurance last week at home, when should I stop so I don't hinder my performance on the trip?
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aerili
Sep 25, 2007, 4:38 AM
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Anaerobic state shouldn't really be defined by number of moves per se, the way I would look at it. It depends more on the specific difficulty of the moves for the individual (is it immediately cruxy and then eases, or cumulatively anaerobic/sustained?), how rested you are, how well fed/nutritionally prepped you happen to be, etc. One day more moves might be required to rachet up the intensity, next day less moves. Nature of the moves with regard to your strengths will also factor in to determine 'number.' So perhaps think of it more on a sliding scale. Also, would it matter if you made twenty moves before hitting lactate threshold? After all, this is likely to happen on an actual route (i.e. not bouldering)... but I'm guessing you're trying to save time by using your home wall?
At the same time, consider training on your home wall will transfer most specifically to bouldering and then resting on the ground. Resting en route (unless you are on a giant ledge) will not necessarily give you the same wonderful reprieve as sitting on your carpet. 
In other sports, power endurance training doesn't necessarily involve doing short, full out bursts and then complete, timed rest. To simulate true conditions, often a light, aerobic pace is set with anaerobic bursts thrown in, but recovery has to be under actively moving conditions (therefore, it feels harder).
I typically rest about one week before a trip, although I will often do my regular (non-climbing) workouts for the first half of the week (if approaches could be on the burlier side) or more (if approaches will be cake), although I typically stay away from upper body lifting completely.
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granite_grrl
Sep 25, 2007, 11:29 AM
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Thank you aerili, an excellent answer. I read over the self coached climber and a couple of other articles, but I guess I still felt like I needed some clarification. Neither the shorter problem nor the longer problem have strong cruxes so they should work well. I will just have to decide if I want more powerful training or not.
I use the home wall for training because of location of the closest climbing gyms and avalibility of partners. I would rather be training on routes for routes but I'll try to use the tools I have the best I can.
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jto
Sep 27, 2007, 1:07 PM
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some ideas:
donīt concentrate on moves as aerili stated too. body recognizes time, not moves. keep your reps over two minutes and you are on the right path. roughly:
2-3 minute reps: strength stress AE training
4-6 minute reps: middle range AE training
7- minute reps: endurance stress AE training
SCC recommends having pauses the same length as the reps in general and thatīs pretty ok advice. when you have shorter pauses you stress endurance end more etc. an example of AE workout stressing strength (short reps) but from different aspects:
4x3 min reps/ 2min pauses -> endurance stress
4x3 min reps/ 3min pauses -> middle ground
4x3 min reps/ 4min pauses -> strength stress
on short reps you can do much harder moves than in the long ones and vice versa, of course. this way you can seek out your weaknesses and train accordingly. if youīre going on a road trip and the plan is to climb onsight a lot then you should do more longer reps to simulate the action.
then again if youīre having a redpoint project that requires a lot of hard moves and the actual preformance time is quite short then you should do more of the shorter reps.
AE training is quite specific so you should train on similar ground youīre after. same kind of holds, angle etc. if you donīt know whatīs coming then do a lot of different AE training to stress different abilities.
for general AE create routes or traverses that are sustained without good rests or hard cruxes. climb with steady pace. for a road trip it would be good to simulate onsight climbing by staying on holds a bit longer than usual -> be specific.
this is important as it is usually very easy to climb hard by moving fast but if you jump on the same route (or even easier one) and stay for 10 secs on every hold itīs a totally different wall game.
when you can handle the load (grade) increase the difficulty by altering the hold distance or making them smaller etc. also you have to think in two ways:
- should I try to climb (letīs say) 5.12a for 3 minutes and try to progress to 5.12a for 6 minutes
- should I try to climb (letīs say) 5.11c for 6 minutes and try to progress to 5.12a for 6 minutes
you can do both or even pyramid your sets by doing shorter sets first and then longer ones later on in your workout. this way you can stress different sides of AE. the main thing is to progress.
AE training is different from onsight training as that depends very much on your route reading and movement skills etc. too. you have to keep this in mind when planning your workouts.
cheers
(This post was edited by jto on Sep 27, 2007, 1:17 PM)
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