|
MedicJones
Oct 4, 2007, 8:32 AM
Post #1 of 5
(243 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 26, 2007
Posts: 9
|
Where is the best access to set up toprope for knob wall. I want my son to be able to climb this route.... he's is 11, and loves to climb. I have led it to the anchors before but I don't see a good way from this side of the wall to gain access to the top. We play on Jaws and Holiday (sometimes West Side) alot but I want to be able to set up some other routes for him, I think it may have to be accessed by crossing a boulder field through a crack in the grotto. I am not sure, if anyone knows for sure please post.
|
|
|
|
|
bimmer3ci
Oct 4, 2007, 9:11 AM
Post #2 of 5
(232 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 23, 2007
Posts: 18
|
I'm not gonna lie this is going to be tricky to explain. Stand and face the large boulder in front of Dreamscape. Walk 15 feet to your left. Make a 180 degree rotation so that you are facing north or pretty close. There will be a narrow passage that goes maybe 40 feet. At the end of the passage there is a boulder with a small exit above your head. Climb through this exit. Now you will hava bit of a scramble over some boulders. Your objective is to head about 20-30 feet to the West or pretty close to west. Behind the large rock face there is a slab that has fallen. It is sitting at a 45 degree angle right against the bigger rock face that is facing North or Northwest. Go in between the rock face and the diagonally slanted slab or boulder to gain access to the top.
If this does not help i'm sorry, maybe someone knows an easier way. Good Luck!! 
|
|
|
|
|
saxfiend
Oct 4, 2007, 9:44 AM
Post #3 of 5
(217 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 30, 2004
Posts: 1190
|
MedicJones wrote: I have led it to the anchors before but I don't see a good way from this side of the wall to gain access to the top.
JL
|
|
|
|
|
MedicJones
Oct 4, 2007, 1:04 PM
Post #4 of 5
(196 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 26, 2007
Posts: 9
|
No probably not missing anything. I am in the process of trying to teach my son how to set topropes and the more experience he gets in different situations the better off he will be. Also not my favorite route to lead because of the first 20-30 feet being difficult or impossible to protect, but once you get past that it is easy to protect. In my field you learn first hand how bad even minor falls from suprisingly low heights can be. Also, I do not like the shuts at the top, they are a little rough and have fuzzed up the shell on my ropes on previous pulls through after the final cleaning ascent/rappell. I enjoy the route and I would like to be able to let my son enjoy it as well, besides the view from the top of that rock would be worth the scramble for anyone. I always seem to forget to take in the view when climbing.
|
|
|
|
|
saxfiend
Oct 4, 2007, 4:02 PM
Post #5 of 5
(168 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 30, 2004
Posts: 1190
|
Hmmm, I guess you and I have a different take on Knob Wall; I consider it well-protected all the way, and I've never had any rope damage from the shuts. In light of that, the only suggestion I can make is to either use the scramble directions the other guy posted (good luck!), or just show up and ask someone how to get up there.
JL
|
|
|
|
|
|
