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dean585


Oct 6, 2001, 6:06 PM
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Registered: Aug 11, 2001
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Speed climbing/Training
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Recently a couple of my climbing buddies have designed their own training program incorporating speed climbing on two out of three days they train. I think they do two routes that they are familiar with and speed climb them. I dont incorporate this into any of my training cause I always feel like I scrimp on technique and have never been a slow climber anyway. The only time I really try to rush through anything is on overhangs where I know Ill get pumped out quickly. They said they read this in a book on climbing but I havent been able to find it and really want to find out about the benefits of this. So if any of you have done this regularly and have experienced a major improvement, I would love to know all about it. They have been climbing better latley anyway so it seems to be pretty beneficial. Also if any of you do speed climb to train how often do you do it and do you do it on real rock or in the gym. Also what does this train. I usually boulder and use fingerboards for finger/contact strength, gym climbing and climbing outdoors 3 times a week, and just regular circuit training at my regular gym that i have been doing for years for general fitness not climbing.


daisuke


Oct 6, 2001, 6:19 PM
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Registered: Aug 27, 2001
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I don't know about speed climbing, I guess it would be ok if you're very familiar with the route but it's not something I'd try, I like to take routes slowly and deliberately, you know... like a sloth, slow but well placed moves, one at a time reaches, besides, the slow movement puts dynamic tension on the muscles and helps strengthen. speed climbing might build up resistance though

I can't imagine speed bouldering without a barn door every 5 moves, slow and sure is how I like it (climbing!! what are you thinking of )


Partner pianomahnn


Oct 6, 2001, 7:27 PM
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It's been my experience with speed climbing, that, well, it hurts my elbows. I still do it every now and then, because it's one heck of a cardiovascular workout.


c_plante


Oct 10, 2001, 12:30 AM
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Wouldn't it be better to climb smoothly and safely then quickly?


Partner missedyno


Nov 22, 2001, 3:23 PM
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yeah, i could go to the gym and climb for the rest of the night, but if i don't get in a few laps on at least a 5.8, i barely notice an improvement.
not too crazy about the speed of things, but laps will most definitely build endurance and strength


awkward


Nov 23, 2001, 1:56 PM
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Controlled lapping is good for the endurance. I like to incorporate a few laps here and there when possible. The gym I go to uses Gri-gri's though, so unless you find an experienced belayer, lapping is not too safe. Or at least that has been my experience.

-Bryan


Partner missedyno


Nov 24, 2001, 11:00 AM
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no hip belay?


beta


Nov 24, 2001, 8:24 PM
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I've done that a few times, climbed as fast as I can (at the gym) usually one grade level lower than I am comfortable with normally, big holds, no thinking, and climbed, got lowered as fast as is safe and climbed again until I couldn't do it anymore. Great cardio work out. I didn't feel like I got hit by a bus the next day (kinda cool), and fun too.

I don't know if this has done me any good, but it breaks the monotony.

Jeff


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