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scotchie
Oct 17, 2007, 7:01 PM
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Registered: Jul 31, 2004
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Anyone have any beta on a good place to learn and practice offwidth and squeeze chimneys, in or near AZ? I encounter these periodically in multipitch routes, usually on lead, and I have realized I need to do some work and practice. I'm looking for something that can be toproped. On lead I usually look for a way to bypass the section, instead of enduring the grunt and dangle approach that's usually required when learning to crack climb. So far I have found: - Chimney section in Phoenix Rock Gym - Y-Crack at Pinnacle Peak - A couple short sections of multi-pitch routes in the McDowells and the Superstitions
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vegastradguy
Oct 17, 2007, 7:29 PM
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
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head up to paradise forks. not a ton of them up there, but a few to be sure, and everything there can be TR'd. Supercrack is the premiere offwidth up there, and the Prow has a short OW at the bottom of it. Red Rock and Jtree also have more than their share, and neither are all that far from phoenix.
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sed
Oct 20, 2007, 4:51 AM
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Registered: Aug 3, 2003
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i put up some routes in west clear creek that fit this bill, some you can tr, other's multipitch. i could let you know the next time I go. Scott
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sonso45
Oct 22, 2007, 5:29 PM
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Registered: Sep 1, 2002
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Try sedona, it's home to some fine OW, the mace comes to mind. There is stuff all over there. How hard an OW you looking for?
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pyrosis
Mar 10, 2008, 2:48 PM
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Registered: Apr 1, 2004
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That's funny... After climbing the Mace yesterday I was thinking the same thought: I need to practice my OW.. I guess I could just go do the mace again! Firecat Spire N Face also has some mean OW and squeeze. A bit more mellow stuff can be found at Oak Creek Overlook: Grunt N Dangle (5.7), Jelly Roll (5.8), George's Niche (5.8), The Horn (5.8), and Blunderbuss (5.9) are just a few of the routes that involve OW or squeeze cruxes. Orange Out Direct (5.9) also has an awesome chimney crux through a roof but that one is more like 3' wide. Have fun! -Tavis
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el_layclimber
Mar 10, 2008, 3:12 PM
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Registered: Jan 9, 2006
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Crack of Doom, at Granite Dells in Prescott, goes from fingers to squeeze chimney. I am pretty sure it's possible to walk up the back side if you want to TR it.
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