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Offwidth and squeeze chimney practice routes in AZ
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scotchie


Oct 17, 2007, 12:01 PM
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Offwidth and squeeze chimney practice routes in AZ  (North_America: United_States: Arizona)
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Anyone have any beta on a good place to learn and practice offwidth and squeeze chimneys, in or near AZ? I encounter these periodically in multipitch routes, usually on lead, and I have realized I need to do some work and practice.

I'm looking for something that can be toproped. On lead I usually look for a way to bypass the section, instead of enduring the grunt and dangle approach that's usually required when learning to crack climb.

So far I have found:
- Chimney section in Phoenix Rock Gym
- Y-Crack at Pinnacle Peak
- A couple short sections of multi-pitch routes in the McDowells and the Superstitions


vegastradguy


Oct 17, 2007, 12:29 PM
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Re: [scotchie] Offwidth and squeeze chimney practice routes in AZ [In reply to]
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head up to paradise forks. not a ton of them up there, but a few to be sure, and everything there can be TR'd. Supercrack is the premiere offwidth up there, and the Prow has a short OW at the bottom of it.

Red Rock and Jtree also have more than their share, and neither are all that far from phoenix.


sed


Oct 19, 2007, 9:51 PM
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Re: [scotchie] Offwidth and squeeze chimney practice routes in AZ [In reply to]
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i put up some routes in west clear creek that fit this bill, some you can tr, other's multipitch. i could let you know the next time I go.
Scott


sonso45


Oct 22, 2007, 10:29 AM
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Re: [sed] Offwidth and squeeze chimney practice routes in AZ [In reply to]
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Try sedona, it's home to some fine OW, the mace comes to mind. There is stuff all over there. How hard an OW you looking for?


pyrosis


Mar 10, 2008, 7:48 AM
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Re: [sonso45] Offwidth and squeeze chimney practice routes in AZ [In reply to]
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That's funny... After climbing the Mace yesterday I was thinking the same thought: I need to practice my OW.. I guess I could just go do the mace again! Firecat Spire N Face also has some mean OW and squeeze. A bit more mellow stuff can be found at Oak Creek Overlook: Grunt N Dangle (5.7), Jelly Roll (5.8), George's Niche (5.8), The Horn (5.8), and Blunderbuss (5.9) are just a few of the routes that involve OW or squeeze cruxes. Orange Out Direct (5.9) also has an awesome chimney crux through a roof but that one is more like 3' wide.

Have fun!

-Tavis


el_layclimber


Mar 10, 2008, 8:12 AM
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Re: [scotchie] Offwidth and squeeze chimney practice routes in AZ [In reply to]
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Crack of Doom, at Granite Dells in Prescott, goes from fingers to squeeze chimney. I am pretty sure it's possible to walk up the back side if you want to TR it.


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