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elepita
Oct 18, 2007, 9:57 AM
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Hi all, I made a search and didn't find anything so here it goes: I am really good at lock-offs but suck at dynos and dynamic moves, they don't have to be huge dynos, I suck anyway. Is there a way to train to get better at dynamic moves, is there a secret out there I don't know about? It really drains you to do a static move to that pocket when it would be so much better to get dynamically to it...thanks in advance for your help.
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fearlessclimber
Oct 18, 2007, 10:19 PM
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Honestly just suck it up and stick it, thats what i do.
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microbarn
Oct 18, 2007, 10:22 PM
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elepita wrote: Hi all, I made a search and didn't find anything so here it goes: I am really good at lock-offs but suck at dynos and dynamic moves, they don't have to be huge dynos, I suck anyway. Is there a way to train to get better at dynamic moves, is there a secret out there I don't know about? It really drains you to do a static move to that pocket when it would be so much better to get dynamically to it...thanks in advance for your help.
commit all the way to it. If you are decided you are going to do a dynamic move, then you are going to fall if you miss. So, commit completely to grabbing it. That is the only way you won't fall off.
Practice doing small ones and work up in size.
Oh, that and "Stop your whining and grab the freaking hold!"
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catskillshiker
Oct 18, 2007, 11:24 PM
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Working your calf muscles with quick reps is supposed to give you more of a "jump" A personal trainer at the fitness center I go to was telling me that.
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gunkiemike
Oct 18, 2007, 11:32 PM
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Do some research on plyometrics.
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gollum
Oct 18, 2007, 11:36 PM
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stagger for footholds, focus, swing for momentum (if needed) try the move, always keep focused!
this is from a DVD called pro tips
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icedpulleys
Oct 19, 2007, 12:36 AM
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Dynamic moves require strength. Practice on burly, overhanging boulder problems, and that will translate to sport/trad.
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penoyar
Oct 19, 2007, 1:55 AM
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Confidence. Sounds like Jack Lalanne, but it's really the most important aspect. If you miss a dyno, it's because you
1. Aren't powerful enough to get to the hold.
2. Get to the hold and slip off. Or most commonly
3. Extend yourself timidly and flop towards it.
Since you're real good at lock offs, your hands are most definitely strong enough. If you find yourself coming up short of the hold, you either need more strength or huger balls. For strength, plyometrics (stairs, boxes, explosion, recoil, etc) are really great. I come from an american football background with lots of plyos and find they transfer over well to a lot of sports. And if it's balls you need, microbarn's right on, start easy and work-up. Most bouldering dynos are moderate to hard, so maybe try jumping to grab a pull-up bar, i don't know. Keep your head up, and if dynos don't work out for you, there's still plenty of sick lines to send.
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jt512
Oct 19, 2007, 1:58 AM
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So far, the advice in this thread has been worth every penny.
Jay
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bwareofhghts
Oct 19, 2007, 2:19 AM
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You should first find a dyno that you can stick no matter how small it is. Do the dyno then down climb to the start hold of it. Do it again and again. Keep doing this until you could do about 15-20 dynos in a row without getting off the wall. After that try to do it blind folded( Its scary). Then move on to bigger dynos.
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shu
Oct 19, 2007, 3:35 AM
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Dynos are for Fairies.
Seriously though, it's much better style to do things statically than to dyno.
Most people dyno because they CAN'T do the move static. If you CAN then quit your bitching.
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curt
Oct 19, 2007, 4:24 AM
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shu wrote: Dynos are for Fairies. Seriously though, it's much better style to do things statically than to dyno. Most people dyno because they CAN'T do the move static. If you CAN then quit your bitching.
A great Troll or a complete fucking idiot--good entertainment either way.
Curt
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flint
Oct 19, 2007, 5:25 AM
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shu wrote: Dynos are for Fairies. Seriously though, it's much better style to do things statically than to dyno. Most people dyno because they CAN'T do the move static. If you CAN then quit your bitching.
umm...... nope....... good troll as curt said, or just poor humor
j-
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overlord
Oct 19, 2007, 8:24 AM
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well, with dynos, legs provide the most power, arms mostly steer the move.
i suggest starting with small dynos on good holds so you get the basic idea. also, for the start, make sure you have two good footholds as it will make creating the momentum in the right direction much easier.
you should also be aware that dynos from slopers are much more difficult than dynost from positive holds. with slopers you can only generate inward force at the beginning of the move (while you are still low enough for the hold to resist the outward pull on it) and this means that the execution must be much more precise than when you are using positive holds.
start by having both hands on jugs, two good footholds and a hold that is close enought to reach staticly. then DO NOT make a static move. move a bit away from the hold target hold to create room for the move, drive with your legs towards the target and steer with your arms. ideally, you should reach the target when you are at the apex of the dyno (also called a deadpoint) as this is the only way to make dynos to difficult holds. you should practise that bit from the start as you will learn to be precise with the power supplied. once you learn to overshoot, it will be hard to unlearn
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mturner
Oct 19, 2007, 4:39 PM
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bwareofhghts wrote: After that try to do it blind folded( Its scary).
Yeah climbing blindfolded is really good advice. You never know when you're gonna lose both eyes or when a solar eclipse will randomly happen so you want to be prepared. Also, if you're a big pussy, you won't want to be able to see the ground on a big dyno so closing your eyes will come naturally. In fact, I recommend just gouging out your eyes right now, they're useless.
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lena_chita
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Oct 19, 2007, 5:12 PM
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shu wrote: Dynos are for Fairies. Seriously though, it's much better style to do things statically than to dyno. Most people dyno because they CAN'T do the move static. If you CAN then quit your bitching.
Yeah, right...
Bummer! I actually opened this thread hoping to see some useful advice... Should have known better.
I am struggling with dynos, too. And I NEED them.
Elepita, if there is someone you trust for beta and technique tips, ask them to watch you when you dyno and see if they notice something being "off"... Like maybe the timing of letting go of the holds, wrong " trajectory", initiating the move differently, different foot placement. There is this one guy at our gym (the gym owner, to be precise)-- on few occasions when I was stymied with dynos, I asked him what I was doing wrong, and it was always something subtle, but his suggestions ALWAYS seem to work...
One of the things I noticed, too-- if you can climb past the dyno and grab the finishing hold (if you are doing it at the gym), hanging off of that hold as if I had stuck the dyno gives me a better idea of where I should END UP -- where my feet should be, the best position to grab, etc. If I then focus exactly on the spot I am going for, it seems to make a difference.
Oh, and visualization. Hard to explain, but "see" yourself doing it before you actually do it...
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sidepull
Oct 19, 2007, 6:54 PM
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curt wrote: shu wrote: Dynos are for Fairies. Seriously though, it's much better style to do things statically than to dyno. Most people dyno because they CAN'T do the move static. If you CAN then quit your bitching. A great Troll or a complete fucking idiot--good entertainment either way. Curt
come on curt, that's not a good troll, where's the slightly mispelled words and the vague ignorance that alludes to too much knowledge. it's just faggotry.
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slcliffdiver
Oct 19, 2007, 10:31 PM
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I took a few classes on dyno technique a million years ago. Here's what I remember.
(First take a class if you can).
Practice one handed climbing at the gym (near vertical to slightly overhanging on big holds): Every moves a dyno and you can't cheet the throw to the next hold because you can't steer to it with your other hand. Don't go for difficulty it's about timing, balance and movement. Our instructors had us do a lot of one handed traversing. While I found that useful to an extent I think moving to toproping sections of the wall one handed after I got the feel for one handed traversing helped a good bit.
Pretend you are going to take a long time to grab the next hold:
Generally you want to throw to the point where you'll fall away from the hold you are dynoing a slowly as possible.
On moves that aren't too steep you can rock your hips away from the wall on straight arm(s) let your hips rock back into the wall and push off with your feet. If you time it just right you don't need to steer at all with your hand on the way up and you end up balanced on your foot/feet with your body just touching or almost touching the wall and you reach and grab the hold with all the time in the world (the mindset that throws you to the best place) before you fall away.
On your way in before you push off you do something my instructors called a whip. Basically you allow the lower part of your body to roll in first a bit before you start pushing with your feet and the rest off your body follows basically like a whip. I think basically you pull in with your feet while letting your body relax a bit, push off with your feet, then apply core tension on the catch.
The above is basically the idealized version of what we were supposed to learn to get a feel for for the throw.
For the catch one thing I started doing for practice was to do whatever I needed to get myself on the hold I wanted to grab onto then find the most relaxing position and body tension to hold on to it and let that sink into my body. Then when I did the throw I'd let myself be thrown into that position.
I'm pretty sure I improved on a difficulty level but the thing I like the most after the course was that dyno's turned from seeming like a short burst power expenditure to a way to do something in the most relaxed fluid way I could. Also dyno's stopped being mini breaks in the buzz I got from the rythm of weight shifts and instead let me stay in the buzz.
Have fun
David
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desertwanderer81
Oct 19, 2007, 11:03 PM
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MOST dynos are just flashy and could have been done statically. Honestly, I've never come across a situation where you HAD to dyno.
Regardless of this however, the poster was both a troll and an asshole.
Anyhow for the people training on dynos, good luck, it takes a lot of skill and power to hit them just right and I have respect for people who can hit them consistantly.
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jt512
Oct 20, 2007, 12:45 AM
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A 5.9 climber wrote: MOST dynos are just flashy and could have been done statically. Honestly, I've never come across a situation where you HAD to dyno.
MOST static moves are inefficient and could be* done dynamically. Honestly, I've never come across a situation where you'd want to static a move if you could do it dynamically.
Jay
*I just couldn't make myself mimic the poor grammar here.
(This post was edited by jt512 on Oct 20, 2007, 12:46 AM)
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desertwanderer81
Oct 20, 2007, 1:13 AM
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jt512 wrote: A 5.9 climber wrote: MOST dynos are just flashy and could have been done statically. Honestly, I've never come across a situation where you HAD to dyno. MOST static moves are inefficient and could be* done dynamically. Honestly, I've never come across a situation where you'd want to static a move if you could do it dynamically. Jay *I just couldn't make myself mimic the poor grammar here.
wow, YAY!! go you!!! King of the internet, whew. I hope I never make that mistake again but if I do, I know Jay will be here to save the day.
That and your head is in your ass if you actually believe what you wrote about dynamic moves.
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climb_eng
Oct 20, 2007, 1:33 AM
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Bullshit, Dynos are ususally done by climbers who lack good technique. They're a trick for egotistical strongmen, and nothing more. You hardly ever see Lynn Hill dyno.
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jt512
Oct 20, 2007, 1:40 AM
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climb_eng wrote: Bullshit, Dynos are ususally done by climbers who lack good technique. They're a trick for egotistical strongmen, and nothing more.
And being a 10c climber, just how would you know?
In reply to: You hardly ever see Lynn Hill dyno.
Precisely how many times have you actually seen Lynn Hill climb?
Jay
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jt512
Oct 20, 2007, 1:44 AM
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desertwanderer81 wrote: jt512 wrote: A 5.9 climber wrote: MOST dynos are just flashy and could have been done statically. Honestly, I've never come across a situation where you HAD to dyno. MOST static moves are inefficient and could be* done dynamically. Honestly, I've never come across a situation where you'd want to static a move if you could do it dynamically. Jay *I just couldn't make myself mimic the poor grammar here. wow, YAY!! go you!!! King of the internet, whew. I hope I never make that mistake again but if I do, I know Jay will be here to save the day. That and your head is in your ass if you actually believe what you wrote about dynamic moves.
If you maintain that attitude toward dynos, you will not progress much beyond easy 5.11 sport climbing; and if you maintain that attitude toward people, you might not progress much beyond adolescence.
Jay
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