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rock_wired


Oct 23, 2007, 6:52 PM
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What's the pro's and con's of stainless steel hardware vs. plated hardware? Obviously the price of the plated is appealing, but I'm also interested in keeping my rock free of garbage.


sbaclimber


Oct 23, 2007, 7:07 PM
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rock_wired wrote:
What's the pro's and con's of stainless steel hardware vs. plated hardware? Obviously the price of the plated is appealing, but I'm also interested in keeping my rock free of garbage.
Basically, as the name would imply, stainless steel doesn't corrode as much/fast as galv, hence much longer lifespan of the hardware.

That aside, two other things should be considered:
1) is the hardware from a reputable manufacturer and rated?
2) don't mix metals!!!! Don't put in a stainless bolt, and then a plated hanger, or vice-versa. That is worse than using all galv.

Do some (A LOT) of reading up on everything related to bolting. The answers are out there and easy to find on your own.
Even better, once you have read everything you can, find someone who knows what they are talking about to show you how to "keep [your] rock free of garbage"Wink


rock_wired


Oct 23, 2007, 7:45 PM
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I'm looking at a deal from FIXE hangers: 100 hangers for $110. According to the website: "A stainless hanger will not indicate possible corrosion of the plated steel bolt. FIXE plated hangers are as strong as any of the competition's stainless models." If this is really the case, it sounds good. Good advice also. I'm reading everything I can find on the subject, but the absence of local climbers/bolters is pushing me to the books & balls method.


sbaclimber


Oct 23, 2007, 8:05 PM
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Thats a good deal on Fixe hangers!
Those will be really good, as long as you make sure they are on stainless bolts.

I am familiar with the books & balls method myself Cool
It might not be ideal, but at the end of the day, good bolting is really "just" a lot of engineering and common sense.


rock_wired


Oct 23, 2007, 8:16 PM
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The deal is on 100 plated hangers. They've got a box of 50 plated bolts for $62. As far as protection goes, I'd like to think plated is as safe as stainless?


JohnCook


Oct 23, 2007, 8:22 PM
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Don't mix plated and stainless, especially if the plating is anything other than chrome. Galvanic corrosion between the two dissimilar metals can often be invisible, especially in stainless where it creeps between the crystals in the stainless. Failure is often catastrophic, unlike two plated metals together which show corrosion and will, in the early stages of corrosion bend under load.


sbaclimber


Oct 23, 2007, 8:39 PM
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rock_wired wrote:
I'd like to think plated is as safe as stainless?
When you place them, yes. some time down the road...who knows!?

unless you are in a desert environment, I would highly recommend simply going with stainless.
There are cheaper options than Fixe as well.


JohnCook


Oct 23, 2007, 8:47 PM
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Stainless are usually the best in any environment (sweat is corrosive so even a dry desert can have corrosion problems) They will last a lot longer because of the material. PLating cis relatively easily damaged, its very thin, sand will abrade it, other metals may scratch it, falling rocks may scratch it. As soon as the plating is damaged it loses its protective effect.
Stainless may weight a little bit more, aand cost more, but they are much more failsafe. Buy from a reputable manufacturer, there will be cheap quality stainless bolts around (there are hundreds of types of stainless steel around.) Try to ask a construction engineer what are the best long lasting makes. (they usually want to charge for advice but don't pay)


fng


Oct 23, 2007, 9:02 PM
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I just upped on bolts and hangers. Both SS, nothing else for me since I know SS lasts longer and I feel a responsibility to put in SS.

www.climbaxe.com has madrock SS hangers for $1.45 and www.concretefasteners.com had the cheapest SS bolts I could find when I ordered.


JohnCook


Oct 23, 2007, 9:08 PM
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Come back in 20 years and tell me how they are.


wilddoc


Oct 23, 2007, 9:52 PM
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Would humbly suggest the Education tab on the American Safe Climber's Association website for well-researched and thorough tutorial on all things related to bolting. I like what I believe JohnCook alludes to. We must keep in mind anything we put up will likely be present long after we are. I try to put in time, effort, and financial investment knowing my actions will impact the community far into the future. But that's just my take, and I'm pretty new to the FA world.


chossmonkey


Oct 24, 2007, 5:08 AM
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fng wrote:
www.climbaxe.com has madrock SS hangers for $1.45 and www.concretefasteners.com had the cheapest SS bolts I could find when I ordered.

IMHO Madrock hangers suck ass. I also like to know that my bolts are coming from a reputable manufacturer.



As to the OP go with all Stainless. If you do cheap out don't mix stainless hangers and plated bolts, they can rot out much faster than an all plated combination.


primus


Oct 24, 2007, 12:24 PM
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rock_wired wrote:
I'm also interested in keeping my rock free of garbage.

Thanks! :thumbsup:


sbaclimber


Oct 24, 2007, 1:25 PM
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fng wrote:
I just upped on bolts and hangers. Both SS, nothing else for me since I know SS lasts longer and I feel a responsibility to put in SS.

www.climbaxe.com has madrock SS hangers for $1.45 and www.concretefasteners.com had the cheapest SS bolts I could find when I ordered.
I am not a fan of madrock hangers either...

If you really want the cheapest, go with:
www.acmeclimbing.com for hangers (pagan)
www.tool-up.com for bolts (3/8x3-3/4" stainless redhead trubolts)

Edit: www.climbaxe.com actually has the pagan hangers as well. They are the ones for $1.45, not the madrocks.


(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Oct 24, 2007, 1:27 PM)


rock_wired


Oct 24, 2007, 3:20 PM
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If stainless is the ethical choice...as it appears to be, then it's an easy choice for sure. I'll check those sites. Thanks for the info!


omalavet


Oct 24, 2007, 3:34 PM
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rocks last for life.... so use bolts that last at least that long!!!!


overlord


Oct 26, 2007, 12:11 AM
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go stainless.


metawolf


Oct 26, 2007, 12:29 AM
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rock_wired wrote:
What's the pro's and con's of stainless steel hardware vs. plated hardware? Obviously the price of the plated is appealing, but I'm also interested in keeping my rock free of garbage.

Anyone has any experience with TITANIUM? I came across the following pages while researching for climbing in Krabi (going there in DEC)

Hangers near or facing the sea will corrode super fast...

http://www.railay.com/...bing_rebolting.shtml
http://www.railay.com/..._phiphi_update.shtml


(This post was edited by metawolf on Oct 26, 2007, 1:27 AM)


overlord


Oct 26, 2007, 2:40 AM
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metawolf wrote:
rock_wired wrote:
What's the pro's and con's of stainless steel hardware vs. plated hardware? Obviously the price of the plated is appealing, but I'm also interested in keeping my rock free of garbage.

Anyone has any experience with TITANIUM? I came across the following pages while researching for climbing in Krabi (going there in DEC)

Hangers near or facing the sea will corrode super fast...

http://www.railay.com/...bing_rebolting.shtml
http://www.railay.com/..._phiphi_update.shtml

that is true... even stainless doesnt survive in wet, salty conditions. titanium might be the ticket in such cases, but imho the cost/perfomance relationship (titanium is really expensive, though i agree i have no idea what such climbing hardware costs) is not better than stainless for 'normal' areas.


caughtinside


Oct 26, 2007, 2:48 PM
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metawolf wrote:
rock_wired wrote:
What's the pro's and con's of stainless steel hardware vs. plated hardware? Obviously the price of the plated is appealing, but I'm also interested in keeping my rock free of garbage.

Anyone has any experience with TITANIUM? I came across the following pages while researching for climbing in Krabi (going there in DEC)

Hangers near or facing the sea will corrode super fast...

http://www.railay.com/...bing_rebolting.shtml
http://www.railay.com/..._phiphi_update.shtml

You can only get titanium in the form of a glue in bolt. There are no titanium hangers or titanium bolts.

They are really expensive as well, upwards of $20 each these days? But, they are the new standard for seaside bolting. They aren't necessary for most applications.


tradmanclimbs


Oct 26, 2007, 2:56 PM
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I recently got a case of powers stainless steel Powerwedges from fastenal after shipping they came in at $0.90 ea No excuse for not useing stainless when you can get them at that price! madrock hangers suck so bad they shouldn't even be on the market!! I got a decent price on Ramer hangers at alocal shop but I cleaned them out. Are the pagan hangers any good???


billcoe_


Oct 26, 2007, 7:29 PM
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Can you show a link to the Ramer hanger? I've never heard of one.

The best hangers seem to be Metolius and Fixe's. Get stainless. It's bogus to cheap out.

Now, 2 things: I don't know why folks don't like the Mad Rocks? A stainless mad rock would be my preference over any Steel hanger (except maybe the Metolius powder coated hangers. )

Can anyone point me to the cheapest place for 1/2" Stainless hangers?


sbaclimber


Oct 27, 2007, 2:26 AM
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tradmanclimbs wrote:
Are the pagan hangers any good???
Yup.
They don't appear as meaty as say Fixe, but they are rated and I find the design to be quite good.


tradmanclimbs


Oct 27, 2007, 6:44 AM
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Spelled it wrong. It's Raumer, made in italy. excelent hanger. Lighter and cheaper than fixe but still burly looking.


tradmanclimbs


Oct 29, 2007, 12:34 PM
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Just recieved my pagan hangers. they look pleanty burly and the desighn seems to be decent.

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