Oct 29, 2007, 6:33 AM
Post #1 of 1
Registered: Aug 13, 2006
Anyone know where Cry Baby Crack is supposed to finish? I climbed it yesterday for the first time. After the two cracks merge by an overhang, the book I have (Falcon's Climbing NJ) says to pass a ledge and find a suitable belay tree. How far passed how many ledges?
There was a ledge with a tree maybe 2-3 inches in diameter that I wouldn't want to rap from. I didn't even trust sligning it for pro. This was at a section maybe 15-25' past the overhang (I don't recall). There looked to be the stumpy remains of a larger tree, so I wondered if that was the one the guide referenced. The ledge was followed by a slabby, unprotectable 10-15' of climbing. Below the slab (by the tree) was a shelf of rock I didn't use for pro since I could have pulled it off. Above the slab was a grassy ledge. I ended up belaying from a nice vertical crack behind a thicker tree up there (6" diameter). I didn't use the tree. It felt pretty good, but had a big gouge at the base (branch fell off?) and was visibly rotting there. I figured we could rap there and back it with a piece in the crack. I didn't want to go higher because I had a single rope and would barely make it down from where I was. Plus it was lichen covered above and I wasn't positive there would be better trees there.
We ended up doing a scramble "pitch" to the climber's right and down, rapping off a cluster of three trees in the corner above where the offwidth (Hopscotch?) finished. My rope just barely made it down with stretch and is a little longer than 60 meters.
Where was I supposed to stop? Was I too high? The slabby part was pretty easy climbing, though I am not sure I would have said 5.5. Or G for that matter, since the pro below was off to the side and would be a pendulum fall, with nothing for pro on the slab. PG would seem more fair, unless someone thought that loose shelf of rock would hold...