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rocjock
Nov 3, 2007, 5:03 AM
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Hey- I might be moving down to So Cal around Palmdale/Santa Clarita and I am looking for climbing areas nearby. The only places around there(less than an hour away) seem to like Devil's Punchbowl- in which every climb is 5.10 or higher. Are there any areas with 5.6-5.9's for trad and sport leading? I know I can climb TR up to 5.11, but my leading ability needs to seriously be worked on. And 5.6-5.8 is what I am most comfortable with right now. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
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tradkrew2
Nov 3, 2007, 3:59 PM
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joshua tree is about two hours from there and has thousands of awesome moderate trad routes....and malibu creek is about an hour and it has some easier sport climbs.
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onceahardman
Nov 3, 2007, 4:24 PM
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there's a little easier stuff in devils punchbowl...no offense to the locals, i thought it was pretty junky, but that was a long time ago. maybe it's been cleaned up and developed better now.
my advice for that place? don't even look at the guidebook. look around for something reasonable, with good protection, tie in, and climb! you can always check the book later. you may surprise yourself and lead a .10 you wouldn't have tried if you knew ahead of time!
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jtme
Nov 3, 2007, 5:08 PM
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Registered: Nov 6, 2002
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Apple Valley/BMX crags
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rocjock
Nov 4, 2007, 4:55 AM
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Got it. Thanks everyone who posted a reply. I guess I will just have to go down there and figure it out, climb better fast and learn to drive a few hours. 
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8flood8
Nov 4, 2007, 2:01 PM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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especially with a name like rock jock..
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jt512
Nov 4, 2007, 3:42 PM
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Palmdale to New Jack City, near Barstow, is less than a 2-hr drive. There are a handful of sub-5.10 routes at New Jack, but many good routes starting at 5.10a. If you starting working these routes you'll quickly acquire the skills necessary to climb at this level, and from there, it's easy to start progressing into harder sport routes. After a season at New Jack, you'll be sneering at the 5.9 "sport climbers" along with the rest of us. ;)
Jay
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rocjock
Nov 5, 2007, 2:17 PM
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Thanks JT. Had a good laugh at your post. I appreciate your optimism- and if I am climbing as much as I plan on down there and can find partners in the area, I should get to that level. But I have to say I still like the 5.fun's.
And...by the way, 8flood8, in respect to my name...as Bird Lew says "You just gotta believe"
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8flood8
Nov 6, 2007, 6:38 AM
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i was just teasin you :)
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