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blueeyedclimber
Oct 25, 2007, 12:47 PM
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cracklover wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: How is Captain Hook? Definitely merits a star. As Jake suggests, it's very technical. The crux is composed of a short section with a wide variety of almost entirely useless holds. You choose what works for you to get through it. I found a sequence that may or may not work for anyone else. And then the top is fun, fairly big-hold climbing, somewhat technical, with a fight against the pump. GO
Good, I like technical. I have the technical slab on Rap Echo wired, but the burly move up and around the corner gives me trouble. I got through it for the first time without hanging and while I was shaking out, my foot popped off. I didn't have enough gas left for the third attempt.
Josh
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robbovius
Oct 26, 2007, 1:11 PM
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in anticipation of my trip to Crawfod notch next week I've begun watching the weather.. and it isn't encouraging... NWS predicts a 40% possbility of snow or rain showers wed night, with overnight temps around 28 F...weatehr.com predicions are congruent with the above, including showers for thursday and maybe friday....
hmmmm.
still almost a week away, we shall see what develops...
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jakedatc
Oct 27, 2007, 8:18 PM
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Registered: Mar 12, 2003
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LW or RIRG depending on how fast things dry out.. first time climbing in a while.. should be interesting
RIRG it was... found out that taking basically(one session at a friends wall and a few short times on my wall bouldering) a month off from climbing does a number on endurance. I haven't taken that much time off in like 4 years so it was a bit rough.. but still had a decent time.
(This post was edited by jakedatc on Oct 29, 2007, 1:04 AM)
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robbovius
Oct 31, 2007, 12:37 PM
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Well, don't be looking for a long Crawford notch rope solo diary entry this week. I'm following the weather, and had chosen this mornign as the decision point.
friday is supposed to be sunny, and mid 40s,but thursday is suposed to be cloudy and drizzly with overnight temps both nights in the mid 20s.
even for me, that's colder than I want to camp out in, and then take on a 7-pitch rope solo attempt.
I'm a little disappointed but, the rock will still be there in the spring.
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cracklover
Oct 31, 2007, 12:53 PM
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Sorry, Rob!
Was at the Gunks this weekend. Fall is such a lovely time of year there. A time when the millipedes have grown to horror-show proportions. No photoshop alteration was done on this photo.
Happy Halloween everyone!
GO
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robbovius
Oct 31, 2007, 1:10 PM
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cracklover wrote: Sorry, Rob! Was at the Gunks this weekend. Fall is such a lovely time of year there. A time when the millipedes have grown to horror-show proportions. No photoshop alteration was done on this photo. Happy Halloween everyone! GO
whoa! holy crap that's a big-ass piece of millipede you got there, bwah!
Gabe yeah, I'm not so enamored of below freezing temperatures on the hike in and start of the climb, and finding my drinkiing water frozen when I wake up.
doing this trip ( really, any of my climbing trips) on the cheap was key, thus camping was essential.
on the upside, I do have two lead ropes now, so I'm hooked up for the long two-rope raps wherever I go.
I'll tell ya, this past seaon Ive really become quite enamored and sexcited about climbing in that whole region defined by franconia, the route 3/302 S loop down to the kank... I love the scenery, the views, the lack of crowds (in many areas). I'm hoping for multiple trips there next season... maybe by then I'll have a regular trad partner too, so rope solo - even though I do enjoy it -won't be such a steady diet.
(This post was edited by robbovius on Oct 31, 2007, 1:11 PM)
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Gmburns2000
Oct 31, 2007, 1:18 PM
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cracklover wrote: Sorry, Rob! Was at the Gunks this weekend. Fall is such a lovely time of year there. A time when the millipedes have grown to horror-show proportions. No photoshop alteration was done on this photo. Happy Halloween everyone! GO
I hate those things. I really, really hate those things. I also hate snakes, and was gearing up for my first trip to Red Rocks this morning by reading the guidebook whilst on the can. I came across one route, called Bird Crack, that noted how a pigeon squeezed out from a thin crack and flew into the climber who was climbing it at the time. OK, so if a pigeon lives in those things...
PS - I lived in Hawaii for a few years when I was young, and millipedes there are lethal within 30 min or so after a bite / sting. Those don't look like the ones in the Northeast, but those like the one in Gabe's pic still give me the creeps. *shivers* *cringes* *any other appropriate physical response that I'm forgetting*
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seeker
Nov 1, 2007, 12:03 AM
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The weather on Friday looks good. Anyone want to go climbing? Some long trad routes anywhere between Lincoln and NConway or Crawford. Maybe that "new" one on Mt Huntington or Webster? Rob,reconsider?
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core
Nov 1, 2007, 12:30 AM
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Bummer about the forecast Rob!
I know some folks going to the gunks on Sunday if you need to get out... 
If Y'all are bored at work and daydreaming about climbing, I put together a little slide show of my CA trip. Enjoy.
and because pictures liven up this sea of text...
"ummmm, isn't it too early to climb? ...and for pictures?"
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lucander
Nov 1, 2007, 12:36 AM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: was gearing up for my first trip to Red Rocks this morning by reading the guidebook whilst on the can. I came across one route, called Bird Crack, that noted how a pigeon squeezed out from a thin crack and flew into the climber who was climbing it at the time. OK, so if a pigeon lives in those things...
You were reading up on Straight Shooter weren't you.
DL
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Gmburns2000
Nov 1, 2007, 12:53 AM
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lucander wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: was gearing up for my first trip to Red Rocks this morning by reading the guidebook whilst on the can. I came across one route, called Bird Crack, that noted how a pigeon squeezed out from a thin crack and flew into the climber who was climbing it at the time. OK, so if a pigeon lives in those things... You were reading up on Straight Shooter weren't you. DL
I was, if that's the first pitch. I think the second pitch is a different route, and that's the one with the pigeon story.
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Gmburns2000
Nov 1, 2007, 1:00 AM
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awsome pics cory. looks like you guys had a great time. so jealous.
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robbovius
Nov 1, 2007, 11:07 AM
Post #19938 of 22774
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seeker wrote: The weather on Friday looks good. Anyone want to go climbing? Some long trad routes anywhere between Lincoln and NConway or Crawford. Maybe that "new" one on Mt Huntington or Webster? Rob,reconsider?
Amy, check your PMs.. yup, I'm in. thanks! vy kewl.
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jumaringjeff
Nov 1, 2007, 2:10 PM
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Awesome photos Cory, thanks for sharing.
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treddy
Nov 1, 2007, 7:23 PM
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mrksprague wrote: Black jack Crack 10d
Is this that painfully obvious finger crack that is hard to miss coming down from waimea?
Thanks,
Tim
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jakedatc
Nov 2, 2007, 12:20 AM
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It's a tall splitter in the black jack boulders..
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treddy
Nov 2, 2007, 6:59 PM
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yup...thats the one...thanks! Blackjack crack..here I come ;)
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cracklover
Nov 2, 2007, 8:17 PM
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I can't tell, what's the size? Looks like fingers to thin hands? And how do you get off - is there an easy scramble?
Tim, might see you there Sunday...
GO
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treddy
Nov 2, 2007, 8:24 PM
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It starts as perfect fingers...and while I've only played on the first few moves, it looks like it stays around there for almost all of it. maybe a touch wider up top, but i think its mostly in the gray to purple camelot size.
I have no idea about the top...I think I'm just going to climb up to the top and see what is there ;)
I'll probably only be there on saturday, but its the first thing on the agenda for the day, so if you are there on saturday, you know where to find me!
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robbovius
Nov 3, 2007, 5:23 PM
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Made it up to Crawford notch yesterday, did four pitches of rope solo fun ( which means, I climbed 8 pitches ;-) ) on a combo of Lost in the sun and some harder line up the middle.
I have a few pics, AMy took one of me seconding P3 as she and , um, I forget the guy's name....Pete? - I dunno - were rapping off;. I'll post some pics later.
beautiful weather!!!! Sunny, and cloudless, I was able to climb P4 in my shirtsleeves, though once the sun fell behind the opposing ridge on the west side of the Notch, it cgot cold quickly. the approach is stout. NOBODY is allowed to whine about the little hike up the hill to the MUA campsite 21 around me ever again. you hear? the hike in was heinous, 1.5 hour up 400-500 feet elevation and 1/2 to 2/3d of a mile, that included fording the Saco and a 1/4 mile upward scramble over rockslide rubble ...and since I was rope soling, carrying 2 ropes (2 packs, stacked) and all my gear (40+ pounds?).
I didn't get down from teh climbs until sunset and did the hike out (2hours) in the dark...
the consolation is that the sky was so awesomely filled with stars that one I got back to rte 302 and my car, I shjut my headlamp up and oooohed and aaaahed like a star-struck teen.
Oh, after I had rapped down to second P4, I could see the shadow of the oppposing ridge creeping up the face, and felt it pass over me...and then watched it creep upward.. kewl!
the climb itslef was a blast, even though I didn't get to summit. 4 pitches of slabby goodness, including a couple exciting 50-70 foot runouts...I led four pitches, and TR self-belayed another four (and on the TR seconds, I'd climb a slightly different line than I led, for variety.)
as burly as the approach was, I'll definitely go back and finish that climb. if I'd started at, like, 6 am, as opposed to 10 am (including hike time) I would have been able to summit before dusk.
with a partner, things would have gone much faster, though my systems are really coming together nicely.
Oh Larry, it was most defintely AN ADVENTURE ;-)
(This post was edited by robbovius on Nov 4, 2007, 5:00 PM)
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epoch
Moderator
Nov 3, 2007, 5:41 PM
Post #19947 of 22774
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sounds like fun all
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senilechaz
Nov 4, 2007, 1:01 AM
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I am going to be in the Boston area for the bouldering comp on nov 10 i want to hit some outdoor stuff in the area on the 8th or the 9th. just from browsin the routes page the alcove at hammond pond seems like a good spot for some bouldering if anyone wants to meet up for some cold climbin or offer some advice on the area i am all ears any advice or recommendations would be great
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jakedatc
Nov 4, 2007, 1:56 AM
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How long will you be in town? May i suggest looking up Lincoln Woods ,RI or Pawtuckaway NH both will be far more fulfilling ventures.
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treddy
Nov 4, 2007, 2:05 AM
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Ticked it today..took two burns, and felt great. A fantastic climb!
If you are bringing a minimal rack just for this climb, you definitely want up to green camelots, and I found a couple larger pieces nice for an anchor up top. Trivial walk off down the backside.
Tim
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