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mushroom
Nov 6, 2007, 5:34 AM
Post #1 of 11
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Registered: Mar 10, 2007
Posts: 230
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once again, if I put this in the wrong place, I'm sorry but my last one stayed here so I was going to put this one here since I'm not posting in order to get a partner, I just wanted to advice of people who climb in j tree. feel free to move it, godly mods.
For reference, my old post was: http://www.rockclimbing.com/..._reply;so=ASC;mh=25;
Basically I was just asking a lot of questions, but now I got some stuff planned out so I wanted to get some feedback. I started a fresh thread so that I could clean the whole thing up and make it a little more straight forward. This way you don't have to read 20 posts.
The Logistics:
Planning on climbing in J Tree for 2 weeks over December/January. Will fly into some airport near Santa Barbara then get a friend to give a lift into the park. Extraction plans are still being established.
Accomodations:
-I have a friend who will drive me into Hidden Valley CG. People said this is the place to stay. (1) Does it fill up in December/January, should I have a backup?
-I plan on staying in a tent with my friend, probably playing campground ranger games to pay the least and stay the longest
-(2) Is there water at this campground or will I have to prepare to keep water for multiple days, then trade beer for a lift to a water source? (bonus question: if I still have beer why do I need water?)
-I plan on having my 0*F bag on a ridgerest
Clothing
-basically preparing for 0* nights, and 60-70* days
(3) does this sound right? yall f'real about the temperature during the day?
Gear
-60M rope ((4)do raps at J-tree require a second 60M rope? I dont want the trouble of bringing it if I don't really need it, but then I dont want to pass up rad shit for an extra 8 lbs of stuff)
-camalots: 1 set from .5 - 3 (2 x #1)
-friends: 1.5 - 2.5 (minus the green one, look to the right at the slabs of the start of Snake Dike, my partner dropped it 2 pitches up in August)
-Metolius TCU 1 - 4, plus the tiny red camalot 4CU (previous generation)
-1 set of nuts
-10 draws
(5)is this rack suffice for your standard free climbs? I try to avoid offwidth, but I'm not a sally who refuses to do a little work to get some altitutde, so is it worth bringing a #4 or something?
(6) dude, it doesn't rain in j tree, does it? I mean I know it's a desert, but do I need to worry about weather possibly ruining the trip? Are there ever super cold days or something? If someone can give me a little more beta on the behavior of j tree weather in December/January that'd be stellar.
(7) which guidebook do you recommend?
I'm not sure of the dates yet, they are still getting worked out. The plan is 2 weeks in the muck. I'll follow up this thread when I figure out. Maybe spend x-mas morning on the rocks? Big thanks in advance for the help, peace from the East!
Nick
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snowey
Nov 6, 2007, 6:09 AM
Post #2 of 11
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Registered: Jul 7, 2006
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mushroom wrote: Accomodations: -I have a friend who will drive me into Hidden Valley CG. People said this is the place to stay. (1) Does it fill up in December/January, should I have a backup?
mushroom wrote: -(2) Is there water at this campground or will I have to prepare to keep water for multiple days, then trade beer for a lift to a water source? (bonus question: if I still have beer why do I need water?)
mushroom wrote: -basically preparing for 0* nights, and 60-70* days (3) does this sound right? yall f'real about the temperature during the day?
mushroom wrote: Gear -60M rope ((4)do raps at J-tree require a second 60M rope? I dont want the trouble of bringing it if I don't really need it, but then I dont want to pass up rad shit for an extra 8 lbs of stuff)
mushroom wrote: (5)is this rack suffice for your standard free climbs? I try to avoid offwidth, but I'm not a sally who refuses to do a little work to get some altitutde, so is it worth bringing a #4 or something?
mushroom wrote: (7) which guidebook do you recommend?
Since joshua tree has so many routes, I would suggest going to mountainproject.com and searching for climbs that are in your climbing range of 3+ stars or whatever. If you log in you can keep a ToDo List that you can then bring with you to Josh, which along with the guidebook can help direct you to some good areas.
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mushroom
Nov 6, 2007, 6:23 AM
Post #3 of 11
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Registered: Mar 10, 2007
Posts: 230
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Any advice for food defense if I don't have a car?
And thanks a lot.
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le_bruce
Nov 6, 2007, 6:23 AM
Post #4 of 11
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Registered: Oct 29, 2004
Posts: 60
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>Will fly into some airport near Santa Barbara...
This'll be expensive - your best bet is Los Angeles, only 2.5 hrs from Santa Barbara (and 2.5 or 3 from Josh).
>I have a friend who will drive me into Hidden Valley CG. People said this is the place to stay. (1) Does it fill up in December/January, should I have a backup?
Have a backup, but you'll likely find a spot eventually. If you're by yourself, and bivying with only sleeping bag and mattress, even a full campground shouldn't pose much of a problem if you talk with people there. There's no water in the park - the entrance is the closest spot, and it's not within reasonable walking distance. Because you're carless, I'd suggest buying a ton of food and water while riding in with your friend.
>...and 60-70* days
Be ready for much colder, particularly with wind chill.
>...a second 60M rope?
Usually there's a way down with one rope - can't think of a single instance where two ropes are mandatory, though I'm sure there are some.
>...to get some altitutde, so is it worth bringing a #4 or something?
Your rack sounds good to go, though there's not much altitude to be had at Josh. If you have the #4, why not bring it? You'll definitely find places to use it. If you don't have one, no worries.
>...it doesn't rain in j tree, does it?
Yes.
>...about weather possibly ruining the trip? Are there ever super cold days or something?
Not likely that your whole trip will be ruined, but there might be some shit wx days, which provide a good excuse to wander around a mindblowing landscape and take it all in. Wind can be fierce, some days you'll be avoiding the shade at all costs. Even if it does rain it's very unlikely you'll be shut down for more than a day or two.
>...which guidebook...?
I like Vogel's guides, though the best beta and reco's will come from other climbers you talk with. Like this: make absolutely sure you climb the following lines!:
Illusion Dweller
Bird of Fire
Exorcist
Rubicon
Mental Physics
Dogleg, Toe Jam, Double Cross
Those are some of the obvious classics. A good starting point. Orange Flake is a fun multipitch, especially if, as you say, you don't mind a little wide business.
Have a blast!!
(This post was edited by le_bruce on Nov 6, 2007, 6:27 AM)
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jermeng
Nov 6, 2007, 9:02 AM
Post #5 of 11
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Registered: Nov 16, 2005
Posts: 64
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Camping: You shouldn't have too much of a problem with finding a site in Hidden Valley in January. If you don't hook up with anyone with a car, You'll be in reasonable hiking distance to some of the most classic-saturated areas of the park (Real Hidden Valley, Wonderland of Rocks, Hemmingway Buttress, Lost Horse Wall, Dairy Queen Wall, IRS Wall, Steve Canyon, Intersection Rock, Old Woman, Chimney Rock... the list goes on). As for a backup plan, go for Jumbo Rocks Campground for climbing proximity; though Ryan Campground will probably have more climbers, there are few climbs in that area.
Best deal in town is the $0.25/5 gallons of water at the West Entrance. Get a multi-gallon jug. No water in the park.
0-degree will likely be much more than adequate. If you live anywhere with winters, you should be fine with a 15/20-degree.
Weather: I'd guess more around 20* nights and 50-lower 60* days. Expect wind and bring a shell for exposed top belays or multi-pitch (by multi I mean 2). Wouldn't expect rain, but don't be too surprised if you do see a day or two during a 2-week stay. Perhaps even snow. By any means, it shouldn't ruin your trip.
Gear: 1 x 60m rope will be plenty fine. If you climb Hemmingway wall (which you should) just head over to the center of the buttress for a single rope rap. The left most rappel requires 2 ropes. When in doubt, you can probably walk off; and if you don't, tie knots in the ends of your rappel. Oh, and if you're saving 8lbs, bring the #4! That will get you on more climbs than a 2nd rope!
Books: I'd go with the Joshua Tree West Book by Vogel. This will cover all the areas in reasonable walking distance from Hidden Valley. Partner that with the "Trad Guide to Joshua Tree" and you'll know when the sun is on each wall so that you can chase it for some warmer weather.
Enjoy
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cjmore
Nov 8, 2007, 12:48 PM
Post #6 of 11
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Registered: May 21, 2005
Posts: 9
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I think everyone pretty much covered it
I do about 20 or 30 days a years at Joshua Tree and I have been at Jt when temps were down to 8 degrees low and 38 degree highs for the day and at the same time wind speeds up to 60 mph.plus I have also experienced rain sleet hail and snow all on the same day... If weather turns bad JT can really be a miserable place to camp.
If you are real lucky you may get 40 degree nights and 70 degree days blue skys and little wind... I love JTree on those epic days...
I hope you have a good trip
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louisiana_climber
Nov 8, 2007, 2:30 PM
Post #7 of 11
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Registered: Aug 7, 2005
Posts: 28
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what time of the year do you generally spend your 30 days there? i spend april there, and it would be nice to know another 'permanent' resident while i am there.
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cjmore
Nov 27, 2007, 6:38 AM
Post #8 of 11
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Registered: May 21, 2005
Posts: 9
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louisiana_climber wrote: what time of the year do you generally spend your 30 days there? i spend april there, and it would be nice to know another 'permanent' resident while i am there.
Between Sept to April I spend mostly weekends there. I am heading out in a few days for a three day trip. Last year I was there for about 17 days in April too.
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vegastradguy
Nov 27, 2007, 8:23 AM
Post #9 of 11
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919
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all good beta so far.
the thing with josh weather is that its high desert- which translates to mostly really nice days (mid 50s or so for that time of year, maybe up to 60 if its warm), but cold ass nights (i've always gotten away with a 15 degree bag, but i've had a couple of cold nights there where i wouldnt have minded having a 0 degree) and if its windy....well, it sucks. bring a shell- i remember one day the temp was supposedly in the mid 50s, but with the wind chill, it was more like freezing. it may also rain, or even snow, out there. i believe last year climbers woke up to a couple of inches of snow on the ground one day. the good news is: it never rains for that long- two days at absolute maximum, more likely an hour or two, and even if it does rain, you can climb as soon as the rock is dry.
bring a 4" cam- i use mine all the time there.
tick list:
there are so many, it really depends on your climbing level. some major classics have been listed, but i'd also add:
Clean and Jerk
Rollerball
Sail Away
The Gunsmoke Traverse
Right On
Lower Right Ski Track
Papa Woolsey
Touch and Go
Pope's Crack
White Lightning
Poodles are People Too
there are tons more, but these are some of my favorites...
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tallmark515
Nov 28, 2007, 12:50 AM
Post #10 of 11
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Registered: Oct 2, 2006
Posts: 281
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2 more points:
Go with the "older" Vogal book, it covers everything and if it's your first trip to the park you should definitely check out the slab climbing at Echo Cove.
If temps get to cold at the park you can head over to Indian Cove (a dozen miles or so to the east on the 62) temps there are usually warmer than the temps at the park because of it's lower elevation. There is great camping and lots of climbing in the campground (also in the "old" Vogal guidebook).
I'll actually be out there all of Jan-Feb, so if you want someone to climb with that first week of Jan. let me know.
-mark
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louisiana_climber
Nov 28, 2007, 1:05 AM
Post #11 of 11
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Registered: Aug 7, 2005
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if you are a boulderer, dont miss white rastafarian. its walking distance from hidden valley camp ground. if you dont bring a pad with, joshua tree outfitters rents them pretty cheap.
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