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Augustwest75
Nov 19, 2007, 4:33 PM
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Registered: Nov 19, 2007
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I'll be in NZ for two weeks this December and have only one day allocated for climbing in Castle Hill. We are looking to hire a guide for a few reasons: 1) the area looks pretty expansive and hard to identify particular routes without being familiar with the area, 2) our limited time there, and 3) we will not be bringing any of our own gear (aside from shoes and harness). Does anyone have recommendations for guides in the area? I know Castle Hill is primarily known for its boulders, but is there sufficient sport climbing as well? Thanks.
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dreday3000
Nov 19, 2007, 6:21 PM
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I have never heard of anyone getting a guide for Castle Hill as the area is very accesible. That said, you're dead on about Castle Hill being expansive and if you really only have a day, it might not be a bad idea.
There is SOME sport climbing in Castle HIll but its fairly spread out and tends to be "sport" i.e. bolts few and far between. If you really want to sportk climbing consider making the trip to Paynes ford in Nelson or Wanaka. Paynes ford is probably the South Island's best sport climbing and home to the Islands best campground. The climbing in wanaka is also pretty good and home to some fine wine.
I'd say your best bet would be to go to one of the local outdoor stores in Christchurch and ask around.. Bivouc probably has the most climbers working there so they can probably point you in the right direction.
There is also an online forum in NZ called www.mojozone.com try posting there and I'm sure someone would be willing to take you out.
Another option is contact a clothin/bouldering company called Tools of the Adventure ( they make the best climbing pants I've ever seen). I know the owner of the company Mark has been kind enough to lend out bouldering pads to visiting climbers. He may also be able to hook you up with an informal guide.
Best of luck.
(This post was edited by dreday3000 on Nov 19, 2007, 6:30 PM)
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sbaclimber
Nov 19, 2007, 8:20 PM
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Forget sport climbing.
As dre... said, grab your shoes and rent/borrow a pad.
There are sport routes up there, and both South Island climbing guides cover them pretty well, but if you are only going to be there a day, stick to bouldering.
Castle Hill is a world class bouldering destination, not a world class sport climbing destination. Don't waste your time clipping (well.....slinging...) bolts!
If you were going to be around for more than one day, I would give you different advice, but one day=bouldering, even for those of us who don't boulder
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