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umstead rocks
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ichaelme


Sep 23, 2007, 3:25 AM
Post #26 of 31 (1833 views)
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Registered: Sep 14, 2007
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Re: [CinnamonJohnson] umstead rocks [In reply to]
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i found the boulders today, pretty fun routes. i didnt climb the main rock too much becouse i didnt bring a pad, and it is pretty skechy to send the tall routes without anything to fall back on.

all in all it was fun.


Carnage


Sep 24, 2007, 1:34 PM
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Registered: Mar 27, 2007
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Re: [ichaelme] umstead rocks [In reply to]
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walked around for like 3 hours yesterday couldnt find em. going back today w/ a gps. hopefully itll go better..


MikeSaint


Nov 4, 2007, 7:55 PM
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Registered: Sep 19, 2007
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Re: [Carnage] umstead rocks [In reply to]
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I saw that someone has been having fires under the main boulder. If you're camping there (illegal) use a headlamp.


knieveltech


Nov 4, 2007, 11:04 PM
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Registered: Dec 2, 2006
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Re: [MikeSaint] umstead rocks [In reply to]
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MikeSaint wrote:
I saw that someone has been having fires under the main boulder. If you're camping there (illegal) use a headlamp.

No doubt. It'd be a shame if a bunch of route holds exfoliated due to heat.


smoothsailor


Nov 21, 2007, 1:03 AM
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Registered: Sep 19, 2007
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Re: [norskagent] umstead rocks [In reply to]
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Do you guys do the sit start with "welcome to umstead"? it's pretty cool, and it puts in a low crux. but damn, is that problem ever sketchy... Is the broken hold on d.t.t.w. on the rail? What do you think that was rated?

-I doubt that whoever made that fire is a climber...seriously...and all that black nastyness is right on a decent looking crack!!


norskagent


Nov 26, 2007, 1:37 PM
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Registered: Jul 9, 2003
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Re: [smoothsailor] umstead rocks [In reply to]
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yes, the sit to welcome adds extra value.
This pic shows the first crux of dttw, sticking and matching on the lone face hold:



the hold that broke is about 3' or so up and left of his hands, a "tooth" hold. The original problem
dyno-ed to the top after sticking the tooth hold. One possabiltiy now would be to reach about 1' past where the tooth hold was, to the good diagonal rail, from there, one would top out to the left I suppose.

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