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wandt


Oct 9, 2001, 12:26 AM
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rehab without patience
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Well, I haven't been able to climb since August 9th due to my broken wrist. By next weekend I should be able to start again. I was at the local outdoors place, and I got on their shoe-trying wall on a couple of huge jugs, and found that ALL my strength is gone.
Here's the thing: I really don't have the patience to spend years building up my strength gradually again. I want to be abck at what I was within a month ideally. Does anyone know of any psycho training-programs or strength-building diets/vitamin suppliments (outside of steroids, creatine, etc.) that will do this?


Partner pianomahnn


Oct 9, 2001, 8:37 AM
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Don't even think about it. That will only cause more injury. You have the rest of your life to climb, don't screw it up because you're impatient. I'm serious.


krillen


Oct 9, 2001, 8:48 AM
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Start slow, take necessary rest days, and you'll be surprised how fast you bounce back. Muscle memory should allow you muscles to develop back to your previous level more quickly build new mass.

If you push it to come back strong and take on too much too fast you will re-injure yourself OR injure youself in a new body area trying to overcompensate for your weak arm.

Relax and take it one day at a time.


ganjaman


Oct 9, 2001, 9:09 AM
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I hear ya brother. My situation is similar. I've been climbing for almost 10 years and have been off the rock since a heart attack last year. I know how you feel, but I can't help feel a little jealous. You have the ability to heal yourself and get back into decent shape over time. I may have to give up climbing for good. Not a thought I even want to entertain but this may be my reality. My thought is that you should chill, go slow and stay healthy. You will be able to keep climbing while others become a permanent belay slave.


coach713
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Oct 9, 2001, 9:19 AM
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Take it SLOW. The rock will be there. Your health may not if you push it. I now have an artificial Hip because in my younger days, I just didn't have the sence to slow down when my body told me too. I'm paying for it now.


woodse


Oct 9, 2001, 10:08 AM
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I would take it slow to prevent injury on that arm and maybe even try isolating that wrist and working it out. After a couple of weeks I would start to gradually increase the amount of climbing to that of pre-injury levels. You should be able to re-gain the strength rather quickly, you'd be surprised.


jds100


Oct 9, 2001, 2:38 PM
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I don't think there are any magic diets, supplements, or workouts, but your strength will come back fairly quickly with your normal climbing and physical therapy work. You've likely got some atrophy, and in my personal experience, that responds quickly. You probably know that you really do need to go reasonably slowly, climbing on the bigger holds and "easier" routes. Good luck, and listen to your body.


rck_climber


Oct 9, 2001, 3:22 PM
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Quote: JDS said:
I don't think there are any magic diets, supplements, or workouts...

Actually, there are, but they are either illegal or really hard on your body - trust me.

Not satisfied w/ my 128 lb.-stature and inability to put more mass on, I started taking just about everything I could find just short of anabolic steroids. I was deployed to Kosovo and had nothing but time on my hands and lifted twice daily on top of my supplements (andro, creatine and protein whey, all stacked on load phase), and quickly bulked up to 144 and nearly doubled my bench. The problem was that my joints began to get aggravated to the point of constant pain and I was as moody as a post-partum mother (believe me - got one at home ). When I finally stopped, I lost 26 lbs. in a week and the strength was gone in a month even though the lifting didn't fall off.

Not saying they're bad, just unpractical and temporary.

Mick


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