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nordstjern
Dec 1, 2007, 7:41 PM
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Registered: Nov 5, 2007
Posts: 3
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I am planning a trip to the Red River Gorge next spring/early summer en route to visiting some friends. As I am flying in from Europe, I'm trying to figure out what I need to bring. Below is a list of my rack, would appreciate advice on
a) whether there's anything I can leave at home (do I need the big stuff? how important are the doubles?)
b) what I may need to consider adding to my rack
1+2 Ballnuts
3-13 Smiley Wedges, 5-9 BD Stoppers
4-8 WC Hexcentrics
1+2 Metolius TCU
1-2.5 WC Technical Friends, 0.75-3 RE Comets
3-4 WC Forged Friends
6+7 RE Pulsars
Looking at climbing primarily 5.9-5.10b while there.
Thanks!
Petra
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jajen
Dec 1, 2007, 10:49 PM
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Registered: Jul 6, 2006
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Hey Petra,
Balnuts - scary in Red sandstone!
Cams-bring 'em all. You won't need a lot of doubles, usually you can find enough variance in the cracks but there are some lines that you'll be glad to have doubles on. Also, bring 'draws!!! The Red has some real nice gear climbing but it is sport climbing paradise.
If you're looking to save weight, you can probably skip the doubles and just share a rack with whoever you go out with.
Enjoy!
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Jbitz
Dec 2, 2007, 5:02 AM
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Registered: Nov 14, 2006
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I second that.
You could leave the Hexes too, if you plan on climbing nines and higher. I placed a few, but a cam would have worked.
Also, you could do with one set of stoppers. I never used them once that I could recall in 4 days.
I would double on the finger to perfect hands sized cams.
I found that tri-cams came in handy on more then a few climbs. They are nice for the few horizontal cracks and the numerous pockets you will run into. Plus, they don't take up alot of space in your luggage.
Pick up the new second edition guide by Wolverine publishing, if you have not already. It's a beautiful guide with great pics of the routes and an excellent layout. If you can't readily get it over Germany, stop by Miguel's Pizza and get one there and have a slice a pizza while your at it.
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drfelatio
Dec 2, 2007, 5:40 AM
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Registered: Sep 16, 2004
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Yeah you won't need the Ballnuts but everything else is good. Crack sizes around the Red vary considerably, but your rack ought to cover pretty much everything just fine. It really depends on what you intend to climb.
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scott0708
Dec 2, 2007, 6:33 AM
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Registered: Feb 2, 2007
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I would say that, in terms of luggage space and weight, leaving the #7 pulsar might not be a bad idea, unless you're intent on offwidth climbing.
Don't get me wrong, there are plenty of high-quality wide cracks at the Red, but unless you're really into OW, you could have plenty of fun on other stuff.
Another thing that might help would be to check out the online guidebook: http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuideV2/
You can do an advanced search to look specifically trad route in the 5.9-5.10 range, and you can even sort by star (quality) rating.
Hope this helps,
-Scott
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nordstjern
Dec 2, 2007, 8:48 PM
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Registered: Nov 5, 2007
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Thanks a bunch everyone for your help!
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