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Best angle for a Woodie
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jeffe


Oct 17, 2002, 2:25 PM
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I'm building a woodie and can't figure what angle to make it. There is allot of info that says go 45 degree overhanging. My freind that is helping me build it says it's sick steep. I was thinking about 40 degrees. Can the woodie owners out there give me your rant and raves on the woodies you've built? By the way, I'm working with a area 7 1/2 feet high, 8 feet wide and 12 feet deep(wich will be verticle).

[ This Message was edited by: jeffe on 2002-10-17 16:16 ]


Partner xcel360


Oct 17, 2002, 2:35 PM
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In my limited experience with mine trying out different angles with trial and error, I will have to say that 30-45 degrees is definetly what you want. Your home wall isn't as big as say your local gym's bouldering cave so you don't want to get bored with it. Making it steep and training on it like that offers more variety than just a vertical or slightly angled wall, and in time will make you a stronger climber which in essence is the purpose of your home wall. I say go for the 42-45



climb512


Oct 17, 2002, 2:47 PM
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I went with 30, not so radical, gives a good work out. Its easier, but I find I can use a larger variety of holds than if I went with a 45. For me it works fine.


no_limit


Oct 17, 2002, 4:31 PM
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Mine has 4 sides, so I have lots of angles. I have 2 vertical, one vertical half way and then 45 degrees for the top half and one overhang. Check out my article here


astone


Oct 17, 2002, 4:58 PM
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As far as I know its supposed to break down like this:

20 years old - 10 degrees above horizontal
30 years old - 15 degrees above horizontal
40 years old - 0 degrees above horizontal
50 years old - 10 degrees below horizontal

I guess the actual numbers depend on your physical makeup.


jeffe


Oct 18, 2002, 4:23 AM
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no_limit,
Wich angle holds your interest the longest?


zorg


Oct 18, 2002, 4:42 AM
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Build it in a way that you can change the angle. That is the only way to not get bored with the woodie in the long run.

It's what I did anyway.


chuckd278


Oct 18, 2002, 5:24 AM
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I made mine with various angles but the answer I will give you is make it for what you want to train because in time most people will change their woodie around a little. I had slopers and cripers all over my home gym and with a 35 degree pitch it was a good work out. If you have the money to buy a lot of jugs unlike me you can set it back even more.

Chuck


ronniefrown


Oct 18, 2002, 5:43 AM
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if your whole area is only 7.5' high, you should go with a much more overhanging wall. nobody wants to top out in only 2 moves max, so you'll make more use of your space if you go at least 45. you'll get 10.6 ft of climbing space which is a great bouldering distance.


barc


Oct 18, 2002, 6:00 AM
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Eric Horst's book flash training has a good idea for a wall where you can change the angle. It really doesn't look that complicated. If I was building one that's what I'd do.
Elliott


pusherem


Oct 18, 2002, 6:16 AM
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mine is built at a 45 and its a lil hard but, it def. works your upper body alot. i woyuld recomend it...
eric


pushfurther


Oct 18, 2002, 6:25 AM
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hehe, astone made the woodie joke..


rwaltermyer


Oct 18, 2002, 9:18 AM
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from my experience, everyone is hitting the nails on the head.

Benefits of a 45:
1) maximizes climbing space, if you remember you're Tri: A^2+B^2=C^2...and to maximize C, make your angle a 45!

2) While variety is nice...in your constraints, i'd recommend going with one angle and stiking with in. ALTHOUGH, I have seen a similar wall (width-wise, 8 ft) that had two angles, perhaps a 37 and 50 side by side. That gives you an interesting middle of the wall, with arete and layback possibilities assuming you construct it well.

3) Eric Horst, in his resarch for his newest book Training for Climbing found that angles between 45 and 55 maximized the amount of muscle gained from training regulatly on a woodie.

Now, jeff, i'm not sure what you "12 feet deep" dimension is referring to. If you're saying that room is 7.5 ft high, but 12 ft long, i'd go with whatever angle connect the floor to the opposite roof to maximize climbing area.

LASTLY, in your constraints, don't bother with a kick board at the bottom, that will lose you more climbing space in your equation (unless you make in an 8 incher so something, but then its basically useless)

as for getting bored, put lots of T-nuts in, to expand possibilites, and consider the dual angle concept!


climbincajun


Oct 18, 2002, 9:37 AM
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make it adjustable! its not that hard!


jeffe


Oct 19, 2002, 2:07 PM
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Hey astone,
How do you factor kids into that angle equation?

The angle I went with 40 degrees past verticle. I wanted to go adjustable but needed to use the rear of the wall for storage. It should be finished in a few days. Thanks for the input.


rwaltermyer


Oct 19, 2002, 3:22 PM
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awesome..i'd like to see picts when its done!


no_limit


Oct 19, 2002, 3:23 PM
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I would say the horizontal overhang is most exciting, because it is most diffucult. Also, I can use the 3 walls surrounding it to make for interesting positions.

[ This Message was edited by: no_limit on 2002-10-19 15:35 ]


peanutbutterandjelly


Oct 19, 2002, 4:01 PM
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On a 45 degree wall I would put a kicker. On an angle that steep you will not use the first foot (probably more) for hands. With the kicker you could put small jibs unlike the positive jibs or bolt on holds you would need for on the 45 degree section.


rwaltermyer


Oct 21, 2002, 8:36 AM
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however PB&J...a kicker (regardless of size), eliminates layback climbing space in the long run. You can fit more 45 space, than you can a kicker. So if you put a kicker in, make sure you either a) make it small (12-18 inches) or b) have lots of room to utilize.


xanx


Oct 21, 2002, 7:03 PM
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um, a stupid question, but, what is a woodie? just curious cause i was looking at the woodie board by pusher and didn't know what it was.

thanks
mike


peanutbutterandjelly


Oct 21, 2002, 8:00 PM
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I am not saying make a 3 foot kicker or anything like that. I am just saying that putting a kicker on a 45 degree wall will allow you to maximize the use on the very bottem of your wall. It is often the case with non kicker 45 degree walls that the first few inches are not used at all. On my kicker the closest hold to the bottem of my wall is a little less then half an inch from the floor.


peanutbutterandjelly


Oct 21, 2002, 8:05 PM
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A woodie is just another name for a home wall.


jeffe


Oct 22, 2002, 1:10 PM
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We ran a 2x8 across the bottom for a kicker. When it's done I'll get some pics up.


coclimber26


Oct 26, 2002, 9:31 PM
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I saw a nice one in Austria that was divided into thirds and had a hand crank on it, you could crank it and the angle would change....Leave it to the Austrians..


moss-foot
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Oct 26, 2002, 11:17 PM
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i have a wall that is exactly 7.5 feet high and only 4 feet wide. i attached it to the wall with some bomber eye bolts and 5 feet of chain with a biner attached. i can climb any angle from vertical to about 55 degrees. its good for a work out or to just screw around on. when your done it can be stored upright. if you have any questions let me know...

[ This Message was edited by: moss-foot on 2002-10-26 23:18 ]

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