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rokshoxbkr19


Dec 24, 2007, 2:06 PM
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Great Unclimbed Routes; RESEARCH
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Im trying to compile some research on yet unclimbed routes in North America. I'd prefer to focus on previous generations of climbers who have left projects still unsent. Folklore, legends and general myth are welcomed. Most fantastic would be information regarding climbers who are still alive or any first hand knowledge from people who were part of the effort. In addition, I'm trying to narrow this down to trad leads that were worked on and have been abandoned, forgotten about or deemed impossible. If I've been unclear here please contact me for further details. Thank you..


rokshoxbkr19


Dec 24, 2007, 4:12 PM
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come on climber knowledge geeks, bring me the data...


billl7


Dec 24, 2007, 4:22 PM
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Re: [rokshoxbkr19] Great Unclimbed Routes; RESEARCH [In reply to]
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A Date With Death, 5.12-ish?, 1 pitch, Echo Canyon, Sandia Mountains, New Mexico.

I know next to nothing about the history but the name sure has a lot of sex-appeal.

Edit: ... there is some controversy over whether there was an FA.


(This post was edited by billl7 on Dec 24, 2007, 4:36 PM)


photoguy190


Dec 24, 2007, 5:27 PM
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Re: [billl7] Great Unclimbed Routes; RESEARCH [In reply to]
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How can something that is unclimbed have a name, wouldn't it still be a project?


kovacs69


Dec 24, 2007, 7:21 PM
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Re: [photoguy190] Great Unclimbed Routes; RESEARCH [In reply to]
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photoguy190 wrote:
How can something that is unclimbed have a name, wouldn't it still be a project?

Not necessarily. Back not so far in the distant past people would name them or they would get a nick name just so people would know what route you were talking about.

JB


rokshoxbkr19


Dec 24, 2007, 7:38 PM
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Re: [kovacs69] Great Unclimbed Routes; RESEARCH [In reply to]
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ok, good start. any information on worked the route? I know therere have to be a ton of unclimbed routes out there and climbers of yesteryear with stories to tell...


billl7


Dec 24, 2007, 7:52 PM
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Ah! Good question - mea culpa. I should have said the controversy regarded whether there ever was a first ascent on lead - an unusual distinction I know. Details ...

The guide "Sandia Rock" by Mick Schein (2003) lists the first ascent this way - "5.13/5.14(?)
A Date With Death FA: John Duran (TR)"

The route description ends with this statement "This climb is probably the most difficult in the Sandias, and awaits a first free ascent." Not surprisingly, the book has about 100 routes in it and this one is the only one with "TR"

Bill L

Edit: For info on who has worked A Date With Death, I would try to look up John Duran. Another angle would be to register on www.MountainProject.com and request information/interviews of those who are currently putting up hard routes in the Sandia Mountains - plenty of current activity. MP.com has a means to contact those who post routes.

Edit: Also, to be clear, the FA controversy I mentioned didn't have to do with John Duran's TR. It was someone later who claimed FA on lead. Don't know the name of that person and I presume the disputed lead concerned a free ascent on lead as opposed to involving some aid climbing.


(This post was edited by billl7 on Dec 24, 2007, 8:23 PM)


moose_droppings


Dec 24, 2007, 7:58 PM
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Re: [rokshoxbkr19] Great Unclimbed Routes; RESEARCH [In reply to]
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rokshoxbkr19 wrote:
I know therere have to be a ton of unclimbed routes out there...

If your willing to walk more than a 1/4 mile, than come out here and I'll show you 1000's of them. Even though I'm trying to knock that number down best I can, it will take me more years than I got left in me.


rokshoxbkr19


Dec 25, 2007, 2:47 PM
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Re: [moose_droppings] Great Unclimbed Routes; RESEARCH [In reply to]
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I'd love to check out South Dakota and see some of the great unclimbed routes there, however, that's not what I'm looking for here. I would like to know of routes that have been tried and worked but were never sent and perhaps the information on those who projected or pioneered the attempts. Perhaps they are at locations no longer popular or they are just deemed too hard or dangerous to lead. When I lived in Zion NP there were a number of routes that had been worked by generations previous and had long since been neglected only waiting for a new generation to give it a go.


punk_rocker333


Dec 26, 2007, 11:16 PM
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free or aid routes in Zion?


jakedatc


Dec 28, 2007, 10:40 AM
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Bill Clinton Project .14+ at Rumney.. looks like a sweet line when it goes..

Super Fly ha ha ha


rokshoxbkr19


Dec 29, 2007, 10:23 AM
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Re: [punk_rocker333] Great Unclimbed Routes; RESEARCH [In reply to]
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I am referring to free routes or routes and even routes that have been aided but could possibly be freed. My focus is on climbs attempted on lead with traditional gear. I thought there would be more information than this, lol...


petsfed


Dec 29, 2007, 11:32 AM
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Caesar on the Nautilus out at Vedauwoo awaits a free lead. I don't know who got the first top rope ascent, but I understand that it dates back to when Piana and Skinner were making a name for themselves up there, so mid 80s, at the least.


rokshoxbkr19


Dec 30, 2007, 8:23 AM
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Re: [petsfed] Great Unclimbed Routes; RESEARCH [In reply to]
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THAT'S AWESOME! THAT IS EXACTLY THE KIND OF INFORMATION IM INTERESTED IN! I know there have got to be tons of routes like that at all of ur local areas,...keep it ooming please!


worldonastrng


Jan 1, 2008, 10:56 AM
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Re: [rokshoxbkr19] Great Unclimbed Routes; RESEARCH [In reply to]
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Do some research and find out who's who in the world of FAs for an area. They're the ones that are going to know, not people like me who are sitting on a computer.

For example, if I wanted to know about Zion, here's what I would do; Look up the most active first ascentionists, e.g., Brian Bird, Eric Draper, Brody Greer, Chris McNamara, and hardmen that are active like Mike Anderson, Brian McCray, Jon Varco. Talk to those guys. They're out there putting in the hours and know quite well what's going on.

Of course, this way requires more work than posting a couple of times on a forum.

Good luck on your quest.


Partner robdotcalm


Feb 6, 2008, 10:18 AM
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petsfed wrote:
Caesar on the Nautilus out at Vedauwoo awaits a free lead. I don't know who got the first top rope ascent,

Dick Cilley


erick


Feb 10, 2008, 9:02 AM
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There's a 340 metre route on Yamnuska (by Calgary) that's still to see a free ascent. Verstiegenheit (5.12 A1) has been worked on by several teams over the last 10 years, but none have been able to free it. Quite a few bolts have been put into this route though...so it's not a pure trad line like you're looking for. but it's still pretty intense-sounding...

EDIT: just looked it up and found a blurb in The American Alpine Journal: The World's Most Significant Climbs (2005), and Shep Steiner and Scott Milton have in fact freed it at 12c.


(This post was edited by erick on Feb 10, 2008, 9:10 AM)


clymber


Feb 10, 2008, 9:50 AM
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if its unclimbed how would you know if its a great route or if it can even go as one...


petsfed


Feb 10, 2008, 10:05 AM
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Some lines are just obvious and dominate the area. Caesar, for instance, sits on top of the Nautilus, and its very distinctive.

Also, a lot of these have been attempted numerous times but never done free (or never actually completed) and the would be first ascensionists were drawn back repeatedly for one reason or another.


(This post was edited by petsfed on Feb 10, 2008, 10:05 AM)


basilisk


Feb 12, 2008, 10:23 PM
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I'm amazed no one has flamed this thread


There's a whole slew of projects listed in the Jeff Butterfield guidebook for Acadia, ME. You'll get no stories from me though


ozoneclimber


Feb 12, 2008, 10:52 PM
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There is 300 foot sandstone arch in the wilds of Arkansas that a friend of mine tried while I belayed. I say arch, it's more a free-standing pedestal that seems to have fallen into the main wall. Anyway, he climbs .12b on trad, or at least that is what I've seen him do, and he couldn't finish this one out. Mind you he was cleaning the route as he went, and it kind of became our own little epic for a couple of months. We now have about a hundred boulder lines put up and about a dozen routes.


Not my place to disclose location, sorry vultures. Wink

Bobby


rangerrob


Feb 26, 2008, 11:59 AM
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Ummm.....the north face of The Devil's Thumb in Southeast Alaska. Probably the longest unclimbed line in North America that has seen numerous attempts.

But if we're just talking cragging here...how about Spinal Traction in the Gunks. I know the old aid line is being worked now but it still hasn't gone down. If I keep seeing that fixed gear hanging there for much longer though it will be mine! HA!


rangerrob


Apr 10, 2008, 5:16 AM
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Man I fucking killed this thread. Ya'll didn't like my answer??


potreroed


May 12, 2008, 6:48 PM
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Mi Regalo Favorito on the Outrage Wall at Potrero Chico. Kurt Smith and Jeb Vetters bolted this 22 pitch route 8 or 9 years ago then never went back to even attempt to free climb it. It's all bolted and the fixed ropes are still there. The first 3 or 4 pitches are going to be in the 5.13+ range. There will probably be more hard climbing on the upper headwall.


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