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jgill
Oct 20, 2002, 12:05 AM
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Questions arise in this forum area about "who did what, when?", particularly with regard to rising difficulty standards. Pat Ament has contributed a new book which is in essence a chronology of events in American free climbing that the author considers significant, or, as he says, "pivotal" in the general evolution of standards through the years. He begins in 1869 with the climbs of John Muir and Elkanah J. Lamb, and concludes with the climbs of Dave Graham, Tommy Caldwell, Dean Potter and other modern luminaries. There is a considerable amount of material from the "Golden Ages" of the sport, which show where the careers of Robbins, Bridwell, Kor and others overlapped or intersected. One can see the disjoint threads of continuity as standards go from 5.8 to 5.10 during the 1940s and 1950s. In many instances descriptions are provided by key climbers of the era. The title of the book is:
"A History of Free Climbing in America: Wizards of Rock", published by the Wilderness Press.
Of course, not everyone will agree with who and what Pat includes and who and what he doesn't, but then the subject is not as concise as stating and proving a mathematical theorem!
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jmlangford
Oct 20, 2002, 12:26 AM
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Here is the link to Wilderness Press for the book John mentioned above. After reading Pat's other writings, especially John Gill: Master of Rock, this one is sure to be outstanding!
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jmlangford
Nov 30, 2002, 6:04 AM
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Here is where you can read my review on this book on rc.com. The book is outstanding!
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andy_lemon
Nov 30, 2002, 6:45 AM
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Interested in buying the book but before I order I was wondering some of the other climbers mentioned in it. Anyone like Adam Grosowski, John Sherman, or Todd Skinner mentioned anywhere? I'm more interested in learning about some of the climbers that used to freaquent Southern Illinois.
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misha
Nov 30, 2002, 6:59 AM
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ive read master of rock and some john sherman, that book looks awesome.
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jmlangford
Dec 1, 2002, 12:10 AM
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"Anyone like Adam Grosowski, John Sherman, or Todd Skinner mentioned anywhere?"
No Grosowski, 5 mentions(pages) for John Sherman, 19 mentions(pages) on Skinner.
[ This Message was edited by: jmlangford on 2002-11-30 17:09 ]
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andy_lemon
Dec 1, 2002, 5:38 AM
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Awesome! thanks.
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duskerhu
Dec 1, 2002, 6:23 AM
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I read Jody's review and immediately ordered myself a copy... (hope you get some kick-backs Jody )
The review was good and hopefully Jody knows what he's speaking of; 'cus I just spent $25 for the book...
None the less, its always good to know some history on the subjects/activities you're involved in; even if it's not a "good read", you're bound to learn something.
duskerhu
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andy_lemon
Dec 1, 2002, 8:15 PM
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I asked santa to buy me the book... if he doesn't come through for me I'm going to the book store.
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alanshearer
Dec 2, 2002, 9:05 PM
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I just purchased the book and love it. Is has bumped the Oxford History of the English Language for the primier reading location in the house -- the bathroom.
I'm curious, however, why it contained so little about what I thought were some of the pioneer Sierra climbers -- Clyde, et al.
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russmanswife
Dec 4, 2002, 7:38 PM
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i got to flip through a copy when russ and i visited jared(jhundrup) a couple of weeks ago and it looked very interesting. hopefully someone will be nice and get it for me for christmas or if not i plan on ordering a copy.
bobbi
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