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Who climbs out here?
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USnavy


Jan 26, 2008, 2:29 PM
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Who climbs out here?  (North_America: United_States: Hawaii: Oahu: Mokuleia_Crag)
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Who all goes out here other then me?


mtengaio


Mar 30, 2008, 9:03 PM
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Re: [USnavy] Who climbs out here? [In reply to]
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How many days a month can you climb at The Moke or anywhere on Oahu for that matter? I grew up there years ago and know that the mountains are always covered in rain clouds – especially the mauna side.

It's cool to see that climbing is being pursued there more and more lately. I can't think of a better place to live when you have surf, sand, and now climbing! Right on brah!


USnavy


Apr 3, 2008, 5:42 AM
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Re: [mtengaio] Who climbs out here? [In reply to]
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Generally speaking the main climbing area receives the least amount of rain of any area on the island. Also generally speaking you can climb as soon as 6 hours after a rain fall here because the rain on the cliffs seems to evaporate reasonably quickly. In the last five months I was able to climb about 95% of the times I wanted to. And in addition there are routes that are almost always dry so even if it is raining you can still do some climbing (as long as you can climb a 5.10).


mtengaio


Apr 3, 2008, 7:34 AM
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Re: [USnavy] Who climbs out here? [In reply to]
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How many routes are in the 5.11-5.13 range at The Moke? We are planning on a family trip to Oahu next March and certainly plan on checking out this wall. Climbing in the islands…choice!


USnavy


Apr 3, 2008, 9:19 AM
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Re: [mtengaio] Who climbs out here? [In reply to]
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Probably about 20. However be advised that the grades are slightly sandbagged. Most people from the mainland rate the routes one grade harder (i.e. a 5.10b would be a 5.10c on the mainland) so if you normaly climb 11's you may have fun on some of the harder 10's. Most of the routes in the 11 - 13 range are face and dihedral climbing. Most routes in the 5.8 - 5.10d range are crack and dihedral climbing.


mtengaio


Apr 3, 2008, 9:29 AM
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Re: [USnavy] Who climbs out here? [In reply to]
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Just out of curiosity, who bolted the lines and rated them? Someone that climbed elsewhere before establishing those lines? Did you put them up?

I'm always interested to hear how an area became discovered and established, especially over there where there isn't much history of technical rock climbing.


USnavy


Apr 4, 2008, 3:02 AM
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Re: [mtengaio] Who climbs out here? [In reply to]
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I do not know who put up all the original routes. Many were put up well before my time here. However some of the newer routes were put up by the owner of the local climbing shop here on the island. He knows the original ascensionest of most if not all of the routes. The routes are accurately rated in refrence with each other (i.e. a route that is harder then another route will be rated as being such). From what I am told by most mainland climbers the routes are rated one grade easier then they are (i.e. a 5.10d would be a 5.11a on the mainland). I feel the routes are accurately rated in reference with the areas I have been climbing on the mainland. The routes are intelligently bolted with bolts placed in areas that offer good clipping stances and reasonable spacing over difficult areas. The routes here are bolted more intelligently then any place I have been climbing.


(This post was edited by USnavy on Apr 4, 2008, 4:17 AM)


hawaii_climbing_guy


Sep 14, 2008, 9:11 PM
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Re: [USnavy] Who climbs out here? [In reply to]
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Dude, you want to talk about ratings?!?!

I just got back to my new place in norther Virginia from climbing at Seneca Rocks, WV, one of the most notoriously sandbagged places in the US. Supposedly, they just ended up grading differently here because it's so far from the Yosemite "reference climbs", but... I climbed a 5.9 yesterday ( on top-rope because the pro sucked! ) called "Unrelenting Verticality" which was comparable to "Spice" or "All it's Cracked up to be" or "Funkey Monkey" (all 5.10). It was totally um... vertical... and unrelenting, yeah! Tough ****er!!!

By the way, Seneca totally kicks ass, except when you climb past a swarm of hornets. I climbed "Tomato" today: two pitches of class Seneca 5.8 goodness!


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