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fulton
Feb 1, 2008, 12:03 AM
Post #26 of 31
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Registered: Feb 26, 2004
Posts: 210
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Within 6 hours -- you're out of luck: New York and New England are granite country, granite and granite period. -- Lots of Quartzite type rocks in Pa (like you find in the Gunks, but not as big). From Central to South Pennslyvania you'll find some sandstone and conglomorate type stone -- good climbing but certainly not destination location stuff.
But to find limestone and sandstone that makes you say, "I've never climbed on rock like this, wow, its so diffrent, so unique.." you're going to have to go to as far South as West Virginia, Kentunky and Tennessee.
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armsrforclimbing
Feb 1, 2008, 1:22 AM
Post #27 of 31
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Registered: Feb 11, 2004
Posts: 214
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I second the recommendation of the Mellor ADK Guide.
As a newer climber I would recommend the lower ends of the Beer Walls for toproping. Pocomoonshine has several low to moderate grades, but the majority of the climbs are stiffer trad for a beginner. There are plenty of other areas. Just read the intro though, an interesting insight into "Adventure Climbing" in the North East.
Good luck, and stop into the Mountaineer.
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armsrforclimbing
Feb 1, 2008, 1:25 AM
Post #28 of 31
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Registered: Feb 11, 2004
Posts: 214
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I used to climb alot in the Niagara Glen and the Niagara Escarpment. The whole area is fantastic. The earlier poster gave a good summary. For a newer outdoor climber Rattlesnake, Buff Crag and Mt. Nemo are all great for top ropes. The Glen is a primo bouldering area for most climbers. All sorts of cool hydraulic features abound in the limestone boulders.
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desertwanderer81
Feb 1, 2008, 2:28 AM
Post #29 of 31
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Registered: Sep 5, 2007
Posts: 2272
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mushroom wrote: yo are so right LF is off the NY throughway (I90). memory a tad shady. I think it's funny you mention how gunks is not real multipitch...I always think of the same thing. I can't believe it when I see people break Madame G into 3 pitches. Most retarded thing ever. Carry a goddamn 4ft runner or two and everything at the gunks becomes 1 pitch. NE climbers don't know what real climbing is. Why would you climb 80ft pitches with a 60M rope? NYC people love life so much that they refuse to climb over half their rope length so they can bail at any time. LAst one alive is a Cissy. And I would second the dacks.Its definitely worth the extended weekend trip if you can start traveling on a Thursday night or something. Granite + multipitch + alpine environment = sweet.
hahahaha, best post of all time!! And yeah, pitches are 200'. Longer if you bring a 70m rope with you!
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cracklover
Feb 1, 2008, 2:39 PM
Post #30 of 31
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
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mushroom wrote: chill yo, I'm dicking around. Sure at other places you get to climb clean faces with nothing but crack systems, whereas the gunks has many gnarly rope drag inducing roof/corner systems.
Not to mention big ledges, long traverses, climbs that are a lot longer than 200 feet, communication problems, and loads of beginners who are just fledging and need to stay within communication with their partners as they encounter new challenges.
In reply to: I've done plenty of climbs where assholes spend all day ahead of me because their party of 3 doesn't have the heart to climb (or carry a rack) to climb a rope length. it's definitely a problem at the gunks unlike many other places
Yeah, I've been stuck behind slow people at the Gunks, too. It's crowded there, deal with it. Actually, though, worst line I've ever been in was on Munginella in Yosemite. My suggestion to you in the Gunks would be to get stronger/more experienced, so you can get off the the cattle-line climbs. Or just pick any climb that doesn't have three stars.
In reply to: its the fucking internet, you're allowed to joke around and rag on people for lame habits. laugh a little, gumby.
Yup, and I appreciate the chance to laugh at your sad attempt to come off like you're hot shit. Thanks for the chuckle!
Oh, or is that lame habit of yours off-limits from internet joking? Ha!
GO
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cracklover
Feb 1, 2008, 3:17 PM
Post #31 of 31
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
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Oh, and about your assertion that New England climbers are lame? Yeah, climbers like Barber, Webster, Mark Synnott, Rick Wilcox, George Hurley, Dave Graham, etc etc. How lame are they?
Not like, oh, say... Maryland!
GO
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