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Sardinia in Marts
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bothomsen


Feb 2, 2008, 8:36 PM
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Sardinia in Marts  (Europe: Italy: Sardegna)
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Hi
I am going on my first trip ever, and are going to camp in Isili - Sardinia. in mid-late marts.
i have climbed indoor for allmost a year now and climb 6a-6b+ / 5.9-5.10d

i would like some info about some good areas and lines to climb.
i have found some info here on rc and some on rockfax to. i will print them - to bring'em(later).

and what about trad routes ? we would like(me/my partner) to do a few days using nuts and friends. are there some info on these routes to?

and what about the local guide "pitre de luna" is it worth the money? or should we just buy the rockfax mini's
we are renting a car, so other areas can be visited too.


(This post was edited by bothomsen on Feb 2, 2008, 8:40 PM)


thomasribiere


Feb 3, 2008, 4:59 AM
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Re: [bothomsen] Sardinia in Marts [In reply to]
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No trad line in Isili. There might be a few in Sardinia, but forget about it, it's a sport climbing area, though you'll find some boulders if you want.

"Pietra di Luna" is an excellent climbing guide and is worth the expense. The drawings are good, there's a lot of useful infos in it. Don't hesitate.

Isili has plenty of 5.10 / lower 6 routes, all on an excellent pocketed limestone. Follow your instinct, follow the sun : March might be a bit "cold", and maybe humid, but if the sun shines, it will be perfect.


stevecurtis


Feb 3, 2008, 5:38 AM
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Re: [bothomsen] Sardinia in Marts [In reply to]
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I spent three climbing trips on sardinia. Two trips of great weather, one bust. Yes, petra di luna is a good guide book. My favorite climb was the 400 ft spire by the ocean. Any route to the top is at least 11A with run-out 5.10. Wolfgang Guillich is another great climb and not that commiting.
The lines are fantastic, and the scenery absolutely first rate. The limestone itself tends to be sharp, and not as nice as French areas. I always stayed in Cala Gazone. A couple of families own most everything, and you can get good deals on lodging. We once stayed in a "Bedsit" on a cliff over the ocean. about $35 a night.


thomasribiere


Feb 3, 2008, 6:27 AM
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Re: [stevecurtis] Sardinia in Marts [In reply to]
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stevecurtis wrote:
I spent three climbing trips on sardinia. Two trips of great weather, one bust. Yes, petra di luna is a good guide book. My favorite climb was the 400 ft spire by the ocean. Any route to the top is at least 11A with run-out 5.10. Wolfgang Guillich is another great climb and not that commiting.
The lines are fantastic, and the scenery absolutely first rate. The limestone itself tends to be sharp, and not as nice as French areas. I always stayed in Cala Gazone. A couple of families own most everything, and you can get good deals on lodging. We once stayed in a "Bedsit" on a cliff over the ocean. about $35 a night.

You must talk of the Aguglia di Goloritze (Goloritze needle). The OP only spent one year indoor, so I'm not sure he could do anything on it...

or Cala Gonone?


(This post was edited by thomasribiere on Feb 3, 2008, 6:30 AM)


bothomsen


Feb 4, 2008, 2:38 AM
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Re: [bothomsen] Sardinia in Marts [In reply to]
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thanks for your responses.
first i think we will skip the trad gear, second well i think the 5.11's will be a bit hard. maybe lucky to redpoint a 5.11a but beyond that it's above my abbilities so far.
and 5.10 runout... na not yet :-)
thanks for the info about the "pie..d luna", i'll buy it then.

but are are really looking forward for 8 days of just climbing.
thanks


(This post was edited by bothomsen on Feb 4, 2008, 2:40 AM)


Partner tisar


Feb 4, 2008, 3:06 AM
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Re: [bothomsen] Sardinia in Marts [In reply to]
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bothomsen wrote:
thanks for your responses.
first i think we will skip the trad gear, second well i think the 5.11's will be a bit hard. maybe lucky to redpoint a 5.11a but beyond that it's above my abbilities so far.
and 5.10 runout... na not yet :-)
thanks for the info about the "pie..d luna", i'll buy it then.

but are are really looking forward for 8 days of just climbing.
thanks

Skip the trad gear and spare it for granite elsewhere. Sardinia is quickdraw-land (though of course there's a bunch of trad in the north). Cala Gonone would be the climbers centre of Sardinia, you might at least visit Cala Fuili (Cala Luna is supposed to be more beautiful but too hard for the grades you mentioned). Check the route db, I added a lot of routes in your range.

Have fun!
- Daniel


bothomsen


Feb 5, 2008, 2:25 AM
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Re: [tisar] Sardinia in Marts [In reply to]
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tisar wrote:
Skip the trad gear and spare it for granite elsewhere. Sardinia is quickdraw-land (though of course there's a bunch of trad in the north). Cala Gonone would be the climbers centre of Sardinia, you might at least visit Cala Fuili (Cala Luna is supposed to be more beautiful but too hard for the grades you mentioned). Check the route db, I added a lot of routes in your range.

Have fun!
- Daniel

thanks a lot, i'll check the areas you mentioned.
i "preciate"...( are glad for) the info and advice.
bo


bothomsen


Mar 10, 2008, 2:34 PM
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Hi
so How is the weather there? arriving saturday :-) for 10 days of climbing :-)


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