Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Alpine & Ice:
Gloves or Mittens for Ice?
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mainline


Oct 22, 2002, 10:22 PM
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Registered: Aug 29, 2002
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Gloves or Mittens for Ice?
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My question has several parts.

First, Do you wear gloves or mittens while ice climbing?

Do you leave your glove in the tool strap and place the screw with your bare hand, or liner covered hand, or do you place skrews with your gloves on.

Do you wear a thin set of "action" gloves while on lead, and then switch to warm gloves while belaying?

So far, I have worn heavily insulated ice climbing gloves for the small amount of waterfall ice climbing that I have done. I have found them to be awkward when placing gear.


coconutz


Oct 22, 2002, 10:40 PM
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Registered: Apr 18, 2002
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Gloves or Mittens for Ice? [In reply to]
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This is a question you may never find an anwser to. My suggestion is take what you hear here and fit what you like the most. With that in mind I'll tell ya' what I like:

First of all, hands are like the rest of your body, they are unique to you. Some people hands just plain and simple do not get cold. Or you may have freakishly long and/or fat fingers. You get the Idea.

For pure water ice I like to use paddeling gloves from NRS. I think their website is NRS.com, can't remember off the top of my head. They are neoprene and have way sticky palms and are very sensitive. Windproof to boot. They make them in 4-6 models in varring warmth and thickness, they even provide an online fit guide so you can measure your hand. They are warm but not to breatheable, on the upside they do not absorbe hardly any sweat/water.

So I climb in those and I usually belay in some HUGE mittens that fit over the neoprenes.

Again this is what I like and use and have found it to work the best for me. If you like the idea give it a try, it's not like they are very expensive and your beating up your belay mittens.

People might say that the neoprene is not as durable, which is true. I found that I like this system so well and the gloves are so cheap that I can use them all season and use them for paddeling in the up coming season too. Just consider new "climbing gloves" the price of doing business each season. at an average of $35 you won't cry like you lost a mate to you $100+ plus pair. You will drop them and it will die and go where all of your missing sox are


[ This Message was edited by: coconutz on 2002-10-22 22:41 ]


mainline


Oct 22, 2002, 10:46 PM
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Gloves or Mittens for Ice? [In reply to]
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That's a great idea. I have paddeling gloves for kayaking and I never thought to try them for ice climbing. Thanks.


punk


Oct 23, 2002, 4:30 AM
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Gloves or Mittens for Ice? [In reply to]
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The way I do it is in the mountain I use the duchstine (sp) wool gloves with BD over mitten and NEVER EVER GOT COLD FINGERS
Going on Ice I use the BD dry-tool as a liner and the Granite-Gear Ice sparring shell and this combo have proven it self to me to be the best combo yet I have for Ice or technical mountaineering


chuckd278


Oct 23, 2002, 5:32 AM
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Gloves or Mittens for Ice? [In reply to]
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I use a layer system like punk. The layers fit somewhat snug which helps me feel stuff a little better. Gloves or mittins? Try both and use what feels better to you. IMHO you should place your gear with your gloves on. No need to fumble around on ice. When im placing a screw I want to do it as fast as I can and right the first time. What you think is a good place for a screw can be a nightmare if it is not so be as efficient as you can.

Chuck


cjburchell


Oct 23, 2002, 6:08 AM
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Gloves or Mittens for Ice? [In reply to]
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I too use a layer system I usually climb with a pair of light gloves (bd Drytool Gloves) then have a pair of heavy gloves or mitts on my harness for belaying or sitting around.
I love the dry tool gloves they are warm enough to climb with and give excellent dexterity for placing screws and getting stuff of my harness.


tradguy


Oct 24, 2002, 12:09 PM
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I like to go with layers also, but I use a trigger-mit shell glove as the outer layer over a thicker or thinner under layer depending upon how cold it is. If it's pretty warm, single pitch, close to the car kind of ice climbing, I will ditch the outer layer completely, and just go with something like the BD dry-tool glove. Just be sure your outer shell gloves/mits are snugly connected to your jacket or wrist, so you don't lose one if you drop it. Oh, and I guess I like to use the BD Android leash so I can just unclip it from the tool and leave it around my wrist when I put in screws.


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