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tjfox87


Feb 7, 2008, 2:36 PM
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What shoes to buy?
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Hey everyone, I've been bouldering for a while, probably 2 months, and I've been wearing 5.10 Anasazi, and I would like something a bit more aggressive. I was looking at the 5.10 Jet 7, Scarpa Booster, Scarpa Mago, Scarpa Stix, because they look pretty aggressive. I have tried the Solutions, and they just didn't fit my feet well. So if you have any other suggestions I'm open to them. I really like the ease of velcro but I will go to laces if need be, I don't want to though. Thanks for all your help.---Todd


Go-Devil


Feb 10, 2008, 6:26 AM
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buy shoes that fit your foot the best...
good fit = better climb


miavzero


Feb 10, 2008, 7:10 AM
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madrock super locos


ja1484


Feb 10, 2008, 7:39 AM
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The one's that go on your feet are pretty good I hear.


onarunning


Feb 11, 2008, 6:15 PM
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Scarpas are nice.


dudemanbu


Feb 11, 2008, 6:25 PM
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honestly, aggressive shoes aren't really going to help you that much unless you're climbing really steep stuff at at least a moderate level. If i were you, i would climb in your anasazis until they wear out, and then invest in a new pair. By that time, your footwork will have improved significantly, and you'll benefit from your new shoes even more. (not to mention that you won't wear them out as quickly).


123mardog


Feb 11, 2008, 6:52 PM
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it really depends on what level you are bouldering at in my opinion. I think that only at really difficult problems are very aggresive shoes nessecary. I boulder with moccasyms which are not an aggresive shoe. If you want an agressive shoe though perhaps the la sportiva venom (slipper) or the evolv pontas (velcro). just two of many possibilities


flint


Feb 11, 2008, 7:18 PM
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tjfox87 wrote:
Hey everyone, I've been bouldering for a while, probably 2 months, and I've been wearing 5.10 Anasazi, and I would like something a bit more aggressive. I was looking at the 5.10 Jet 7, Scarpa Booster, Scarpa Mago, Scarpa Stix, because they look pretty aggressive. I have tried the Solutions, and they just didn't fit my feet well. So if you have any other suggestions I'm open to them. I really like the ease of velcro but I will go to laces if need be, I don't want to though. Thanks for all your help.---Todd

Climb in the Anasazi until you can not stand the smell any longer... then you will know that the shoes do not make the climber....

Then buy some scarpa's.... they are really really nice shoes...

Then watch Dosage IV and realize that Sharma wears Anasazi's and buy another pair cause you still think that the shoes make the climber...

Then buy a rack and change your world with some crack...

j-


asiaclimber


Feb 11, 2008, 7:47 PM
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123mardog wrote:
it really depends on what level you are bouldering at in my opinion. I think that only at really difficult problems are very aggresive shoes nessecary. I boulder with moccasyms which are not an aggresive shoe. If you want an agressive shoe though perhaps the la sportiva venom (slipper) or the evolv pontas (velcro). just two of many possibilities

just a note on this... I have 2 pairs of shoes the Evolv Pontas and the 5 ten Mocasyms i actually prefer my Mocs to my pontas for Bouldering... the Pontas are not an aggresive shoe they are actually listed as an all around shoe... i would say that the Pontas are pretty much going to have the same feel as the Anasazi the pontas are a much more sensitive shoe though. I think the Mocasym is a great choice for a beginner climber if you fit them right aka really small because they will make your feet stronger and after wearing them for a few years you will realize that they are a great shoe even for an advanced climber and if you dont believe that i will rerefrence Dosage IV in the beggining when chris is in Squamish, B.C. climbing dreamcatcher 5.14 d wearing Moc's.


(This post was edited by asiaclimber on Feb 11, 2008, 11:33 PM)


tjfox87


Feb 12, 2008, 9:03 PM
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i've only been bouldering for 2 months, but I've been climbing for 3 years, so i'm not new.


dlintz


Feb 12, 2008, 9:21 PM
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asiaclimber wrote:
just a note on this... I have 2 pairs of shoes the Evolv Pontas and the 5 ten Mocasyms i actually prefer my Mocs to my pontas for Bouldering... the Pontas are not an aggresive shoe they are actually listed as an all around shoe... i would say that the Pontas are pretty much going to have the same feel as the Anasazi the pontas are a much more sensitive shoe though. I think the Mocasym is a great choice for a beginner climber if you fit them right aka really small because they will make your feet stronger and after wearing them for a few years you will realize that they are a great shoe even for an advanced climber and if you dont believe that i will rerefrence Dosage IV in the beggining when chris is in Squamish, B.C. climbing dreamcatcher 5.14 d wearing Moc's.

True. If you want an aggressive Evolve shoe I'd suggest checking out the Predators (velcro) or the Talons (laceup).

d.


c22


Feb 12, 2008, 9:23 PM
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Couple points:
1) I'd probably first finish off your anasazi's first.
2) Yes sharma climbed dream catcher in mocs. Turns out it's not a climb that requires aggressive edging... whodda thunk it? And the moccasyms are pure gold for smearing.
3) If the choices are the ones you stated, i'd go with the new Jet7s. They seem to me to be a nice hybrid of the moccasym and the v10, but with velcro for a little extra security. They edge well (but not as well as the dragons, the jet7s are REALLY sticky, and the result is that they're not the stiffest shoe around), they're flexible enough to smear, and the green rubber upper's make them a dream to toe hook with. In short, they are performance shoes that are still good all arounders


(This post was edited by c22 on Feb 12, 2008, 9:24 PM)


asiaclimber


Feb 12, 2008, 9:24 PM
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in that case i would go with the jet 7 by 5 ten or the predator by evolv try both out and see which one fits your foot the best


tjfox87


Feb 12, 2008, 10:58 PM
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I tried the La Sportiva Testarosas yesturday, and they are amazing, but how well do they perform for toe hooking and heel hooking? the gym i was at didn't have a lot for that, so I didn't get to investigate. The heel was tight, and my toes were knuckled but still were good. I was never one for lace ups but these could work, perhaps. Any thoughts?


ozoneclimber


Feb 12, 2008, 11:06 PM
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I think that your best bets are either the v10 from 5.10, or the La Sportiva Miuras. While they lace up they fit nicely and they provide a good mix of stiffness and aggressiveness with sensitivity.

My first pair of shoes were Moccasyms and I used them for about three years b/f one of the toes blew out. Depending on the type of bouldering you're doing they're great. I was living in Arkansas when I really put the hurt on them and they were great down there, lot's of smearing. They suck for edging though which is what I do most now, so I now have a pair of Red Chillis, which I love but not great for bouldering.

Bobby


subtle


Feb 24, 2008, 12:52 PM
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Obviously, a lot of this is going to depend on the shape of your feet, but from what I've found:

The gold standard for aggression is the V10, but unless you're climbing into the double digits on overhanging problems the break-in suffering probably isn't worth it. My current go-to shoe for the hard proj of the moment is the 5.10 Dragon, which is probably the best all-around shoe I've worn in a long while. I have a pair of Jet 7s which I wear for everything that doesn't require max effort. The Jet 7s are somewhat softer than the Dragons and much, much softer than the V10s. The rubber on the top of the foot on the Jet 7 is a nice addition. It is very thin, which allows you to bend your toes upward...something the V10 pretty much completely prevents. Testarossas are also elite level shoes, with a great heel and a flatter forefoot design that allows them to be re-soled without losing much of their shape.

One thing to take into consideration is that all of the above shoes are 'aggressive', which generally means you size them small and wear them for as little time as possible. This kinda necessitates trying them on before buying them. An 'aggressive' shoe gets pretty useless if you get the size wrong, either becoming unwearably tight or so floppy you might as well be climbing in your sandals.

Oh, and one other thing. All of the above shoes are generally meant for climbing on fairly small features on overhanging problems. If that's not your game, you might want to stay with the Anasazis if they fit your feet well. I mean, we know you can climb 5.15a and boulder V14+ in them, so they probably aren't holding you back too much, y'know.

Allez. I have far too many pair of shoes. Homard.


areyoumydude


Feb 25, 2008, 5:28 PM
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miavzero wrote:
madrock super locos

These are by far the best shoes I've used for steep problems/ routes.


BlueDude13


Mar 17, 2008, 10:47 AM
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So I haven't been climbing of any sort in a while (at least 3 years) and the only shoes I have are a pair of torn up Cobras I got second hand. I'm looking to get a new pair of something a little more "all around", at least until I get back in to it more. Any help?


gypsymama


Feb 1, 2009, 6:06 PM
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I have been climbing about a year now, and the shoes I have are too big, stretched out more than I thought they would. Anyway someone suggested I look at the La Sportivia Muiras- does anyone know how true to size they are? Are they a good all around shoes? I am female, so I am looking at the women's version.

Any feedback is appreciated.


paclimber12


Feb 1, 2009, 7:09 PM
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dont worry about the brand so much as long as it fits your foot well its fine..i tried on the scarpa boosters the other day and hated them


Craggmire


Feb 9, 2009, 12:30 AM
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You've Already got a Great bouldering shoe. I own Jets, the 5X, Moccs, solutions and Anasazi Onyxs and the Anasazis are definitely the most solid if you ask me. When i put my foot somewhere I know its going to stay.


SummitSnowStorm


Feb 9, 2009, 6:41 AM
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gypsymama wrote:
I have been climbing about a year now, and the shoes I have are too big, stretched out more than I thought they would. Anyway someone suggested I look at the La Sportivia Muiras- does anyone know how true to size they are? Are they a good all around shoes? I am female, so I am looking at the women's version.

Any feedback is appreciated.
I own the Miura VS`since last december ; before I had the la sportiva mythos,and i must say the difference is huuuuge. I do like how comfortable the mythos are,but if u want a mix of comfortable and aggresive shoe,i´d go for the miuras. I must say I just love them!!! I wear a 46,5 normally,and bought 44,5 miuras (european measures).
So,if u want sth for sport climbing or bouldering,they´re really amazing,but i still take the mythos whenever i go for longer trad climbs (can´t imagine myself for 5-6 hours in the miuras).
Hope i could help a little bit.Smile


zenboulder


Feb 9, 2009, 12:45 PM
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What level of bouldering are at now tjfox87? Are you looking for a shoe just for bouldering or are you planning on doing the occasional route in them as well? The stiffness of the shoes really plays a key on your bouldering experience. Most pro climbers out my way prefer the Evolv predators because they are soft and can smear like a demon. Even though the Scarps look cool they are way too aggressive for most bouldering problems and the lack of any type of reinforced heel will mean aggressive heel hooking is out of the question. Also because of their stiffness they will have negative smearing ability.


Sublimerr


Feb 9, 2009, 2:29 PM
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I would say go for some dragons or v10's if you can find them. They do the job for v5s and up.


gypsymama


Feb 9, 2009, 6:38 PM
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Thanks for the information and response! I did in fact purchase a pair of the women's miuras. I do like them, although breaking them isnt very fun!


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