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Stupidty saturday at Intersection Rock - JTree
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skinnyclimber


Feb 14, 2008, 12:40 PM
Post #26 of 33 (839 views)
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Re: [Arrogant_Bastard] Stupidty saturday at Intersection Rock - JTree [In reply to]
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Arrogant_Bastard wrote:
j_ung wrote:
In reply to:
How do you cast a pod... unless it is completely flared

Soft silicon, instead of hard plaster.

I live in SoCal, I've felt silicon... it's really not that soft.

For the record everyone. I think J-ung was talking about SILICONE, as in silicone rubber. Which would indeed be soft....

Although I do recognize that Arrogant Bastard may have known this and was being sarcastic


Partner artm


Feb 14, 2008, 1:02 PM
Post #27 of 33 (818 views)
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Re: [fredbob] Stupidty saturday at Intersection Rock - JTree [In reply to]
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fredbob wrote:
We witnessed the "tom foolery" describe by Murf. And, it was OP (and they lent the ladder to the party who climbed it too).

At first we figured OP was trying to develop a new climbing specific ladder system. Some guidebooks are already proposing a L1, L2, L3, etc supplemental rating system to stay ahead of the this new development. But, that turned out to be (apparently) incorrect.

After the "climbers" did the route, OP was back with ladder and a silicon(?) substance of some manner to mold the offending pocket. They used what appeared to be thin tissue/plastic between the silicon and the rock. This fell out of the crack at least once.

The idea was to take the molded pocket/crack back to the lab to "get some real world testing data." I'm still not sure how "real world" a fake crack in a lab is. Yet, this may be better than the stuff they are using now -- particularly given the linkcam failure(s/?) experienced on this route.

Another amusing sideshow on an otherwise perfect 70 degree sunny day.
Aren't you the guy who did the first ascent of Hook and Ladder?


moose_droppings


Feb 14, 2008, 1:04 PM
Post #28 of 33 (815 views)
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Re: [fredbob] Stupidty saturday at Intersection Rock - JTree [In reply to]
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fredbob wrote:
Another amusing sideshow on an otherwise perfect 70 degree sunny day.

Sure, throw that in our face as we confront yet another arctic blast up here.
Tongue


Arrogant_Bastard


Feb 14, 2008, 4:57 PM
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Re: [skinnyclimber] Stupidty saturday at Intersection Rock - JTree [In reply to]
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skinnyclimber wrote:
Arrogant_Bastard wrote:
j_ung wrote:
In reply to:
How do you cast a pod... unless it is completely flared

Soft silicon, instead of hard plaster.

I live in SoCal, I've felt silicon... it's really not that soft.

For the record everyone. I think J-ung was talking about SILICONE, as in silicone rubber. Which would indeed be soft....

Although I do recognize that Arrogant Bastard may have known this and was being sarcastic

I'm rarely ever sarcastic. We were both talking about Silicone.


Arrogant_Bastard


Feb 14, 2008, 4:57 PM
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Re: [moose_droppings] Stupidty saturday at Intersection Rock - JTree [In reply to]
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moose_droppings wrote:
fredbob wrote:
Another amusing sideshow on an otherwise perfect 70 degree sunny day.

Sure, throw that in our face as we confront yet another arctic blast up here.
Tongue

It's suppose to be equally perfect out there this (holiday) weekend too.


socalclimber


Feb 15, 2008, 12:45 AM
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Re: [Arrogant_Bastard] Stupidty saturday at Intersection Rock - JTree [In reply to]
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Yesterday I was working in a T-Shirt, this morning we got a small (very small) amount of snow and the wind made it FUCKING COLD!


Arrogant_Bastard


Feb 15, 2008, 9:47 AM
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Re: [socalclimber] Stupidty saturday at Intersection Rock - JTree [In reply to]
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socalclimber wrote:
Yesterday I was working in a T-Shirt, this morning we got a small (very small) amount of snow and the wind made it FUCKING COLD!

Yeah, wind is suppose to be gone by tomorrow. Mid 60s on Satureday, and 70 on Sunday. Think I might pull my ladder out of the garage and go send some routes!


michaellane


Feb 18, 2008, 7:53 PM
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Re: Stupidty saturday at Intersection Rock - JTree [In reply to]
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Yeah ... that was us. Thanks for not laughing ... in our faces, anyhow. The ladder was weird, but it meant we didn't have to bogart the route all day and made the work a lot easier.

After we conducted the recent investigations of two Link Cams getting damaged in that feature, we decided an on-site visit might be enlightening, so one of our engineers and I flew down to test placements and maybe score a mold of the pod to take back with us so we could, perhaps, build a fixture for our lab.

We're working on what we learned there and we'll post on the other thread when we're through, but, basically, the nature of that pod, including, perhaps, the angle of the flare, creates some very interesting dynamics on cams and that's what got us interested in coming down to do some research.

Thanks for outing us on the convertible, btw ... I told the accountants we rented a Geo!

--ML

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Omega Pacific
Airway Heights, WA


(This post was edited by michaellane on Feb 18, 2008, 8:04 PM)

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